Jayden M Posted November 1, 2020 Report Share Posted November 1, 2020 Anyone know the torque specs/order for the valve cover nuts on 505 Turbo N9TEA... some of them were left off This morning just out if curiosity I went out to the 'supposedly' 350 horsepower 88 505 Turbo 'crackie', with the danielson head, and hooked up a battery. I was just messing around, so I didnt even change oil, but I took the plugs out, and hit the starter. To my surprise it puffed air out all 4 cylinders, and sounded very consistent. Not sure what lay ahead for this car, but in the pictures below, you can see its missing a good amount of parts (Plug wires, disributor, Air intake, Various brackets, Intercooler). I have all the spare parts I need times 2 in my garage. Fuel pump is dead, but luckily this model has no intank pump! Would be so freakin awesome to get this one going again. I'v probably got too many projects already, but the more the merrier, plus im waiting on parts delivery Me and my dad are also thinking about selling the white 505 89 turbo we have. Its dented pretty bad at front left corner - its missing External & internal fuel pump, but rest of its there. Its pretty badly rusty, the engine has bad head gasket, but still started when parked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 2, 2020 Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 I have fond memories of the stories this car made back in the day, but Jon might be wearing his Rose coloured glasses if he thinks it was making 350HP! Pretty sure it was still running stock turbo and I think they may have used the euro spec injectors (Bosch injectors with numbers ending in "804" with brown body is what I remember was "euro spec"), but it was still running stock ECU so there was basically impossible for it to have made anything close to 350. 250HP would be more realistic, but confirming what injectors are in it would be the first step. Check out this 15yo thread - lots of great info: Hopefully you squirted some oil in those dry cylinders before cranking it over with no plugs? Were they the 10mm small motorbike spark plugs? Oiling pistons is like the most important step when cranking a motor over that has sat for years. Ensuring no water in the oil before cranking is also important which is why I suggested a cheap oil only change before cranking, but plugs out does make for faster oil circulation so that's good. If you decide to part Crackie out send me a PM... I already have 2 Dani heads, but would make every effort to save another... As for the valve cover bolts, then really just need to be snug enough to squeeze the gasket. If you look closely you can see there's a metal reinforcement on the cover around each stud, there's supposed to be a lip, but 9/10 times they've been overtightened and that tab is flattened and the mount is distorted. It's just a 10mm nut so it takes very little - small fasteners I just use common sense for tightening - 1/4 drive with a light touch and mechanic feel. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted November 2, 2020 Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 39 minutes ago, Bean said: 10mm small motorbike spark plugs? Champion G61, also used on the Ferrari F40. Often replaced by NGK C8E. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 2, 2020 Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 Mine came with NGK CR7E's - same as my motorbike, so that's handy. Dani heads have a fair bit of machining, but I've seem some of the other mods guys have done in France to make the head more efficient and I think there's some potential with minimal welding and machine work to get close or even on par to the Dani improvements. The recess that the plug is in on the factory head is my biggest concern with the stock design. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted November 2, 2020 Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 Jay, i found myself being more productive if i work in clean environment, perhaps clean around it also apply something on the seats to preserve them and clean them. You mention a garage, i'm suspecting it is full of parts and no space for a vehicle inside. With the winter coming maybe you first task should be to clean it so you can work inside on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 True, I should clean up, but it would be harder to clean it than just fix the car.. its so messy. Spark plugs were 16mm. Fuel injectors are not stock, not sure what they are instead. As for oil I didnt even check the level. Just took plugs out and hit starter, it was more of a joke since Jon said it was dead dead... but i dont know what now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted November 2, 2020 Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 Yeah, clearing a messy garage especially one that someone else made the mess is no fun but having a indoor concrete floor is much better in the long run, also allow you to focus on one vehicle at a time. Motivate you to make it run so you don't need push it in and out all the time, it's easier to drive it. Start with a trash bag, walk around an empty box, dirty rag, empty bottle, throw it away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 3, 2020 Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Jayden M said: Spark plugs were 16mm. Fuel injectors are not stock, not sure what they are instead. 10mm refers to the threaded section - the plugs themselves should be way smaller. 5/8” is usually the size to remove them which is ~ 16mm Injectors should have a number on them that will say what size it is. The only good ways to see if a motor is any good is to do a compression test on it, or even better if you can do a leak down test. If Jon said it was dead dead then more details are needed or the motor needs a thorough going through. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 Well the story is that, one day Jon was driving home (speeding of course haha), and he started to hear what he thinks was rod knock. But he says there is a chance it was just something with the exhaust. While I was putting parts back on to Crackie, I noticed it was missing the ignition coil... I put in a good working coil that I tested, and used a test light. On Blackie it works, but not on Crackie. Is there a relay for ignition coil? I have a shed in my backyard to put my family of 5's bicycles in, but it has no door/lock on the shed, and they weigh 150 pounds each door, so getting those doors on is something I wanted to do a long time ago, but me and Jon couldnt do it alone. Once bikes are out of garage, there should be room for a car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted November 3, 2020 Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 150 pound= 65 kg, that is nothing, especially for two people, the concrete forms i'm wrestling with now are about 80kg each and i'm handling them by my self. Having a closed place to work in is much better, doors are easy to move you don't need to carry them, you can always walk them there, one side than the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted September 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2022 Does the rear suspension have to be dropped to get the torque tube out? I have removed the transmission, engine, differential, struts, hubs, and half shafts and really want the torque tube before I scrap the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 16, 2022 Report Share Posted September 16, 2022 The subframe needs to be lowered a little so it can pull out the front. Mounting block nuts are just under the rear seat (3 bolts) on each side. Rabun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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