Jayden M 0 Posted November 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 It still has the plugs from 20 years ago in it, and they are black which matches what my dad said how the car used to run lean. I don't know if the running lean now will change the color of the plugs after being black for so long Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bean 0 Posted November 22, 2020 Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Plugs would be white if it was running lean, tan is perfect, black is usually rich or burning excessive oil. Plugs can also foul with it running so rich, so new plugs might solve a lot of the running issues. BTW - How’d the injectors finally come out? Rabin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jayden M 0 Posted November 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2020 Took a long screwdriver, and stuck it into the crack around the injector and the intake. And just pushed as hard as I could, and slowly they came out. I bent the metal screwons, but I think it worked out ok. I think the temperature actually effected them coming out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jayden M 0 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 The original fuel pump for this car starting working again (weird), so I stuck it back on the car thinking maybe the new fuel pump I got was too low pressure. I also got a new fuel accumulator and installed it. Car wont even start now, even after priming the fuel pump over 65 times! Yes there is gas in the tank, im thinking since the intank fuel pump is broken, it is causing the external pump to not be able to get any fuel or that I put the accumulator on backwards... anyone know which nozzle on the accumulator goes to the filter vs fuel pump? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jayden M 0 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 Im thinking the fuel distributor must be the cause... is there some way I can test for a faulty fuel distributor without a pressure test kit?, I think I have finally gathered proper symptoms of the car: When Cold - Easy to start - Hard/Impossible to stay running When Warm/Hot - Super super hard to start - Can usually stay running sometimes even idle, but either way it runs rough. Whether the car is hot or cold, for the 1 or 2 seconds after it starts it seems to run good, but when the cold start injector turns off, all goes badly. Also I can easily keep the car running (hot or cold) with a bit of carb cleaner. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Goce 0 Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 As i've said before i'm no expert in those engines, but are you sure you are having constant spark, staff like alarms can cut spark or fuel after starting, also on older cars water in the distributor cap can cause the symptoms you are describing, i've been there at a car wash pulling the distributor cap off and wiping it and waiting to dry completely, a neighbor a had condensation problems in his distributor and every morning, till it got some heat to dry the cap it would backfire like crazy, i finally got tired getting woken and took some silicone and seals his cap to the distributor body that helped and few weeks later he totaled that car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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