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Car has been sitting in my dads (Jonathan) driveway for 16 years, during none of that time did the door even get open. Going into this restoration with minimal experience & knowledge, hopefully this group can back me up :D. Thought I would share my progress with everyone.

Current known faults of the car: Driver door takes 1-5 tries to open the door. Passenger front door wont open. Passenger rear door wont open from inside. Intank fuel pump does not run. External Fuel pump does not run. Passenger indicator doesn't work. Makes weird beeping when turning key (not sure if that is intended). Driver indicator is missing cover. Timing belt is usable, but needs a new one ASAP (why it was stopped driving in first place). 2 horn buttons on steering wheel broke... wtf? Also bird poop inside the car after sitting for 16 years... again wtf?

Things fixed so far: Driver door actually opens now. (sadly no pictures, but I will post pictures of everything I do from now :D).

Already just ordered a new fuel pump, and will be replacing it in a few days. Not sure how well the car will run without the intank pump. It's a mystery with whats wrong with it.

Just a few pictures:

 IMG_3316.thumb.JPG.2674cf874a7d8fd6936be51aa5d93d79.JPGIMG_3349.thumb.JPG.6baff9a888c9fd9c275bd6c5a47752a2.JPGIMG_3350.thumb.JPG.ebf968be7c908997a045daa38e480294.JPG

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Don't even try to start the engine after 16 years outside.  Needs a full teardown of all systems.  Labour of love or lost cause....I could see the love angle if it's an old family car.

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I have tried to start engine multiple times already, but I did inspect timing belt, used boroscope to check inside engine a little, but I am not expert so I ask you, Mike T what you think will happen If I do fire the engine? You scare me

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Today I installed the new fuel pump on the Mi16, and while taking the old pump out the intake fuel hose cracked. So I cut down the hose, and used a L brass connector and some new 3/8 fuel hose, and now no leaks!, I really thought the car would start now, but it hasnt appeared to make a difference yet... There is fuel coming out of the intake hose to the fuel rail, but my guess is the injectors are not opening.

 

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Pull a spark plug or insert a spark plug in a HT lead, and rest it against a valve cover bolt to ground it, crank it and look does it have spark, also look at the check engine light on the dash is it lighting up dose it flash, also check the ecu box, under hood upper right corner i've had it fill up with water and my mi16 did not start.

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Car has spark, tested with spark light. ecu box is not filled up with water, but every morning hood is full of water droplets from condensation.

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Do you have any brake cleaner handy or a propane torch, remove the intake rubber boot and spray some in the throttle body, then try to start it, another thing to check is the spark plugs, they maybe gunked up.

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I replaced spark plugs 😜.  Think im out of brake cleaner atm, dont have torch, I can grab some brake cleaner at store tho. are you having me use brake cleaner to combust inside, or to clear off gunk?

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If you are buying , you can buy starting fluid, its more of a gas, my thinking is to get the engine firing, that will start to circle the injectors, and will push thru the old fuel and should keep running on its own. May need to do it couple of times, spray a little start to use a bit of throttle till i keeps running, in my experience engines that sit for years loose compression, the piston rings stick in the pistons on diesels i use ATF on petrol engines i spray some easily flammable liquid that makes quick movments and gets them going.

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If the car was sitting outside for 16 years the bores may be rusted (what did you see on the boroscope?), rings stuck, oil sludge buildup, just a big honking mess.  Unless measures were taken when the car was parked to set the engine up for storage, it's not likely to be reliable even if you get it running.  A full teardown would be preferable.  Assess everything and replace what's broken or worn out.

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I've started and run cars that have been sitting for 10 years without any difficulty, i've had couple with rusty cylinder bores, it's noticeable i do an oil change after i get them fired up and you can see the rust in the oil. But i don't think Jayden will have that issue because he doesn't have any open ports, all the air going in the engine must pass thru a paper air filter. I've only found rust in engines with open carburetors. Also the Mi16 have oil squirters which shoot oil on the back of the piston and it drips down the cylinder walls and keeps them covered with oil.

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on the boroscope I could see a bit of what appeared to be carbon build up on top of the piston, but it wasnt that bad. I could still see a good amount of shiny metal (surprisingly). All around there is extremely small amounts of rust on the car (surprisingly). Each cylinder has sound of compression, each cylinder seems a little different, but not to bad, maybe i'll get lucky with this car.

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If it were me I’d change the oil first with some cheap no name oil from Walmart or wherever first. Pull oil filter and fill with fresh oil and reinstall.

I’d pull the plugs, squirt a few shots of oil or wd40 or PB Blaster down the holes, and then crank it over with the plugs out to build oil pressure and circulate oil quickly.

Reinstall plugs after it cranks over for a minute or so, then try starting it ensuring it has fresh fuel in tank.

Rabin

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Don't use WD40 in the cylinders, it kills the spark plugs, i've also had bad experience using 2 stroke mix gasoline when starting engines that have been sitting, it kills the spark plugs. I always change the oil after the first initial start up, is best to get the gunk and old dirty oil out.

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Wd40 or something similar just to prevent dry piston movement. I’ve done it countless times and never had an issue with plugs. Most everything is expelled out the plug holes anyway as you crank without any plugs installed (so the motor spins faster and builds pressure quicker).

I also change the oil before cranking with cheap oil so only fresh clean oil is circulated, once the car is running well and has no issues after 500-1000K I then do a proper change to synthetic and a new filter.

Before they changed the wd40 formula you used to be able to prime an engine on wd40 - used to do that as well as it was less volitile than brake clean or ether.

Rabin

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