Jayden M Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Thanks, will do this tomorrow as its dark here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 Nope I couldn't wait until tomorrow hahaha. So yeah it wasn't that little regulator. The supply line to the fuel rail just is not getting enough fuel. Its pressure just seems so low. The outlet of the fuel pump is real high pressure though. So its got to be something between the fuel pump, and the fuel rail supply line, fuel filter maybe? fuel lines themselves? no leaks anywhere. Also I poped rail out to see if injectors were spraying anything, and they were only dribbling a bit, but some was coming through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted November 11, 2020 Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 Perhaps the intake pump is not letting enough fuel in the external pump and because of that you are getting low flow. Its having to pull instead of pushing fuel, because you intake pump is not working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 I was thinking the same, but the external pump seems high pressure, when I take off the outlet hose of the fuel pump it shoots out fuel. hm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted November 11, 2020 Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 i've seen rubber fuel line collapse on the inside, all lines on the 405 are straight, and at 30 years old is good to replace them, rubber fuel line can be bought at any parts store, buy stainless hose clamps, if a rember right, there are 2-3 sizes on it be sure to buy high pressure fuel line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted November 11, 2020 Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 Remove the old one and take them to a parts store to match them, i cut my old hoses diagonally so they can come off easily, be careful at the external fuel pump is plastic and the sender unit at the fuel tank. There is also a small peice of fuel line at the drivers side rear door, i've had to replace it couple of times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 Im just gonna replace the filter, and tank pump, just to get it out of the way, and to eliminate causes. The service manuals says to use a screwdriver & tap it on the pump lock ring, but I think my pump is a little stuck after sitting for years, because the plastic lock ring is breaking off as I tap it... is there a tool or any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted November 11, 2020 Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 Spray it some lubricante WD 40 use a big straight screwdriver on the side of the screw, use a small hammer and tap the screwdriver, a little on every knoch, it unscrows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2020 Today my new fuel filter & in-tank fuel pump came in the mail, so I installed them both on the Mi16. Started the car, and after the lines pressurized the car fired right up. Had smoke for a few seconds, but cleared up in no time. Idles at 1200-1300 RPM when its cold (I didn't want to run it any longer without a new timing belt). Didn't rev it any, again due to it past the mileage for a new timing belt. Every now and then there is a misfire, pop, but that might go away after letting it run for a while. (It's ran for about 30 seconds in the past 16 years). All this car needs now is just a Timing Belt change, and some new tires!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted May 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 Finally an update on this car! For past few months I had the timing belt off (by cutting it), but had a baaadly stripped tensioner pulley bolt. I had drilled through the car into the bolt. I tried vice grips, I tried so much stuff... and its what took me so long... But here I am finally got the tensioner bolt out by having another nut welded onto it. Worst thing I have had to deal with on any of my cars by far. Still im having trouble getting the new belt back on, but I'll get there eventually. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2021 After months the timing belt is on!!!! Now is the problem of tensioning, I have no idea really how tight it should be, and Its been 1/2 a year since the old belt was on, so I cant remember how it should feel. I took a small risk to get the belt on - I used a wrench to turn the camshafts to give me more slack on the belt in certain places. Only turned the cams a few degrees, so hopefully no damage was caused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 9, 2021 Report Share Posted August 9, 2021 It's not really fun to tension the belt on this engine: You need to do it on both sides with the cams and crank locked in place then you rotate the engine for two crank turns (in the running direction) and check if the tension is still good and the crank and cams can still be locked in place. If not you have to do it all over again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 Belt tensioned, everything put back together. Engine doesnt start. I took fuel line off the rail, and nothing comes out. Guess what... from sitting for 6+ months while I sorted a new timing belt, the fuel pump has died again! Lol oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted September 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2021 After replacing the fuel pump, and injectors the engine is running! Runs alright, a little misfire every now and then, but not to bad. Got to bleed the cooling, as I flushed out all the old. What is normal to see for this cars warmed up operating temperature? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted September 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 wtf? I ran this car this morning and it ran fine, 8 hours later I go to run it again, and its turning over 5 times faster, and I can hear NO cylinders are compressing?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 Ok weird. By pouring in a little oil into the cylinders, and spinning over the engine a ton, I was able to get the engine running just like it was this morning. Now for a little tweaking. It runs mostly fine, but it has a bit of trouble idling (shaky engine,inconsistent RPM(sometimes the rpm goes up to 1500-1600 out of nowhere), but does not seem to misfire completely though as I hear consistent puffs out the exhaust(not all puffs sound the same though)). Sometimes this car will die on first start-up, and will take a 2nd try to get it running. Cooling system seems fine, and it seems to idle when its warm at 1000 RPM which seems high. I may have connected the injector electrical connectors to the wrong injectors (stupid me), but have no real way to tell. What is the firing order of the engine/is there a way to know which connector goes for which injector? By switching any of the connectors around to different injectors it does not make the engine run any visually or audio-ably better. Its mostly the middle 2 injectors that I may have hooked up incorrectly. - Thanks, Jayden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 There is no sequential injection on this engine. The ECU has only two pins for four injectors so even if you swap the wrong injectors it can't be that bad. You can also check if the HT leads are properly connected to the distributor cap, I had a problem with that just yesterday and the engine actually managed to ran better with the lead completely disconnected. That beign said my car has no lambda, yours probably doesn't react the same way if they are misfires. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted September 15, 2021 Report Share Posted September 15, 2021 I had my injectors mixed i got a wiring diagram and read the numbers for the wires are printed in the wires insulation and got them straight, there are 2 circuits its aprobelm only if you mix them on the odd cilinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted September 17, 2021 Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 Ah man, even the MI16 has the cheap two channel injector circuits? It thought that was an XU9J2 issue only. "storing" the charge next to a closed intake valve sounds a tad hokey to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted September 17, 2021 Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 It's still better thant the L-Jetronic using ony one channel. Also the spray pattern isn't optimised for two intake valves, the XU9JA 8v engine is using the exact same injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted September 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 So right now my biggest issue is actually compression... When I go to start the car after its properly cooled down, there is like a 33% chance that at least 1 cylinder will not have compression. Usually it starts out where all 4 cylinders are without compression, and 2 or 3 cylinders will start compressing as the engine spins over, however usually there is a stubborn cylinder that wont compress. So typically i'd just wait until the next day to mess with this car, hoping they magically start compressing again, and sometimes I get lucky the next day with all four compressing. Â Any idea what in the world could be causing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 Did you change the oil and filter? I've had valves sticking on peugeot TU engines, you can hear a miss at idle but it clears up in higher rpm. That usaly happens on engines that have been seeting for years. change the oil and run the engine for prolonged periods the oil need to worm up and pump up the hydraulic lifters, it will get worse before it gets better, but eventually with longer runnings and drives when the engine is under load it will clear up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted September 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 I have recently changed oil & filter. I am feeling like it is piston rings that are not sealing. I have not taken it past 3K rpm - am to scared lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted September 23, 2021 Report Share Posted September 23, 2021 You can perform a leak down test or just add compressed air to the cylinders one by one when they are at tdc and you can hear where the air is coming out, intake, exhaust or oil cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 The car for past few days has reliably had compression - Thank goodness, HOWEVER.... A problem I have had the entire time with driving this car is, sometimes the car will not rev up - Even in neutral it will not go past 2000 RPM. And it will misfire about half of the cylinders during the time while this problem is occurring. Also just letting the car idle in neutral it will randomly rev itself up to 2000+ RPM, Even does this while driving sometimes.  It sort of seems like when the engine is cold this issue is less likely to occur. Any ideas of what I should check or a cause? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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