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Joe's '91 405 Mi16...

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Ok guys, spent the last several hours at the garage...here's where I'm at...

Just to recreate the scenario of what seemingly fixed the car last time, I put the old rotor back on with the new distributor. No change. So with new plugs, new cap and either new or old rotor, still stumbling at times, and then running fine at times. Maybe it was just a coincidence that the car ran fine for a week when I last replaced the cap, and the wires are having intermittent arcing issues or are just plain worn out. It seems that is all it can be, since that is the one thing I did not replace. They are now on order...

Thougths?

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Try the insulation tape method, it's worked for years for me, get some better quality vinyl insulation tape, wrap it tight from the cable over the silicone boot 50% overlap all the way down to inside the spark plug hole on the boot. Try a spark plug for fit on the boot if it fits loosely try one more layer of thigh isolation tap if is still loose i've used O rings on the spark plug groves. Do it on all 4 and try it, you also need to try it driving low rpm high load. if it splatters or misfires then you may have a bad spark plug. Try this, it's worked for me always, insulation tape is cheap.

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Thanks guys, I will try wrapping them with electrical tape just until my new spark plug wires arrive. I have not tested the codes yet, will be doing that this coming week. Good advice guys, keep it coming, I will take all the help and guidance I can get with this car…

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Update time...

Wrapping the spark plugs wires didn't help, but my new set should be arriving by the end of this week, so fingers crossed on them fixing the stumbling issue...

Re. the on/off CEL and idle surging, I have not been able to successfully check the codes. I am following the directions as I understand them, but my CEL just stays on the entire time? No idea what I'm doing wrong as it seems very straight forward...

As far as progress today, cleaned up the fog lights in their bezels and re-installed, and a good friend came over and we aligned the car, at least it now tracks straight again with all the new suspension work...

 

 

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Joe, sorry to hear that, are your wires right way on the distributor cap, i've come across cap that was marked wrong, Peugeot counts its cylinders from the gearbox towards the timing belt, every other manufacturer that other way around. About getting the codes, only two possibility, wrong wire or you are counting to fast, as memory serves you need to hold the wire connected to ground 30 seconds and it will begin, i've made me a extended cable with alligator clip for ground, paper clip on the connector side and a moment switch on the other side. That way i can seat down in the driver's seat and have good view of the check engine and little engine symbol so i can count the blanks.

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Goce, wires have to be on right, otherwise the car wouldn't really run right at all, would it? I mean, the car will run fine, then run like crap and hesitate/stumble, etc.

My new spark plug wires came in today and I installed them, but to no avail, exact same problems...got an O2 sensor on order, hoping that might be it...at this point I'm just throwing parts at it, which, while unscientific, is not an entirely bad thing since parts are cheap, and many things on the car are probably near the end of their life cycle anyways...

Have an appt. this weekend with my mechanic, maybe he can figure out how to pull the code...

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The Mi16 uses waste spark ignition as many cars of its era, if you are one lead off there is still chance it will run but you will notice it, can you explain the " hesitate/stumble, etc" , when it started, did it do it when it's cold, or starts when it idles down, can you drive it and tell as is it more pronounced at low rpm or higher rpm, have you driven it more than 45 min so the engine can clean off the spark plugs. Those engines are not that problematic, there is something simple that we are missing here.

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I seem to remember the Mi-16 had a temp sensor, and it’s plug could cause running issues...  Replacing sensor and verifying connector and wires were good would make a big difference - But hopefully Savo can weigh in on details.

What kind of idle control valve does the Mi-16 use?  That would be my only other guess.

Rabin

 

 

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That is why i ask when it acts up, there are two manufactures of ECU temp sensors, bitron and bosch, i've personally never had a bosch fail on me, but the others have, but then i throw a code and is running rich, it stinks of fuel. Mi16 uses 2 wire idle control valve that is external and on top of the intake manifold, the engine will still run even if it is unplugged without load. I'm starting to suspect the ignition ignitor, i've had one partly fail on me as well as andre on his 91.

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Big update, got the code figured out, after realizing the ground had to be released. It was code 52, so oxygen sensor, which many here had predicted. Not sure this will resolve all my running issues, but it's a start...just waiting on the part to arrive now...

In the meantime, replaced my passenger side sway bar bushings (driver's side on the way in the mail), boy were these shot...

Followed up with cleaning up the wheel wells and a powerwash...

 

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Latest update, dash is out. I had a conversation with Savo about this, and he confirmed that what we're looking at here in these photos is the way they wrapped these harnesses from the factory. I'm still in shock over this. I've mostly dealt with japanese cars, and their taping is pretty great...

One of the main reasons I wanted to pull the dash was due to the look of the wiring/taping, because it was easy to assume someone else had been in there poking around and doing something. Well, I think it is safe to assume that is not the case now, so I'm a bit relieved for that part...

However, the left and right side grommets that the dash connects through the firewall are missing, so it does seem like the dash has been out before. Would love more thoughts on this...

Edit: ignore the zip ties, I had to reconnect the harness to drive the car home...

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I don't see the reason why you've pulled the dash out, the engine has its own separate wiring loom, and can run independent of the chassis, all it needs 2 power wires and couple of grounds, if you are suspecting loose connection check the connectors between the engine and chassis loom located behind the drivers headlight, they are not sealed connectors, and can cause issues on higher mileage or rusty cars, that was one of the changes peugeot made on the series 2 of the 405 the use sealed connectors in the engine bay. As far your wiring looks factory to me, i've often found the boot that goes to the engine bay to be pulled out. Over the years people run all kind of accessories, stereos and that is the only place to gain access, so no big surprise that is pulled out. There are two ground points that are known to rust and course electrical problems on the interior.

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Goce, dash was pulled because upon looking underneath I saw what looked like non-factory taping and I wanted to see who/what may have gone on under there at some point in time...

Savo pretty much told me that the taping quality that you see in the photos above is factory. This still shocks me. As I told him, I'm used to japanese cars, where the taping is pretty much perfect, even Lotus does a good job. But apparently this is how Peugeot wrapped their harnesses back then...

The good news is I had a good look around once the dash and harness were out, nothing seemed to have ever been messed with, so I gave everything a good cleaning and reassembled...

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