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My 404C is insured for $70,000 with Hagerty, no appraisal needed, but you do have to send photos in and the value has to be aligned with their valuation guide.  I plan to raise it a bit this fall when renewing, as it approaches roadworthiness.

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29 minutes ago, Mike T said:

My 404C is insured for $70,000 with Hagerty, no appraisal needed, but you do have to send photos in and the value has to be aligned with their valuation guide.  I plan to raise it a bit this fall when renewing, as it approaches roadworthiness.

Correct Mike, same here, we also had to send in photos. Although I'm not insured at 70K, ha...

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Washed the car today, plan to drive it a good bit tomorrow and also going to pick up an infrared thermometer to check the oil pan temps. and see if the gauge is off...

 

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I'm sure insurance works different than here, but last time i had an accident with my Mi16x4, the insurance company valued my car at 500 euros, i'm pretty easy going i told them i'm paying close to that in registration and insurance every year, their answer was so what is a 91 POS. That is disrespectful, and from talking to others they intensonaly what to cause conflicts so people don't want to deal with them. So i went to the main peugeot dealer and got me an estimate for them to do the repairs with all OEM new parts and their high hourly labor. The estimate was like 2500 euros and because i told them the situation they wrote estimated vehicle value before accident at 15K and after at 10K. That got the insurance adjusters attention and they payed to fix it but not at the main dealer.

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In France the super low first offer for old cars is a common trick, when it works they save money and time as the car is scrapped and the case quickly closed (plus you probably insure a newer car that is more expensive). Only if you're clearly unwilling to settle for so little will they transfer your case to "someone who know old cars" and at this point you can expect to get most of the money that is rightfully yours.

Having the car insured with regular appraisal or agreed value is a good way to avoid all this drama.

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Yeah, in the US, classic cars almost have to be on a specialty or stated vale policy with a company like Haggerty or Grundy. In the case of my Mi16 and the MR2's, they are in that weird camp of being too new to be classics, but also too old to have any value, and regular insurance companies basically value the cars for scrap money. Quite sad. 

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Same here, my daily driver is a 309 turbo diesel from 1990 and it can only be insured for a bit much than the bare minimum. My 309 GTI16 from 1991 is insured as a classic car but I can't use it to go to work and I also need to have a "normal" car insured wich in my case is 1 year older!

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Went to get an infrared thermometer yesterday at harbor freight but they were out of them. Will be stopping back this week to grab one. Haven't driven the car but will be taking it out today to run some errands and get some real miles on the car. Funny, I seem to drive my cars less the more sorted they are...

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Took the car for a long ride tonight, probably about 80 miles. Ran fantastic, and the oil temp. held steady at about 205-210 pretty much the entire ride. The outside temp. was a bit cooler, around 60 degrees, and was cruising mostly in 5th around 65-70 mph, with the occasional downshift and accelerating up through the revs. Posted some photos of the gauges on the way home. Coolant was around 175 the entire ride, started creeping up as I was idling to take the photos, oil was again pretty much right in the middle between 190 and the next dash (assumed to be around 228), so around 210ish...

 

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I think your oil temps are fine - you're running a decent synthetic and it's running under 300F - I confirmed with multiple sites referencing 220-240F being optimal for oil temps as that's when the oil has it's best characteristics and the least amount of parasitic loss.  Over 240F is still safe to 300 - they just advise that extended temp intervals shorten the life of the oil.

Initially I thought the car was reading incorrectly, but now it's probably best that it's not!  Still worthwhile knowing what temps you are hitting for sure, but it's likely by design.

Fun fact:  I was curious why my BMW had no temp gauges or anything - turns out BMW didn't want people to see how hot the car was running by design!  It has an electronic water pump and tstat so it's constantly varying temp for whatever is ideal for the conditions of the car is experiencing.  If they had a gauge / readout people would freak out over the wildly varying temps as well as how hot they actually ran the engine sometimes.

Rabin

 

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It's true that at the time it wasn't your average engine:

Two oil sprays for each piston, full floating piston pins, (forged) rods located by the pistons, 8 counterweight crank, harmonic damper pulley, waffle pattern cylinder liners, extra ribbed (aluminum) block, bottom end strenghtening plate, magnesium valve cover on top of a 16v head inspired by the 205 Turbo 16 evo.

Even today not all of this is common practice.

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18 hours ago, Bean said:

I think your oil temps are fine - you're running a decent synthetic and it's running under 300F - I confirmed with multiple sites referencing 220-240F being optimal for oil temps as that's when the oil has it's best characteristics and the least amount of parasitic loss.  Over 240F is still safe to 300 - they just advise that extended temp intervals shorten the life of the oil.

Initially I thought the car was reading incorrectly, but now it's probably best that it's not!  Still worthwhile knowing what temps you are hitting for sure, but it's likely by design.

Fun fact:  I was curious why my BMW had no temp gauges or anything - turns out BMW didn't want people to see how hot the car was running by design!  It has an electronic water pump and tstat so it's constantly varying temp for whatever is ideal for the conditions of the car is experiencing.  If they had a gauge / readout people would freak out over the wildly varying temps as well as how hot they actually ran the engine sometimes.

Rabin

 

Rabin, good info., I found the same regarding safe (and even preferred) oil temperatures. I'm chalking my more recently higher temps. to it being summer, until I can get a hold of an infrared thermometer (stopped at harbor freight again today, still out of them). Going to take another long drive tonight.

And you're right re. car companies not putting these gauges in anymore, as it would def. wig out the average driver...well, if they bothered to pay any attention to them in the first place...

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Took another long drive last yesterday, oil temps. were a little higher this time, closer to the dash after 190 (assumed to be around 228) prob. running around 220ish for the duration of the drive. Higher than the other night, but again still a "good" temperature to run at... 

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On 9/16/2020 at 2:18 PM, SRDT said:

It's true that at the time it wasn't your average engine:

Two oil sprays for each piston, full floating piston pins, (forged) rods located by the pistons, 8 counterweight crank, harmonic damper pulley, waffle pattern cylinder liners, extra ribbed (aluminum) block, bottom end strenghtening plate, magnesium valve cover on top of a 16v head inspired by the 205 Turbo 16 evo.

Even today not all of this is common practice.

Thanks for this info., I did not know all of this, so glad to be here with you guys, it is a wealth of knowledge for sure...

It's also cool to have another car in my stable where the motor has so much racing pedigree (the Esprit and S2000 have it in droves, whereas the MR2's and even the Evora to some extent have more pedestrian motor designs)...

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If it's racing pedigrée you want there is even more: the 206 WRC won the WRC championship in 2000, 2001 and 2002.

There was quite a bit of freedom to choose the base engine from the rallye car, enough in fact to ditch the 2.0 EW10J4 from the road car and use the XU9J4 instead.

The Lotus engine won in 81 and the Toyota engine in 93,94 and 99.

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Joe, that is very good thing about any X05 peugeot, maintain it as intended and they always work, the reliability is excellent. Now days in my country most popular peugeot are X07 and x08 series and people that have owned older series are saying new ones just don't have the reliability and some of the cheaper models have lost that driving dynamis that good car has. I've recently been looking to buy a diesel engine and people that have a good X05 peugeot do not want to sell them especially if they are diesel.

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On 9/23/2020 at 3:40 PM, Goce said:

Joe, that is very good thing about any X05 peugeot, maintain it as intended and they always work, the reliability is excellent. Now days in my country most popular peugeot are X07 and x08 series and people that have owned older series are saying new ones just don't have the reliability and some of the cheaper models have lost that driving dynamis that good car has. I've recently been looking to buy a diesel engine and people that have a good X05 peugeot do not want to sell them especially if they are diesel.

Ha, that's nice to hear, but I won't allow myself to ever think a 30 year old french car with 170K miles could ever be THAT reliable...but I agree with you that a well maintained and serviced car (which mine certainly is now) certainly will keep you from breaking down too much...either way, I'm very pleased with where the car is at now, so hopefully just little stuff going forward...

Until of course next year when I have to re-do the timing belt again since the cam seals decided to start leaking on me not long after this last belt...

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Damn - You’re not having any luck with seals!

I have to say I was very impressed with the pace you had getting it sorted - well done.

Curious what the winter car plan is?  Will the Mi16 get stored or will it get some winter tires?  :)

My R on Hakka9 studded tires is the best winter car I’ve ever been in.

Rabin

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