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Joe's '91 405 Mi16 (and '90 SW and '92 Mi16)...


91MR2

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1 hour ago, SRDT said:

If you can find a bigger heat exchanger that's the easiest way, but then again 240°F is lower than 140°C (284°F) so it's still a safe temp.

SRDT, you are correct, I still just can't get over how hot it has gotten lately. It is more that I don't recall it ever getting this hot before, and that is what concerns me, the change/increase in temperature, as I recall it never seemed to get much hotter than 210ish...

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On a different note, I just updated and tallied up my excel sheet that I've had since I bought the car (basically a chronological breakdown of all the parts/labor/jobs the car has had done), looking at my total investment into everything so far. I'm more into it than where I wanted to be, but still at a # I can feel comfortable with given the end product. And quite honestly, the bigger investment was the way to go here, since literally every system has been gone over now, and I have more confidence in the car than I ever would have had since we have taken it this far...

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5 hours ago, Goce said:

I've seen factory heat exchanger clogged, from running water and not changing coolant, perhaps a flash of the coolant system could be a good first step.

By heat exchanger, I assume you mean the radiator? If so, the car has already been flushed out and new coolant run through...

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4 hours ago, Bean said:

It seems odd to me that the oil temps would be higher than coolant temps, which is why I'm thinking it's a gauge issue...  I'm assuming coolant temps are all good?

Rabin

Coolant temps. have been fine. When moving, usually around 175-190, when idling for a while, will get up to about 210, but the fans come on and kick it back down to normal...

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4 hours ago, 91MR2 said:

By heat exchanger, I assume you mean the radiator? If so, the car has already been flushed out and new coolant run through...

Oil heat exchanger is what i meant, it uses coolant to heat and cool the engine oil and is located behind the oil filter, factory ones on Mi16 are usually good, but they are at the bottom of the cooling system do any heavy debris will collect in it. Peugeot makes a direct bolt on oil heat exchanger, that is used on the newer HDI engines( second picture )they are bigger and more efficient, for checking is the gauge correct is very easy, use a IR thermometer on the oil pan, drive it till you get it at constant temp, park it on a carb with the wheels turn to the drivers side and from the wheel well you can see the bottom part of the oil pan, the oil temp sensor is at the bottom of the oil pan, measure it there.

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Small backtrack, went to the garage this morning and instantly smelled gear oil...sigh...I knew which car to look under...

Apparently the new axle seals (just the passenger side actually) from the new cv boot install decided to let go and spill a ton of fluid over the the floor. Must have been a bad one. Oh well, got a few new ones on the way, I guess we're down for another week...

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Ouch, passenger side is a smaller oil seal, also the long axle, it's tricky on the ground to install, i've been there change the clutch, drive it out of the garage and i see the gear oil drip, you, should lose about, 4-600 ml of gear oil, dependent of angle your car is parked and where the seal is damaged on the top or bottom. Changing it should be easy now all the bolts are freshly cleaned, i've had to change driver's oil seal once on a bridge with 18 wheelers driving pass like crazy, just to realize the drain plug was missing and that's why the gearbox was sized.

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16 hours ago, 91MR2 said:

Small backtrack, went to the garage this morning and instantly smelled gear oil...sigh...I knew which car to look under...

Hopefully you knew just because of the recent work?  It can be tough when doing a LOT of work and fixing years of deferred maintenance and just plain dodgey previous repairs - Temptation to start blaming the car for the issues tends to start surfacing.

Should be fairly straightforward replacing the seal - hopefully replacement seals go in without issue.

BTW - what gear oil were you running?

Rabin

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4 hours ago, SRDT said:

Now that I think about it maybe it's not the seal itself that's bad. On a BE3 gearbox you don't push them all the way, they must protrude by 1.5mm on the right side and 1mm on the left.

It looks like it's leaking through the middle of the seal, but I will let my mechanic know about this information, thank you.

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39 minutes ago, Bean said:

Hopefully you knew just because of the recent work?  It can be tough when doing a LOT of work and fixing years of deferred maintenance and just plain dodgey previous repairs - Temptation to start blaming the car for the issues tends to start surfacing.

Should be fairly straightforward replacing the seal - hopefully replacement seals go in without issue.

BTW - what gear oil were you running?

Rabin

Yeah, I was half joking with my post, just because I knew since we put the axles back in the day before, the odds are likely that it would've been the Peugeot that was leaking it out…

It was more of an annoyance than anything, because I was looking to take the car on a real shakedown run, about a three hour round-trip that morning, but that's what I walked into when I went into my garage…

All things considered, I am very pleased with the car at the moment. It has come a very long way in the last six months, this will be sorted by the end of next week and hopefully that will be the end of it…

The gear oil I was running was 75-90 weight, it was half Mobil1 and half Redline, using up what I had…both synthetic...

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So oil free now, and I assume no codes?  Does the car feel any quicker?  Rev faster?  Better MPG?

Any other plans for it modification wise - Or just keeping it OE and pristine?  I'd also HIGHLY recommend getting it appraised and insured for stated value if possible.  The vehicle registry on this site was set up to hopefully become a repository of vehicles for insurance purposes.  If a bunch of us get cars appraised and valued PROPERLY - it'll make it easier for others to get appraisals, as well as have solid arguments with insurance companies in worst case scenarios.

Rabin

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8 hours ago, Bean said:

So oil free now, and I assume no codes?  Does the car feel any quicker?  Rev faster?  Better MPG?

Any other plans for it modification wise - Or just keeping it OE and pristine?  I'd also HIGHLY recommend getting it appraised and insured for stated value if possible.  The vehicle registry on this site was set up to hopefully become a repository of vehicles for insurance purposes.  If a bunch of us get cars appraised and valued PROPERLY - it'll make it easier for others to get appraisals, as well as have solid arguments with insurance companies in worst case scenarios.

Rabin

 Hi Rabin. I haven't had any check engine lights or codes since the injectors were ultrasonically cleaned correctly and put back in. No hesitations, no misfires, no issues at all, running great. It doesn't seem to rev that much differently than before, but I think that's because my fuel injector cleaner had definitely helped out in that department at first. Now that both axle seals (passenger side for the 2nd time in 2 weeks) are new again, that seemed to do the trick, the initial new passenger side axle seal must have just been a bad one, because it was leaking through the center portion quite badly. But that is all fixed now.

I suppose my only concern left at this point is the higher oil temperatures that I've been seeing lately, than what I remember seeing before. As it has been discussed so far here, no one seems concerned about the temperatures I'm currently registering, but again I am pointing out that it is a change from what I used to have before. And that is what concerns me. Going from around 190-210 is what I was used to, but now seeing 240 even close to 250 is a bit concerning, because I'm not sure what changed…

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Those engines love to rev, i remember when i first got my Mi16x4, i let a friend take it for a drive he come back first thing out of his mouth, there no way that is a stock engine. It revs like a motorcycle. Joe, a lot has changed since you started driving your car, with how bad it was running at the beginning it wasn't make full power, now it is. The oil temps should come down once you leave it to idle before shutting it down, i never shut down any of my cars with oil temp higher than 110 c. Oil cooler is easy enough to change, two coolant hoses one 27mm thru bolt and it comes out, there are bigger coolers from diesels that are direct bolt on. Its easiest to do it when doing an oil change because the oil filter is coming off anyways.

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4 hours ago, Goce said:

Those engines love to rev, i remember when i first got my Mi16x4, i let a friend take it for a drive he come back first thing out of his mouth, there no way that is a stock engine. It revs like a motorcycle. Joe, a lot has changed since you started driving your car, with how bad it was running at the beginning it wasn't make full power, now it is. The oil temps should come down once you leave it to idle before shutting it down, i never shut down any of my cars with oil temp higher than 110 c. Oil cooler is easy enough to change, two coolant hoses one 27mm thru bolt and it comes out, there are bigger coolers from diesels that are direct bolt on. Its easiest to do it when doing an oil change because the oil filter is coming off anyways.

Goce, thanks, I'll keep that in mind to not shut off until temps. come down. Where can I buy this oil cooler arrangement below the oil filter? Are they available?

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8 hours ago, Bean said:

So oil free now, and I assume no codes?  Does the car feel any quicker?  Rev faster?  Better MPG?

Any other plans for it modification wise - Or just keeping it OE and pristine?  I'd also HIGHLY recommend getting it appraised and insured for stated value if possible.  The vehicle registry on this site was set up to hopefully become a repository of vehicles for insurance purposes.  If a bunch of us get cars appraised and valued PROPERLY - it'll make it easier for others to get appraisals, as well as have solid arguments with insurance companies in worst case scenarios.

Rabin

Forgot to answer your other question. Keeping the car OEM and as pristine as possible. I have it insured for 10K through Haggerty, which is a stated value policy. With all the time and money I have invested in this car, even if I ever wanted to sell, I wouldn't consider an offer under that amount. Then again, probably no one would ever consider that amount either, so I guess I'm good, ha...

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6 hours ago, 91MR2 said:

Goce, thanks, I'll keep that in mind to not shut off until temps. come down. Where can I buy this oil cooler arrangement below the oil filter? Are they available?

I've had good luck at ebay.uk, here they are available in parts stores, you can probably find one in your big parts store they are used on all vehicles not peugeot specific, here is a link of ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=peugeot+oil+cooler&_sacat=0&_pgn=1

I won't recommend buying a used one because it will be plugged up or worse is removed from an sized engine and has metal shaving in it.

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As discussed you first need to make sure you’re working with good data - Doesn’t take much to skew a sensor reading.  Temp sensors usually have ohm ranges depending on temps to ensure they’re calibrated properly.

Stated value:  Up here we can’t get stated value unless it’s been professionally appraised for that amount - Is that not the case with Hagerty?

Rabin
 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Goce said:

I've had good luck at ebay.uk, here they are available in parts stores, you can probably find one in your big parts store they are used on all vehicles not peugeot specific, here is a link of ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=peugeot+oil+cooler&_sacat=0&_pgn=1

I won't recommend buying a used one because it will be plugged up or worse is removed from an sized engine and has metal shaving in it.

Thank you, will keep an eye out.

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1 hour ago, Bean said:

As discussed you first need to make sure you’re working with good data - Doesn’t take much to skew a sensor reading.  Temp sensors usually have ohm ranges depending on temps to ensure they’re calibrated properly.

Stated value:  Up here we can’t get stated value unless it’s been professionally appraised for that amount - Is that not the case with Hagerty?

Rabin
 

 

 

Yes, I am going to be picking up an infrared thermometer any day now to check.

With Haggerty, you do not need an appraisal, you just tell them what you want it insured for and the rate you pay is based on the amount of insurance. Of course it has to be within a certain range, you can't just insure a 405 for 50,000…

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  • 91MR2 changed the title to Joe's '91 405 Mi16 (and '90 SW and '92 Mi16)...

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