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Goce

Goce's 06 Peugeot 607 Adventures ( headaches)

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Yes - but here in Canada we don't have access to a lot of modern diesels, and this is truck country so there is potential for these to be fairly common and possibly even economical in a few years.  As long as it has some roots traceable to the PSA v6 I'm good with that lineage.  

Again - very much a pipe dream to swap it all into another vehicle, but availability might make this doable in a few years to simply own the truck for doing truck stuff / towing.

Rabin

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There is also 3,0 hdi making 245hp used in the 407 same engine bigger pistons. There is one big and very common failure that is the crank and conrod bearings also crank braking. There is Lots of jaguars and land rover, range rovers, freelanders with defective 2,7 diesel engines selling for 1/2 and 1/3 prices. They all have rod knock it seams vehicles with longitudinal engine placement safer from this more and looking at the oil pan there is no baffling so keep that in mind. About swapping it in different vehicle, it looks like it's an afterthought when installed in the 607, i'm saying that because the wiring loom is made to come out very easy and only few wires are going in the passenger compartment i'm sure with a wiring diagram anyone can supply power, ground and transponder signal to make it work outside the vehicle. its not a Can bus system.

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Today i spent some considerable time fighting with the stuck glow plugs, both ones i welded on the right head broke and are not moving even with heat or a 3 Kg sliding hummer. So i started on the other head, the middle glow plug come out with some effort but the back one again in old fusion broke with no effort, so with that in mind i started to work on the first one and with a lot more effort it also come out, i also disassembled the entire left head cams lifters caps rollers everything marked and removed in order.

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Today was one of those days one step forward three steps backwards, all started few days ago with 3 glow plugs snapping on me. First i thought someone had hummerd in the wrong plugs in because they are very tight fit to the point they make the cracking noise like when loosening a very tight bolt all the way to the end. But after a bit of cleaning on the holes that glow plugs come out they are full of carbon that is sto hard it needs a drill bit to clean out. I tried soaking the rest of the broken pics with couple of different solvents to dissolve the carbon but no luck i weld on nuts, it will move a little then break off i've done it so many times i lost count. At the end i got my cordless drill and drilled them out. Drilling them was a bit hard it is had metal, but after a few hours i finally managed to knock them out i took a picture of what was left after i removed them what was left on the table and packed both heads in a big banana box to take them the the machine shop.

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Wow, pretty challenging to get the glow plugs out. I no longer wonder why nobody wants to change them unless in absolute necessary.. The head design reminds a little bit of the ZPJ and the ZPJ4 design with the chain driving the other camshaft, although the chain in ZPJ and ZPJ4 drives harmonic balancer shaft. So if this engine is developed by PSA and Ford, is the DW the last diesel PSA solo developed engine?

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Well the Machine shop called, "your block is done" - What about the heads, -Oh forgot i'll put them on the machine right now you can start heading over. So i went there, i had a hell of a time to drive to the other side of skopje because of the coronavirus, because they are located near couple of the hospitals in the main city. I had to go thru couple of parking lots, jump couple of sidewalks and by passed the police blocks. When i got to the machine shop they were surprised how i've gotten a car pass the road blocks. The machine shop had done a good job resurfacing both engine blok and heads, they also checked the bores and main caps its all in specs i loaded them up also couple of the guys that worked there and headed back i dropped off the guys in the city centre. You can see one head has less material taking off because it was resurfaced once before and they made them even. The price for their work was 50$ which isn't too expensive but if it was a straight 4 or 6 it would been 15$

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I was worried for a second because here the phrase “... is done.” can also mean it’s shot, or not repairable!

Nice to hear that you got some good news that block and heads are all good!  What is parts availability like for bearings, seals, piston rings, and glow plugs?

The price paid for the work is amazing - here they wouldn’t have put the block on the mill for $50!  One 4cyl head usually costs $120 to resurface.

Rabin

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Rabin, „Готов“ translated means done or finished and my english is not perfect i should have used finished. The prices are relevant to the people's earning here average mounts pay is 200- 350 $ so everything is less expensive except the things that are imported, i don't doubt that machine work is 10x more expensive because the earnings are 10x more. As for parts for this engine they are expensive, 550$ for crank and rod bearings, 150-175$ for two head gaskets, 230$ piston rings, timing belt kit 320-400$ some things are in stock but most of them have to be ordered from germany or france and with the borders shut down because of the coronavirus i'll be doing a basic refresh, today i'm starting on it and i'll have one more update later today.

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Today i started with cleaning the engine block for this car. Started by making an adapter and mounting it on an engine stand that i recently made. Now i can see it at an eye level and turn it all around i can see some interesting design details, it has very thin main reebs with 6 bolts holding them, the caps are pretty biffy and the bottom is very open, it also has channels cast in the outside walls to the oil to drain from the heads, that you can see my finger in one of the turbo oil drain, this requires a special gasket that is more like a spacer than a classic gasket. After admiring the design i set up couple of tires pans to catch the diesel fuel i'll be using to clean this block. I used new razors blades brass brash stoft brash 3M abrasive pads to scrub every inch of the block inside and out, the engine was pretty clear to start with but as i clean it i started to see some familiar details it reminded me of the american 6.7 powerstroke. And now as i was going to write this thread i did a bit of looking and found out that in fact is an Ford engine, the same found in the new Ford F 150 3.0 powerstroke so be aware if you own one. Never the less as i was finishing with the cleaning i cut open 6 pepsi bottles and stacked all of my pistons in them and filled them with diesel fuel and will let them sit to break down the carbon on them as for cleaning the block i'll be back tomorrow to do one more phase of cleaning it with petrol.

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Money wise, if a shop was doing the work i'll be even like buying a working one and i'll still have to do all the maintenance that is expensive. By doing the work myself i'll have a fully serviced car at half price. If you've notice i'm not in a rush i'm taking my time and with this corona virus i have a lot of time.

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When everyone is running around buying food because of the coronavirus i'm buying car parts. I bought me couple of jugs of engine oil, some antifreeze, two head gaskets, oil pan gasket and couple more seals and some loctite. The parts prices on this engine are insane in fact what you see here cost me more than i make in month.

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Today spent a lot of time cleaning and painting the engine block i clean the entire block with gasoline in a spray bottle, wire brushed couple spots and left it to dry. I want to paint the block to enclose the rust on the outside also to make it look better. After looking at the paints i had on my shelf i did not like any of them so i mixed me a unique color just for it. I started with a white base added silver and black to get this pearl color. I used a no:10 brash and painted the entire engine block. This took me entire evening i'll clean up the machined surfaces with a razer blade ones it harden. I'm sure it will not even be visible once in the car but i feel better when it's clean.

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Oh, i can't wait to get it assembled, the heads are work of art, 12 intake runners 24 valves quad cams, then it will be worth taking a picture of.

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Today i begin assembly on the engine for the 607. Started with cleaning all the paint from the machined surfaces with a razer blade. Then i used some strong solvents to clean the main bearings, caps and the engine block. When i was cleaning i clean out the oil jets main cap bolts all 72 of them. Then i started with the oil jets torquing them i also used some loctite on them. Then i installed the crank bearings, they are made by Ford. Oil them and dropped IMG_20200318_134148_1.thumb.jpg.91420c788cf6bc46b4c4430ddf88b8f4.jpg

the crank, i also used a little bit of silicone on the back oil seal cover. Then came time to torque all the bolts, i used couple of torque wrenches and angle gauges. I wasn't too sure about one bolt so i unbolted all of them and re torqued all of them again, by the time i was done my arms are hurting.

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Today i've been struggling all day i could not find a piston ring compressor, most of the hardware stores are closed because of the coronavirus and the tool market is also suspended. I've called couple of friends and stopped by few mechanics, none of them has one that will fit. So for today i only could clean the bores i bend a brash so i can reach the bottom and oil them, then i clean off the oil pump install new gasket, new oil seal and installed it and torqued it in place. Surpassing the old oil seal did not have a spring in the back, it is a different design.

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Today i installed all the pistons, and torqued them to spec. I borrow a piston ring compressor, and installed new piston rings, i did checked and file them to spec also clean the pistons, soaking them in diesel helped i also scraped out the rings grooves i did not take pictures of that because my hands were very oily last thing i installed was the crank pulley.

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The weather today was almost 20 degrees centigrade, so all the cars got washed i also pressure washed the radiator and oil pan from the 607, the pan come out clean, a bit worse on the outside. The radiator is a different story, i can tell the water isn't flowing in it but after leaving it to dry for few hours you can see all the oil that came out, i'll be doing a lot more cleaning, i price a new radiator and they are really expensive. In the meanwhile i continued assembling the bottom end of the engine, is install new gaskets, clean the upper oil pan oil pickup, dipstick tube and assemble them waiting for the lower pan to dry and get painted.

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New radiators for old cars are often poorly made assuming that the car won't last long anyway, even Valeo is doing it.

You must get rid of the oil but the rubber gaskets inside may not like heavy duty degreaser.

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SRDT, i already run a full strength degreaser thru it and it still won't break down the oil, is thick grease like oil, the plan is to leave it faced down to drain, and i'll buy 4-5 liters of oven degreaser concentrate and leave it in the radiator for some time to give it best chance to get as much as i can. i'm sure i'll won't get all of it out is impossible i've dealt with this in the past there is always oil that floats up in the radiator. I was surprised that my pressure washer won't pass from one side to the other.

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