Goce Posted April 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 I'm not sure if i mention this but i did move the engine down from the stand to the floor to be more secure. And today i installed the timing belts, which was a real struggle. The pulley bolts need to be tightened to 90Nm than 90 degrees and for that i needed a 2 metre bar and all my weight, oh yes and i had to call two of my neighbors to hold the engine. Then i installed and timed the main timing belt and the small for the high pressure fuel pump, after this i installed the knock sensors, glow plugs looms and call it a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2020 I've ordered a set of used tires that are the correct size for my 607 the ones that it come with are undersized and the new ones are the wrong size also. The advert was wrong they are only an inch too big but in rim size  the seller admitted the mistake but wasn't going to fix it so i'll be looking for bigger rims or i'll have to list them. On other hand the engine is coming together, both turbos are on, oil feeds and drains and many more small parts, you can see the turbochargers are faced backwards at the gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 Today i spent a lot of time assembling the engine, there is a lot of parts that i had to clean inspect and assemble. A Lot of delicat sensors, injectors, fittings that took me more then usual time to clean and install them. I also spent 4-5 hours reworking the engine wiring loom, peugeot used some cheap conred tubing to protect the wires and is crumbling so i used the textal and pvc type tape to re wrap every wire, replace all broken connectors, installed new metal clips on connectors that wore missing them. In the meanwhile i hooked up my battery charger to charge up the battery. Last thing i did is to clean up the engine bay and gearbox. The engine may look complite but there is a lot more small things to assemble before installing it in the vehicle. I hope you like seeing the progress, few more days like this and i'll have it in and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Today i spent the first part of my day in my machine shop, making this repair nipple for the thermostat housing, then i did a quick repair, by drilling and threading a broken plastic bleeder screw in the radiator. And made one out of brass. Then i went over to the big garage and continued working on the engine, assembled the EGR coolers, all the hoses and a lot of small brackets and parts. The engine is almost ready to be installed in the vehicle. Today's work was done almost all sitting down except for the machining but nevertheless i was exhausted after 14 hours. But i managed to prep and paint the timing side engine mount, its cast iron and was rusty, i use rust converter and rusty metal primer then some flat black and call it a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Great progress Goce! It's a shame that cool looking V6 motor just gets buried under that maze of hoses and components... The tranny does look like the Aisin Warner 6sp auto in the Volvo V70R I have. I'd highly recommend an inline ATF filter on one of the cooler lines as there's no internal filter, and the small screens in the valve body can get plugged with debris. I use Redline ATf D4 in my Volvo, but not sure what other spec works in them. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Yeah, Rabin it is the TF- 80sc gearbox used in many volvos, but there are no hydraulic lines coming out, it uses a heat exchanger. From my memory it's been 3 months since i've driven it it was a bit hars on up gear changes when cold and then when it come up to temp it will be smooth on the changes but going from reverse in drive when parking it will slam in first gear only when at operating temp, from what i've read, low on fluid or sticking valve. I'm sure is not sliping in any gear. I plan to do an dubble flash to change as much of the fluid from it as i can just as i get it running. The previous owner said that he had the gearbox oil changed when he bought the car but he did not know what oil they used or how they changed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Volvo has cooling lines so it's easy to do a flush by running to pump out 2L, fill 2L, and repeat until it's clear. Mine was finding false neutrals, with REALLY hard shifting and slamming into gear. I ended up finding out there was an updated valve body in 2007, so I bit the bullet and bought a new updated valve body and installed it. One of the nicest shifting automatics I've ever driven now. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 The engine that peugeot installed in front of it is not suited for it, from what i've heard from some people that they had to electronically limit the power and torque to 440 Nm just because the gearbox can't handle any more. Diesel engines are torque monsters and you can feel that. Driving it, i've used very light throttle and the engine will come up to 2000 rpm and it just stay there the gearbox is changing gears and the speedo is climbing. Anymore throttle input it will hold the gears longer and put you back in the seat. Silently, it has double glazing on all the windows so i very quiet inside. I only once had the space to go full throttle then i shifted down pulled and broke the tires loose then the traction control stepped in. How much did the updated valve body cost if you don't mind me asking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 $1000USD at the time. If you found a transmission in a wreck from one of the later cars it should have the updated VB. I'd disassemble and clean the little screen filters in it at the very least, before installing, as well as just ensuring the shift solenoids move when you shake them. I rebuilt my VB in my 2000 V70R and if I had to do it again on a budget that's what I'd do - take it apart and just clean thoroughly and reassemble. When I did my 06R I read that the tranny was rated for 650HP, and was very robust. In the Volvo it's the bevel gear that's the weak point. Volvo makes ~300 ft*lbs  (406 Nm) - and guys easily push then to 400+ HP with no worries about the auto. I would think it has the ports for doing an external cooler on it?  Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Is there a way to check the difference on the outside of the gearbox, in my service history i have i note in 2016 where the engine and gearbox have been replaced and cleaning it i found a 2015 date on the heat exchanger now i don't know what i have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Today i started my work in the big garage very early in the morning and started with bolting on couple of seat belts on the engine so i can attach my engine hoist. Then came the 6 hours struggle to install it in the car, there's a lot of hoses and cables that need to be attach mid way in the installation. Who ever thought installing a V6 in a front wheel drive car is a good idea was wrong, there is absolutely no space to spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Remember that you're doing it the wrong way: on the factory the engine is coming from under the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Yeah, SRDT with the radiator support removed there is good access, and the engine has been made to come out as a unit entire wiring loom is on only couple of connectors. Removing it from underneath is way more difficult. In the factory they have special features that hold the engine and box on a stand and the subframe all at once. I've removed entire drivetrain from Renaults where the engine and box is mounted on the subframe. I can raised the body and roll out the entire drivetrain. The V6 is really heavy i'm sure if i rest it on the oil pan it will dent it. Hopefully i don't have to do it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 Looks like progress..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Well this it progress, started with what remember being hard. Installing the starter motor, that took 2 hours, so did every other ancillary but now i had lots more time and after a 16 hour shift i was tired. There are couple more things to assemble and i can attempt on starting it. To see if i've assembled everything right and if my timing marks are correct. Next day, It did take some time to finish all the small items around the engine, filling the engine with coolant, power steering with ATF and the engine with oil. I did had some leaks with cooling system but was able to change couple of hose clamps and get it to seal. At first i disconnect all fuel injectors and crank it to build up oil pressure, then i connected the injectors and tried starting it, few cranks in the battery died. Went and grab the battery from the 605 installed it and it fired up right away, it had a check engine light, checked the codes with its on board diagnostic computer, it has stored codes for every injector that i unplugged clear them and it stayed off. I run the engine for an hour until got up to temp and turn on the radiator fans and shut it down. I have few more thing to assemble and disassemble to get it completely fixed and get it on its wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted April 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Today was a very long day in the big garage, all the small items add up to a long day. Started with dropping the drivers side suspension to remove the axle, and taking the axle apart. The dust boot was ripped so i disassembled the Cv joint and clean it all up to its components. Assembled it and fill it with good quality russian graphite grease, the new boot come with some clear grease, very thin staff, i'm not using that. assemble it, re use the factory claps they are thicker, the new one was not that good. Then came the grilling job of mounting the front bumper inner fenders i had to clean out the windscreen washer bottle and pumps, it was leaking on a seal. And lower it on the ground, in the rear i installed the spare tire because is has a steel rim and it has a big central hole, the wheel bearing on drivers side was making some noise now is the time to change it. That is a good and bad thing, because of the coronavirus all the stores are are closed, i do have a rear axle from a 605, they should be the same, but i think the abs sensor is different also the bearing is 28 years old and has lots of mileage, i'll check it first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted May 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 The rear wheel bearing replacement turned into a bigger task than i thought. Because of the coronavirus all parts shops are closed by the government and we can only get out of your home's between 6 and 16 o'clock so i can't buy me a replacement part. So i spent half a day making a mess going thru my spare parts to find the rear kniles of my brothers old 605, and finally i found both rear hubs, so i had to unbolt the 41mm central nut on my bench vise with a 3 m chitter bar and knock the bearing off the sub shaft. I know that peugeot switched there ABS sensors form hall effect to magnetic ring but was hoping they kept the same diameter so i can change them. No typical french what make it easy when you can complicate it. I wasn't to keen of using this bearing because the car that it come of it had 1,6 million km but it was an original SKF made in france bearing. So did a bit more measuring and i needed to make a 1mm thick ring to fill in the gap so i chucked the bearing in my lathe, indicated on the flange where the ring sits on then install the old steel sensor used a bit of permanent loctite and machined off the tooth and cut it down to the dimensions of the 607 hub/bearing. Then i apply some more permanent loctite and installed the magnetic ring. I apply some new grease inside the bearing and used a bolt to keep it from coming apart in the lathe, and finally i installed it on the car. Then i drove the 607 out of the big garage after two months and give it a wash i'm not sure how good its size shows in the pictures but is close to 2m longer than the little niva and 12sm then the 605. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 How is it running and driving now? I’m curious how you find the car drives - power, handling, etc. Great work! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted May 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 Rabin, to be honest i have mixed feelings now, the driving experience is very similar to my 605 when its electric shock absorbers wore working. There is a difference, on small imperfections is more noticeable on the steering wheel, there are no bumps, big pat holes seam to be softer than a 605, the body roll is much less i can feel the shock absorbers are much faster to react. The gearbox is little hard when cold, like a student driver dropping the clutch when changing gears, once it comes up to temp the gearbox becomes smooth only when parking going back and forward, seams to slam in to first gear. The power is relentless just keeps pulling. At light throttle comes to 2000 rpm and just changes gears. Giving it a bit more throttle just pulls you harder in the seat and seams to hold the gears longer. There is no turbo lag from idle you can hear the turbos spool and is under boost all the way up to 3500 rpm, i haven't been full throttle still, i'm at 22 km since i've put the engine together so i'm still easy on it. I have to work out some errors it seems the aircon is engaging but not cooling, and the tires are junk they are undersized and look like rubber bands on the rims, i'm thinking they may be the reason why the steering has a dead spot on centre. And feels like the traction control is kicking in on when is accelerating a bit harder, i can feel them struggling for grip. The biggest surprise was the quiet on the inside, the windows are double glazed and there is no indication that you are moving or any sense of speed. I hope this answers your question, i apologise my writing is a mess, it's been a long day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted May 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2020 Over the week i had some time to phone around, ask around for some rims for this car. And come to the same conclusion as i've come before, i should look for OEM rims. It turns out the 607 had option for 18 inch wheels but it was too expensive so no one order them. But when looking at the specs i found couple of 607 with wheels from the 407 coupe. So i looked online for them wheels because they look slick and are correct size, and after two days i found a set of 5 rims and a new tire not even 5 km from me. The other set i found was in germany and was double the price. Today early, just as the lockdown was lifted i went and bought them. 2 rims have normal scratches, one is curved all the way around, and one has an old weld repair, the last one with the tire is brand new never been installed or driven on is from the spare tire. They all are missing their centre caps and i'll need some chrome bolt covers because of this style the bolts are visible. Tell me your thoughts are they better looking than the stock ones or i'm making an step backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 Yes they look better than the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted May 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 Wich look better, top ones R17's or the bottom picture 18's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 I like the 18’s with properly sized rubber.  Both are very nice rim designs, but on a huge car like that I think 18’s suit it better. I have 18’s on my E61 BMW with 245/45-18 & 275/40-18 front and rear at they suit the car very nicely.  Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted May 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 I'm sure the previous owner was trying to save money on tires but anyone can see espacily on the front they are very undersized, they look like rubber bands and the wheel gap is much bigger than on factory pictures. I've been busy today on it but i'll have to mount the 18" to see how it looks and more importantly how it drives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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