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Last weekend I fitted the oil filter re-location flange and had a first look at the new clutch release bearing. I need to change the bearing, since the clutch is meant for 50 mm OD bearing and the stock is 45 mm. I tested it with the old one, but it will cause problems since the clutch “nails” are too short for it, i.e. the clutch bearing could get stuck.

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I also managed to continue the oil sump. It is almost ready, I just need to test fit it to the engine with the dry sump pump to ensure the proper lining of the pump. Then I need to TIG weld the rest of the seams of the sump from the inside also. Then I’ll make the suction points for the scavenge and cut out the excessive parts off the dry sump pump fitting plate.

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IMG_20190422_142627.thumb.jpg.df11b4a566c0d3b4c47bd9368c8a24e9.jpg

 

I’ll try to work out the summary next, I think I did overthink it too much...

-Wales

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Coming along very well Wales - Oil pan looks great!  Is the welding still being done with your mig?  

Just occurred to me that the shift fork might also need some beefing up as the new clutch likely has a much higher clamping force and may stress it some more.  I've seen and heard the shift fork arm cracking - but shouldn't be too hard to reinforce.

Rabin

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On 4/24/2019 at 9:02 PM, Bean said:

Coming along very well Wales - Oil pan looks great!  Is the welding still being done with your mig?  

Just occurred to me that the shift fork might also need some beefing up as the new clutch likely has a much higher clamping force and may stress it some more.  I've seen and heard the shift fork arm cracking - but shouldn't be too hard to reinforce.

Rabin

I welded the rest of the outside seams and all of the inside seams of the oilpan with a TIG to ensure the sealing. I only welded the outside of the flange with a MIG on the oil pan.

Any idea of the stock clutch release load? As for the TTV one they say it is 275 kg for the 50 mm release bearing.

-Wales

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I intended to make this summary to conclude all of the future plans also, but they are pretty much open at the moment, so I’ll just add the things I have done so far and the parts I have already acquired.

 

Engine:

Head serviced, port imperfections removed, flow benched, otherwise stock

Engine head gasket: Elring MLS

Engine head bolts: ARP head stud kit

Pistons: Forged Wösnerr Low-Compression (8:1)

Connecting rods: Forged H-Profile PEC

Connecting rod bolts: ARP 2000

Connecting rod bearings: King Racing

Main bearings: King std

Thrust bearings: Glyco std

Gaskets: Elring

TTV Racing Billet auxiliary pulley

PACE CD2000 Dry sump oil pump

DIY oil sump with support for dry-sump oil pump

DIY oil filter relocation flange

DIY bracket for auxiliary devices

 

Fuel and ignition system:

Fuel tank: JAZ 45 l (12gal) safety tank with fuel level sensor and safety foam

Fuel pump: 2 x Bosch “044”

Fuel lines: Stainless steel AN8 Hardlines with Teflon/Stainless AN8 braided hoses

Fuel line fitting: Aeroflow AN8 “Full-Flow”

Injectors: Bosch EV14 1100cc

Ignition: Stock Coil-on-plug

O2: PLX DM-6 with Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor

ECU: Megasquirt II with full sequential mod

 

Body:

Excessive rust repairs in the rear half of the car

Fuel tank lid welded shut

Sunroof welded shut

 

Drivetrain:

DIY clutch bellhousing with crankshaft position sensor insert

TTV Racing Custom lightened flywheel

TTV Racing Clutch cover

TTV Racing Paddle clutch disc

Propeller shaft housing sand blasted and painted

 

Chassis:

Rear subframe, rear trailing arms and suspension support sand blasted and painted

 

Some of the upcoming things:

3,5” Downpipe

3” Exhaust

DIY Exhaust manifold

DIY Intake manifold

Rollcage

Carbon fiber hood

Adjustable coil-over suspension

Big brake kit

Running on E85

Cooling system upgrade

 

Some of the planned things:

Garrett GTX3076R Gen2

505 Super production styled body kit

 

-Wales

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22 hours ago, Wales said:

Any idea of the stock clutch release load? As for the TTV one they say it is 275 kg for the 50 mm release bearing.

I think it's 5250 N or 535 kg with the pull type clutch, best stock 215mm clutch for a BE gearbox ; you can go up to 228mm but then the flywheel is a bit tricky.

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This is the BA10/5 clutch fork that would need to cope with the 275 KG load of the pressure plate.  Any chance you have stock BA10/5 pressure plate specs?

I checked SPEC clutches to see if they listed pressure plate force, but nothing listed / found.

Rabin

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Yes, thanks for clarifying it Rabin.

 

SRDT, are you sure that 535kg is the release load, since half a ton sound a bit high for stock clutch? I know that pull type can handle the torque better but it shouldn't add the release load too much?

 

Oilpan is almost finished:

IMG_20190427_202152_2.thumb.jpg.ec055546071d403d1eef818cf620fb41.jpg

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Dont mind the condition of the body too much, since it is going under work after I have finished the oilpan and the engine mounts.. Like I mentioned in the 2018 post the rear of the car has already been trated excluding the differential and the drive shafts:

IMG_20190428_153315.thumb.jpg.193c6b1ec14485b8c1525198913ae090.jpgIMG_20190428_153354.thumb.jpg.4e5a454bb985f30cdd08b651f729a219.jpg

Oh yea, and there are threaded bars instead of the rear suspension, for finding the proper ride height.. I'll add more pictures from the rear of the car after I have cleaned it a bit, so dusty right now..

IMG_20190428_153803.thumb.jpg.daf1f5475ffc0cd1190a3467550c0686.jpg

 

-Wales

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It may be 535kg on the disc and not on the bearing, I'm not sure how Peugeot is measuring this.

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On 4/29/2019 at 8:42 PM, SRDT said:

I think it's 5250 N or 535 kg with the pull type clutch, best stock 215mm clutch for a BE gearbox ; you can go up to 228mm but then the flywheel is a bit tricky.

Flywheel and clutch on my turbo is 235mm. Is the older ones 215 like the NA-cars? 

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Its been almost a year now since the last update..

The project still lives though, but I find it hard to focus to just one project at a time. Last summer went nicely when tuning an stock Yamaha outboard motor with porting and fabricating an exhaust system that utilizes expansion chambers. And ofcourse this wasnt enough I also found a 15' race cat boat that needed some repairs.

Anyway, for the 2019 I didn't get much more done than what is already documented here.

For the 2020 I will try to make as much as I can, and I also changed my plans for a bit. The plan now is to keep the body and the frame almost as stock as possible, except the rollcage and stripped interior. My aim is to get the car driveable as soon as possible so I could get some feeling and data about how all the custom made components work and which ones need modification. I also changed my plans regarding the E85 since it wont work well with such low compression ratio that Wösnerr pistons give (7.8:1 measured). So I decided to build it as much E85 ready as possible, but first for the gasoline as a fuel. I changed the turbo aswell to something much cheaper and the one that supports way more boost that GTX3076R at the expense of weight and response.  It is now Holset HX40 Super, that I already bought. With the price difference between these two I could get all the missing components to get the engine in working condition.

Here the turbo:

IMG_20200221_233509.thumb.jpg.961f7ae7303c0cee5ecac7ddca9fd495.jpg

 

And here is a quick drawing about how the exhaust manifold could look like, as the HX40 Super did come with divided T3 flange:

HX40_ExManifold.thumb.PNG.bc6e9a343f14e1007be4c3f44fdd15e6.PNG

 

 

As for the progress itself, it helped alot when my friend bought a 306 XSi for spare parts car and I did get to buy the engine from it. So now I could use the 306 block as a mockup and I managed to fabricate the lower engine mounts last weekend:

IMG_20200307_165752.thumb.jpg.384b288ad3cdacc59f24cca4a4eff8ea.jpg

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And yes, I also hate the fact that I have not yet taken care of the rustiness and messiness on the engine compartment, but doing so requires atleast a full weekend to car to be indoors and there cant be any dust sensitive work going on at the same time. But it will be taken care of in the very near future, I really do hope so..

Next on the list is the clutch mechanism, I have a pretty good idea how to make it work, well see next weekend how it turns out.

-Wales

 

On 5/19/2019 at 8:58 PM, Alfanatiker said:

Flywheel and clutch on my turbo is 235mm. Is the older ones 215 like the NA-cars? 

I think all the Turbo models have the 235 mm one, and the 215 mm that was mentioned here were referring to the one that this engine (XU10J4RS) had originally as usually it is paired with BE3 gearbox.

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That motor is truly tiny compared to the N9TE turbo gas motors these came with - So seeing it with that HX-40 monster should be impressive!  I'll be curious how it spools that turbo.

Thanks for the update as well!  Hopefully have some nice updates for my cars coming soon as well.

Rabin

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Original clutch disk is 228mm but fly wheel and plate was 235mm

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You will still get a good engine with E85 at that compression. And you can of course have a higher boost pressure and more ignition advance.
Also you will probably get faster spool with E85, as there is more volume of gasses exiting the engine and in to the turbo. AND it will run a lot cooler. 
If you have easy access of E85, I would still use it.

I have switched a lot back and fourth from and to E85 over the years (I´ve build many engines, and here in Norway we dont get E85 anymore, and when we did it was rare). E85 engines kind of feels a lot less responsive, but give more power and torque and spools the turbo faster and earlier in the rpm range. Petrol builds have with no doubt much better throttle response , but less hp, torque and higher temperatures.

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