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Speedometer cable ZF 4HP22 Transmission


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How does the speedometer cable attach to the ZF 4HP22 4-speed automatic transmission?

I’ll get a good photo of the junction between the transmission case and the flexible speedometer cable.  The sleeve/collar enters the transmission at what I’m assuming is the speedometer cable drive gear?  

I can’t see any method of attachment externally.

I do have a transmission filter and gasket, if I need to drop the pan to change the cable.

I can hear something behind the dash clicking, so I’ll make sure I don’t have the two piece cruise control cable. 

I’m also seeking information on pulling out the lower dash knee booster.  

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I'm trying to figure this out too, but on a BA7/5 transmission. I took out the speed sensor on mine (2 piece cable with cruise control) this morning while removing the clutch master. I am planning on gettin a one piece speedo cable for mine and not bothering with the cruise control.

The knee panel is held on with some m6 bolts with 10mm heads, the steering column shroud needs to come off first though. its held on with some philips heads and is kinda tricky to get around the cruise control/turn signal switches

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I’ve read about a rubber grommet behind the brake booster.

we looked at it the other day.  I forgot to take a photo.  Directly below the junction of the cable on the transmission, there is a bolt.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think I’m going to drain the ATF, spray the lines with brake cleaner, then a coat of harbor freight spray can rust converter.

I have a filter and pan gasket.  I’d like to save the gasket if I need to drop the pan to change the speedometer cable.

I’ve been noticing a little highway wobble in the front right.  I have mismatch tires up front, so I’ll rotate them for the rear matched pair.  I’d also like to change the rear diff fluid.

 

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I was hoping to squeeze under the car without lifting it up, which I managed enough to top off the rear diff, but it was super tight with the spare tire holder.

diff had a copper crush washer on the fill.  

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I was driving to the city yesterday, and noticed mid route that my instrument cluster brake light was on. 

I remember seeing a disconnected brake pads sensor when rotating my front tires.  I pulled over at the closest gas station, reached up where the cable was zip tied to the brake hose.  Sure enough it was loose, and possibly touching the chassis.  Obviously this completed the circuit, possibly causing my indicator.

allowing it to hang near the LCA, seems to have resolved the light, but isn’t at all a good long term solution.

Now I need to secure the wire better, or better yet, attempt to reattach it to the brake pad.

maybe I should replace the front brake pads?  But the question now is if my 86 xn6 Sti calipers are bendix or ATE.

 

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Here's a picture of an ATE caliper:

ATEcaliper.thumb.jpg.49ff14ce587c7322e66ef5bbcd106f28.jpg

ATEs have the cross-shaped hardware that you can see inside of the caliper above. I can't find any pictures of a Bendix caliper, but I know they have the word 'Bendix' cast into the metal of the caliper itself. My '87 STI has Bendix calipers, but I don't know when the changeover was.

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Car looks nice in the pic!

Did you get the speedo out?  No need to drop the pan, but pretty sure there's a set screw holding it in.

If you need new lines for either PS or transmission a good hydraulic shop can usually reuse the fittings and replace the hose part with new.

Rabin

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  • 1 month later...

I was somewhat under the car today.

took a look at the speedo cable and my replacement.  

The speed sensor at the firewall.  I should try to connect my new cable there, before messing with taking the dash apart.

if I bypass the speed sensor, will anything be affected?  Or just the cruise control?  

 

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Here are some photos of the replacement cable I have.  It appears different than the speed sensor end on my current cable, system I’m assuming it’s possibly a single piece.  Though it isn’t extremely long, it is over 5 feet.

it doesn’t appear threaded on the plastic end.  that Shuttlecock may be difficult to pass through the firewall grommet, Maybe it’s removable?

image.jpg

image.jpg

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If my current speedo end looks like the new one pictured, I could possibly use  bailing wire  between the transmission end of the new cable to it and pull through the firewall with the old one.

Im wondering if I should remove the knee bolster to give myself some working room.  While in there, maybe I could disconnect the central locking relay.  And maybe ditch the cruise control lever.  

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  • 2 months later...

Finally figured out how the cable passes through the firewall, found the cruise control speed sensor, where the two halves of the speedometer cable join.

i also pulled out my gauge cluster, and noticed the cable is disconnected, but also seems to not have enough slack to connect, unless it stays in that position, and the cluster is pressed onto it ss a mooring.  

I guess I’ll attach cable, then fish it through the firewall.

the silver end pictured above, connects to the transmission.  It’s the connection I’m wondering about.

Does anyone have information on the set screw to detach the transmission speedometer cable drive end?  I’m hesitant to loosen anything on a transmission 

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The end of the cable looks very similar to the method which the brake hoses clip to the chassis.  

I’m afraid it’s a clip internally, which would require dropping the pan.  Though I do have a new filter and gasket 

will I loose ATF from the speedo cable drive?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ran the new cable from the speedometer into the engine compartment.  I tested it with my drill, and the gauge seems to work.

I’d really like to change the transmission filter, but the dipstick into the pan is daunting.  Can the dipstick be detached from the body and left attached to the pan while dropped?  Or is the dipstick simply detached from the sump pan?

I haven’t identified the set screw for the speedometer cable yet. It’s a bolt?

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The new cable was easily attached to the transmission using the closest nut to the speedometer drive cable, very simple.  I completed the task using ramps.

however, I now have a noisy and bouncy speedometer gauge 

no ATF leaked or was lost from the drive.  I used Synthetic multipurpose grease, and cleaned the transmission end with Wd40.  Maybe I should use some combination on the speedometer end

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