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Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI


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My volvo is in the shop.  Power steering leak.  I’d recommend fluid film or some something like por15 or zinc inhibitor on those hard lines.  I’ve been taking care of the steering coupler, but that hidden area is sensitive on the p2 chassis.

I’d crack the master cylinder loose from the booster to check the seals, but I should probably hod off till my volvo is back.

i need a caliper reset tool before I mess with the brakes.  And I should try to locate a spare plastic brake reservoir, if I need to replace my master cylinder 

 

 

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I wrapped my master cylinder with paper towels and after a week there doesn’t seem to be any brake fluid on it.  

I have new front pads and hardware I’ll install, but I’m questioning the health of  my rear brakes.

i snapped a couple photos through the rims and I’m confused.  Are these matching calipers?  

DF2076D4-4205-4036-8636-318F9622384C.jpeg

208B42FF-58B0-4E59-A317-3DE513DBB446.jpeg

5D9F27C3-6976-46CF-BC68-6D1F845EEC22.jpeg

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I've been rebuilding my calipers, and they match the top picture you posted. Here's a better view of the whole assembly, before I replaced everything:

IMG_1082.thumb.jpg.a0509524bbec0b0d0441a507ea0d32cc.jpg

I haven't read about any rear brake setups resembling your bottom picture, though. It looks like they use the same kind of brake pad and maybe retaining clip, but the piece they slide on is completely different.

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There is a large bolt holding the sliding pin thing to the caliper..  I thought it looked different.

as for rear compensator valve.  Could I just use a flare nut line wrench, hopefully loosen the old fittings, and if everything comes apart, just install the 10mm threaded tee in place of the valve?  Or are fresh bubble din flares necessary?

I’m hoping a week of liquid wrench does the trick, because the fuel supply to the main pump runs directly behind the brake valve, not that I have a torch anyway.

Ive also noticed a drop of steering fluid from the lowest line threaded into the rack.  I’m wondering if I can have a single  line made with the threaded rack end and the pump end, or if I’m better of seeing if my local mechanic could braze it my old one. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The lowest hard line on my steering rack has a weepy drip, likely from corrosion.  

It’s a larger diameter than the brake lines.  I don’t have any of the tools to make flares anyway, but may purchase a brake line flare tool, and may seek one with the appropriate crush fitting to form  the steering line flares.

I’ve noticed what looks like a banjo fitting on the hose from the pump to the hardline into the rack.  I haven’t noticed any banjo ended pressure hoses available.

Could a hydraulic line shop reuse my old banjo fitting end on a new line?, something flexible, but I’d still need a 180° bend before the rack fitting.  I’d be bypassing a junction 

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A good hydraulic shop should be able to re-use fittings and hardline sections.

Just make sure to double check ends when they’re out to make sure none of the ends or lines have any cracks.

BTW - Crows feet wrench ends can be found that can sometimes come in handy for removing lines - they can even be had in the flared end style that are less prone to slipping as the metal is very soft.

Rabin

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Funny you should mention crows feet.  I lost a flare crows foot somewhere in the rear lower control arm when figuring out the size on the fittings on the rear proportioning valve.

seems steering hose could potentially be GM 5/8 Inch or 16mm to AN6 Banjo Fitting for Power Steering Pump?

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I’m having an issue with the 504 driver rear disc caliper on my 86 505 Sti.

It seems to be dragging, and only the inner pad.  Gets hot enough to steam when wet and rim gets hot.

I tried to compress the piston without success, and had a difficult time installing pads, so I filed an old pad down, since the outer was worn apart.  But the inner seems to drag, outer does’t seem to do much.  Parking brake is good.

I made a 20 degree angle > but the piston doesn’t move in.  It turns slightly with effort.  I turned the driver rear counter clockwise.  I think I tried clockwise too, but the pad’s tab wouldn’t align, so I returned it straight.

I couldn’t figure out how the emergency brake cable would disconnect either, but the caliper bracket seemed to move much easier on the passenger side 505 caliper, with much more clearance, though both new c-tek pads wouldn’t fit.  The 504 caliper seems to be attached with hex head bolts?  Anyone know which size key?  

I would be interested in a complete 505 caliper, for the driver rear  11710002 is the brake hardware kit’s part number to the specific caliper I’m looking for.  I bent the pad retaining fork on my good 505 caliper while prying it out.  I don’t think that side is super happy either.  But at least it’s not getting hot.

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I’m having rear brake issues.  

I can’t get my rear caliper to stop leaking.  Wasted 3 seals.

the ridge for the piston seems greater than the seal.  And I’m not sure how I’d hone it cylinder, with that center area for the parking brake.

i think I finally got the other caliper, which is from a 504, to stop leaking, with a new seal, but it’s parking brake side of the piston won’t fully collapse enough for both new pads to fit.

I’d consider sanding the ridge, so my seal would work, but then I’d create a taper.  

Had bad luck with the centric brand rebuild kit.  The one I got from Brian, made in Spain, seems higher quality 

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I managed to get one to stop leaking!  I think the rear parking brake piston being stuck, allowed me to push the piston too deeply.

the  Seized parking brake is in the driver size.  If I could separate the cylinder part from the pad holding sliding part.

how do you separate the two pieces of the caliper cylinder & parking brake pad tray?  Must be difficult with the parking side extended   

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I had success replacing the seal.  I used grease in the groove before the seal, and soaked it overnight in brake fluid.

also, before installing the seal, I cleaned the cylinder with wet sanding paper.

The fittings leading into my brake hoses are all gnarly deformed, so I haven’t replaced hoses yet

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  • 1 month later...

Bought a quart of chevron Dex II & 3 compatible ATF at a yard sale, and had it in the trunk, luckily.

while making a u-turn today, I heard my power steering groan wildly.  I’d been noticing some driveway droplets of ATF, and made note of having a low level.

Down 3/4 of a quart today.  3 reservoir refills in, I headed home after the final replenishing, where I cut the belt.  
 

Took it for a ride of the car wash without the belt. Steering gets pretty heavy and is difficult on tight turns.

i think it’s the high pressure line, possibly, I believe Ive noticed before how the lowest curved line entering the steering rack may be leaking.  That’s where my drips are located.  
 

if I take the fitting off the rack, and cut the hard line, maybe I could also take the high pressure flex line off the pump, and have a custom hydraulic line made with those ends.  

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In my experience almost all euro manufacturers use same fittings, some only metric some mix and match but there is a good chance any hydraulic hose making shop will have new fittings and fresh rubber line for them 100 bar line is like a garden hose they deal all day long with hose exiding 1000 bars, in the past i've had good luck in junkyards with hoses from other makes like Vw volvo the end at the pump is almost always the same just similar length and other end to mach.

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I’m pretty sure the failure is the hard line.  I’m not sure What size the line is, and if it’s a bubble flare, or what.  But the hardline going into the rack.

the pump supposedly is an M16 x 1.5 output, according to rock auto the hose supposedly 

14 mm Female Flare 

16x1.5 Male O-Ring

I need to identify the high pressure hard line fitting on the rack, and it’s flare.

if I could get a hydraulic high pressure hose custom made to length, with the appropriate fittings, Maybe a 90 degree end on the line, could connect direct  to the rack, and I could zip tie along where the Speedo cable hangs

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

After looking at the lines, I’m not convinced if the high pressure steering is leaking.

I may be able to salvage some of the return hardline, but I could just replace it all with new 1/2 high pressure line.

I’d have to cut the hard line, near the rack, and insert the fragile end into the new hose, securing with several clamps.  Then run it directly to the pump.

the line my local parts shop has is pretty substantial, and appears to be insulated.
 

 I hope it’s stretchy.  Maybe I could warm it up with a heat gun.

 

If it’s the high pressure, I’ll need to convert it from the m14 to 4an, and I’m not sure if I should put crush washers between the 4an or the adapter fitting and rack 

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High pressure hydraulic line really should get crimped properly.  Sticking the line into high pressure hydraulic line is a bad idea because the hose is very rigid and not designed to be compressed.

Any hydraulic shop that makes hydraulic line should be able to do it cheap.

I’d also take the parts to them and ask what they’d suggest on how to best fix it.

Rabin

 

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I agree.  But is the return hose high pressure?  I’ve been told it’s only as much as a carburetor fuel system supply line.  

if unsuccessful, I could buy a prefabricated barbed fitting, and reuse the hose.  The return line at the pump seems to be a clamp and hose 

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