NinaYo401 Posted December 13, 2018 Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 So my 86 sti 505 has no heat at the moment, or intermittent at best. It was working a few hours into my 12 hour maiden voyage home after purchasing the car. The other day I was enjoying the heat, but was feeling overwhelmed and decided to try my luck by adjusting the temperature control slider. I moved it from the top to about 1/4 down around 85. That was it for having heat. I pulled a big long sensor out of the heater core area, and broke the corner of the air sensor on my dash off while trying to pry up to look in. I guess it just feed ductwork and isn't the same style as the long one? I can't figure out where the heater valve is. I've played with the little silver box near the vent infront of the jetronic computer. I've found a couple threads on the HVAC subject: Peugeot 505 Series II Temperature Control HVAC tutorial Earlier 505 (84) heater valve with photos: where to find heater core valve replacement Where is the Heater control Valve? Can it be manually adjusted? Should i knock on it while trying to manipulate an adjustment? Is there a sensor in the engine compartment? I can hear a click around the ECU. I hear nothing along the lines of a valve being actuated. How much coolant should I have in my expansion bottle? It's freekin' cold here today. Climate control and sunroofs are on my avoid list, and of course this Peugeot has both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted December 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2018 Update: after playing with every I could reach which appeared to be connected to the climate control system, and adjusting incrementally, while listening to the clicking solenoid, I eventually found a fulcrum point on the temperature slider which was like a hair between clicks while adjusting, I went for a drive, took some sharp turns, drove up a hill, while fiddling with the adjuster, then presto HEAT. heres another link to a manual on the 86 climate control system: http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/505_my86_hv.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 15, 2018 Report Share Posted December 15, 2018 Did you fix that rad hose Goce and I both pointed out? Would bet money thats playing a part. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted December 15, 2018 Report Share Posted December 15, 2018 Rabin is right, the thermostatic valve on the heater core can't sense the temperature of water if there's air stuck in it, and that hose is higher then the radiator and is acting like an Air reservar letting and getting air bubbles all the time, it's the radiators cap job to relieve any air from the system when the system cools down in the overflow bottle, that hose is keeping the air from entering the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted December 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 upper and lower rad hoses are coming from in from Australia. I noticed a couple dots of “mayo” under the oil filler cap. Fingers crossed the head/gasket is ok. i noticed a loose wire, about 5’ long going to the negative battery terminal. Connected it to a nearby relay and the electric fan later came on. Added some coolant, heater is working. really nervous of white under oil filler cap. It was minimal, but now I’m spooked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 Proper stage 1 for this car would be to retorque the head and adjust valves. Most people neglected doing it. Some may argue the newer versions did not not need retorquing but it will never hurt it when done properly. Adjusting valves can also make a huge improvement. PCV screens I mentioned should be cleaned and functional, but short trips in cold weather will always cause condensation which results in mayo under the cap. Rad hose - maybe zip tie the highest arc of that top hose over and down so there's no high spot for now - rad outlet should be highest part of hose. BTW - never randomly connect wires without knowing what they are and how they work. A multimeter and test light are essential tools for Peugeot ownership. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 If there is little mayo on the rad cap don't worry about it too much could be reminice from a previous repair where it never got clean out properly, also some mayo on the oil cap is normal if you doing short trips, taxi's here those problems often, short destinations expensive gasoline, so they get shut down after every drive, just keep an eye on it and don't worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted December 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Brake booster is installed. I tie wrapped the radiator hose down to the expansion tank bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 By down I hope you mean level? Pic to confirm? Assume hissing is gone now then? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted December 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2018 23 hours ago, Bean said: By down I hope you mean level? Pic to confirm? Assume hissing is gone now then? Rabin Yes, coming soon, and gone now. Thank you. I’ve added a third to the power steering bracket, which I’m reconsidering. Since it creates a kink. but I now have a major smelly fuel leak, on my hard line, between the brake lines, or return fuel lines. I’ll get a new thread going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 I’m not getting anything from my heater blower motor lately. I was constantly blowing, now nothing. My mechanic turned the switch all the way down. It was blowing steady beforehand. I hear the relay click. which fuse is the blower? Any insight? I wiggled around the 20amp fuse the blower was running at one speed regardless of slider position when first acquired. My wiper motor moves very slow, and my horn is not working. I figured the horn was a bad switch, since mine is broken in half, but the light switch aspect works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 31, 2018 Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 Easier to just check the fuses visually in the fuse box takes 2 minutes. If it was running at one speed then the fan resistor is likely shot - that's what gives you speeds. You should be able to check the fan directly at the fan motor connection - it's a two prong flat plug that's underhood near the heater assembly - might be under the firewall cover though. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2018 I noticed a grey Two prong plug, with wires leading to the blower, but there appears to be more going on. Almost looks like the o2 sensor was pulling power from the grey connector I have the Haynes book, but the schematic is Greek to me. The legend didn’t even seem to corespond Is one wire of the two prong a ground? I’m thinking white is ground. Or does the fan have a separate ground to body? i need one of those voltage & polarity test probes for this project. im getting nothing from the blower. It’s dark now, but I fiddled with those connections and no change. There was a damp relay nearby 30/20amp, smelled of urine. could bad dash slider control resistors cause no fan? is there a separate rheostat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 1, 2019 Report Share Posted January 1, 2019 You should have a 12V test light to check the plug for power, or a multimeter... You need to be able to find out for yourself if there's power or not. Fan resistors = rheostat. When it fails it should default to high not interrupt current. It's normally in he heater box as it's cooled by the airflow from the heater fan. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2019 8 minutes ago, Bean said: You should have a 12V test light to check the plug for power, or a multimeter... You need to be able to find out for yourself if there's power or not. Rabin I was just thinking about investing in a probe like one I saw on YouTube. It showed voltage and indicated polarity with different beeps. Ill diagnose the fan getting power, and maybe try to jump it, but behind the dash controls and the rheostat are pretty specific Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2019 Update. Fan runs with direct 12volt. No power at the 2 prong. So fan itself seems good. Read something about connecting wires in the dash to get full time full fan. I’ll need to track that down. ill need to research the switch and figure out how to test for power there and most importantly how to get to the switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2019 I couldn’t rest today, and had to fiddle with the blower issue. i feel like the two prong connector going into the fan has voltage on both prongs. I was able to jump it, on the red wire, but I grounded the brown while doing so. I should have tried a jump without ground. i also tried pulling power from my switched 12v lighter socket, but when connected to the blower, my radio turned on. I’m potentially having no ground at my blower motor? Im confused I bought a resistor to try. That seems to have brown and yellow/green ground wire going through it. Maybe that’s related. Hate to throw parts around. any information on the slider switch? I'm looking over this climate control manual and who to: http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/505_my86_hv.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted January 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 Blower is now working. I replaced a 5-contact relay which once replaced connected the blower to earth, which solved the no blower issue I was having. the fan slider switch is now fully operational. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 2, 2019 Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 Excellent work... That resistor you bought likely goes elsewhere BTW - it looks familiar but it's been a while since I've worked on one to say for sure where it goes. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted June 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2019 Can I replace a front window motor, without removing the regulator? Series 2 505 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted June 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 My passenger window motor was running super slow, then was stopping near the top without some help, so i disconnected it's switch, but now I'm getting no action from it. I have a spare driver side motor, which I'm hoping is the same for the passenger side. I just hope its as simple ass 3 bolts and a swap to the new motor. Anyone experienced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinaYo401 Posted July 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Started my car this morning, ran inside for something while it warmed up, and then I returned to a shrieking blower motor. I pulled it out, those clips, the accordion between the housing and heater box, unclip the terminal, three screws and the fan was out. it wasn’t binding, or even dirty. A slurry of Wd40 and spray silicone, then a smear of silicone paste on the shaft. Seems quiet now. Pretty useful peugeot 505 blower motor info on aussiefrog http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/peugeot-forum/17323-505-heater-aircon-fan.html installed my replacement passenger window motor recently, straight forward task, very approachable, the bolts were right there, no need to even stick your arm inside the door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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