imaS Posted February 10, 2018 Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 I bought both control box and switch for the automatic open/close window. Has anyone wiring diagrams for that to help my installation work? And am I correct to assume that no more parts are needed? The car has already power windows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted February 11, 2018 Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 The wiring loom isn't the same with automatic window, I don't have it but here is a tutorial in french: http://www.forum-405.com/t21789-tuto-installer-un-leve-vitre-sequentiel-conducteur There is another way to do this, with another PSA control box (Xantia, Partner...) and the regular switch. I did this on my 309 for both front windows. For the passenger side it's the ony easy way to do so. It can also be used in a lot of other cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imaS Posted February 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Thanks for the diagrams. Are these now for the Xantia box? I have the 405 control box 6555e8 coming from Germany. Do you have any idea about the operating principle of these boxes, are they basically just measuring the current draw of the lifter motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 The 405 (mk1, mk2) or BX control boxes are 8 9 pin, the extra 2 are for the automatic action with a special switch. The boxes are mesuring the current to stop the motor but only the 6 pin ones can detect a short or a long push and react accordingly. The 8 9 pin boxes are more basic and need more complex switches. On the mk1 405 you can see the automatic part of the switch, on the mk2 it's hidden but still there. Mk1 and mk2 405 boxes are not the same bdw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 I understand the tendation wanting to improve the small details but is it worth cutting up an functioning wiring loom, to develop problems for your self later from bad connections and shorts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 (edited) The wiring loom on my 309 is still stock, you could also do it like that on the 405 with a 8 9 pin module but only for the driver side. On the passenger side I even used diodes to find a ground on the switch connector and not having to take it somewere else (when the driver is operating the passenger window there is one wire at 0v and the other at 12v). Edited February 21, 2018 by SRDT 9 pin not 8! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imaS Posted February 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Yes no point splicing the original loom, this can be done with additional connectors etc. Now I got the parts. Switch similar to 406, soft push for manual operation and harder push for automatic opening. Basically it has two different outputs for both open/close directions. The control box is to be actually 9 pins and it does not seem easy to figure out the connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Turns out it was 9 pin not 8 after all, and here is the mk2 wiring: And this guy did it on a 605, looks like it's the same as the mk1 405 ; or at least the switch is: http://peugeot605.forumeurs.fr/phase-adapter-sequentiel-t386.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imaS Posted March 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2018 I finally had some time to play with the control box. I found out that Haynes manual surprisingly has this wiring diagram for ph1 but it is lacking the important information about the pin numbers. That 605 instruction helped a lot. Connection seems to be identical. 9-pin control box / psa part 6555.E8: Top row pins A1-5, bottom row B1-5: A1: window lifter motor A2: ground A3: blank, no pin here A4: other wire for window lifter A5: +12V feed to box B1: touch ground for auto movement B2: touch ground for auto movement B3: +12V feed to box B4: keep grounded for normal movement, direction same than pin B2 B5: keep grounded for normal movement, direction same than pin B1 I did not list the actual directions, that depends which way the lifter motor is wired. Although this seems to work, use at own risk. I did not fry the box or car yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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