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Edit: Ready for MOT control!! -86 505 Turbo 180bhp version (big restauration)


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4 hours ago, Bean said:

I’d be curious if there are any modern turbos still using this flange?  Or if f they offer housings that work with modern turbos - Would be great to have a bolt on, and the added port size would really help the manifold flow a lot better.

I really wanted a modern small frame turbo, so the T25 was needed to run the Borg Warner EFR 6758.

Should spool faster than the stock turbo and pull till redline at the power levels I want.

Rabin

K24/k26 flanged housings are relatively easy to get. Also for my GTX2860R turbo. 😊

https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-109&Category_Code=GTHGT28

But I would need some sort of solution for a external wastegate as well. So it is not cheap, but definitely possible to use the original 505 manifold.

 

 

 

 

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The wastegate is indeed a problem, I think the only K24/K26 with internal wastegate are for diesel engines.

You need to weld a V-Band flange on the brand new housing or on the manifold.

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10 minutes ago, SRDT said:

The wastegate is indeed a problem, I think the only K24/K26 with internal wastegate are for diesel engines.

You need to weld a V-Band flange on the brand new housing or on the manifold.

My idea was something like that yes.

 

I wonder if it is possible to get hold of a old manifold no one is using?

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I wanted to do a v-band flange welded to the manifold, but finding a great price on a T25 EFR6758 turbo decided it for me.

Modifying the exhaust housing by drilling a 25mm hole and welding in an external wastegate flange would be easiest I think - Manifold has no space to do it:  https://www.google.com/search?q=wastegate+in+turbo+housing&safe=active&rlz=1CDGOYI_enCA855CA855&hl=en-US&prmd=isvn&sxsrf=ALeKk01-5KEBggNDUYEVbHovtNAzmMvNtA:1621091429384&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi5pa-W_MvwAhUIbs0KHZKfCewQ_AUoAXoECAIQAQ&biw=375&bih=553&dpr=2

Rabin

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  • Alfanatiker changed the title to Edit: Ready for MOT control!! -86 505 Turbo 180bhp version (big restauration)

Finally the car is ready for inspection/registration!

Still missing the rear lower part of the bumper and the boot spoiler as they are with the painter.

 

But I have a couple of questions for the technical gurus.

 

NR1: what could be the reason why I seem to need to adjust the valves several times with the engine just running for 10-15 minutes after it reached operating temperature? The clearance was for some reason growing at s very fast rate. But hopefully now after the 3rd time it will stay more quiet. 🤔

 

NR2: It seems like I have a non turbo suspension arm at my right rear. So I have more negative camber at left than right.

I have a couple of extra arms, but is there a way to identify the differences between the arms, without actually putting them on the car and measure the camber after the job is done?

 

Here is a short video of the car as it stands now.

 

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I usually like to set valve lash when motor is warm/hot - I’ve never done it cold so maybe that could be the issue?  If it does loosen again you might want to scratch the stud/nut/arm once set to see if they’re staying aligned.  
I’ve also never heard or seen any differences in rear arm camber between the different models, but the turbo 1pc front struts DO have more camber with the turbo versions.

Most common issue with rear arms when they start TL camber out is usually rust related, or the cross member is tweaked.  Or maybe it’s taken a hit?

I know one method to adjust camber was done by bending the cross member until the rear was back in spec.

Bmw e30 guys have also come up with weld in adjuster plated for the trailing arm mounts so that they could adjust camber and toe...  Something I’ve considered as well.

https://www.garagistic.com/products/incremental-quick-rear-subframe-camber-and-toe-shim-kit-e30-e28-e34-z3-e21?pr_prod_strat=description&pr_rec_pid=4314772406371&pr_ref_pid=4636097773667&pr_seq=uniform

Rabin

 

 

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4 hours ago, Bean said:

I usually like to set valve lash when motor is warm/hot - I’ve never done it cold so maybe that could be the issue?  If it does loosen again you might want to scratch the stud/nut/arm once set to see if they’re staying aligned.  
I’ve also never heard or seen any differences in rear arm camber between the different models, but the turbo 1pc front struts DO have more camber with the turbo versions.

Most common issue with rear arms when they start TL camber out is usually rust related, or the cross member is tweaked.  Or maybe it’s taken a hit?

I know one method to adjust camber was done by bending the cross member until the rear was back in spec.

Bmw e30 guys have also come up with weld in adjuster plated for the trailing arm mounts so that they could adjust camber and toe...  Something I’ve considered as well.

https://www.garagistic.com/products/incremental-quick-rear-subframe-camber-and-toe-shim-kit-e30-e28-e34-z3-e21?pr_prod_strat=description&pr_rec_pid=4314772406371&pr_ref_pid=4636097773667&pr_seq=uniform

Rabin

 

 

Hopefully it is just a matter of old oil/dirt on the studs that tricked me when adjusting the valves.

Regarding the rear arms, I bought the car of its original owner, and he was working at the "parts warehouse" for the official Peugeot reseller in Norway, and he said the arms was different. 🤔

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That’s a new one for sure - I wonder if it’d be possible to verify via part numbers?  I’ve got a drivetrain FSM so I’ll see if it has any mention of different alignment specs for the rear.

An easier “fix” might be to shim the bearing carrier if it’s just slightly out?  
Otherwise you’d have to look at a replacement arm or cross member tweaking.

Rabin

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1 hour ago, Bean said:

That’s a new one for sure - I wonder if it’d be possible to verify via part numbers?  I’ve got a drivetrain FSM so I’ll see if it has any mention of different alignment specs for the rear.

An easier “fix” might be to shim the bearing carrier if it’s just slightly out?  
Otherwise you’d have to look at a replacement arm or cross member tweaking.

Rabin

I visited him today. He said it was different part numbers, but pretty much impossible to see without actually putting them on the car.

I have two other arms for it, and at least one of them is supposed to be from turbo.

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3 hours ago, Bean said:

Please tell me the first drive was to visit the original owner?  :)

Yes, it actually was!

And he let me to test drive his really nice 504TI with Kugelfischer after he tested the Turbo. 🙂

IMG_20210608_150231.jpg

IMG_20210608_150027.jpg

IMG_20210608_150021.jpg

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That’s fantastic!  What a gorgeous 504 as well, and even cool that there’s a RCZ seen through the windows of the 504...  :)

Between the two of you, you have two of the nicest old timer 50* cars I’ve seen...

Rabin

 

 

 

 

 

 

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57 minutes ago, d00zer said:

Regarding the turbo flange, is this something that could work?
https://www.gikturbo.se/shop/performance/flansar/adapter-t3-t25-laby-avg-in/

The don’t show pictures of the other side, the t25 would need a separate stud pattern to work, and that looks like Volvo’s flange pattern. 

Peugeot adapter would need to be K26 to T25, with a separate t25 stud pattern on it which would be tight.

Rabin

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