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wanted!! Cool wheels and suspension/tuning parts for 505 Turbo


Alfanatiker

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1 hour ago, andrethx said:

check out this project from arun, one of our forum members here:

he modified the hubs of his 505 (v6) to use truck wheels, more commonly available here in the US

and his subsequent wheel upgrade

he also modified his suspension, this is a track car that he also drives on the street

I do not want to modify the bolt pattern on my car, and if i where to it would definitely NOT be 6-bolt holes for truck wheels :D That would also limit my choice in wheels. If I where to modify, the only option would be something more normal, like 5x120 bmw or something.
But anyway, my car is being restored, and I do not want to change things like that.

 

Regarding the suspension, i was hoping more just some good gas shocks and lowering springs. Or coilovers made ready to fit.

I remember back in 2001-2002 I bought some Lesjøfors lowering springs for my -86 GTI that worked just fine.

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2 hours ago, andrethx said:

I actually really like these ones, and I´ve sent them a email to ask the price, and if they still can get them. B)

 

Btw: Does anyone then have any idea of what ET and sizes would work on the car? Thinking probably 15x8 or 16x8 on all 4 corners?

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that's great news! if you don't mind my asking, what was the cost for these? also, when they come in, please post pictures!

also, to answer your earlier questions -- i'm not aware of any off-the-shelf coilovers for the 505s, but some people (including arun, i think), have build their own so that's probably what you'd have to do to get coilovers for your car. speaking of arun, he was very careful to choose "truck wheels" for his car that didn't look like truck wheels; but i understand your not wanting to make any permanent changes to your car, that's a legitimate concern IMHO. the gottis are the only wheels with the correct bolt pattern that i've seen that are available in larger sizes than stock, otherwise you would have to use adapters to get larger diameter wheels.

also -- if you are looking for a strut brace for your 505, forum members have discovered that a strut brace from a mitsubishi evo 7 is the perfect size (although you may have to drill some holes to attach it).

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I will post pictures when I get them yes. The price included Norwegian VAT would equal to about 3100 USD. And shipping would be on top of that. 

 

It's definitely not cheap, but I'm now 32 (soon 33) and have wanted to have a cool 505 Turbo since I had my 1986 GTI from 16-18 years old. And there's not really any good choices of properly cool wheels for those cars. 

 

Car is still at a workshop for welding and painting etc, so I wouldn't be able to try the wheels on the car for a while yet. 

 

Any suggestions about tire size? 205/55 - 16 in the front and 225/50 - 16 at the back? 

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10 hours ago, Alfanatiker said:

They would be really big compared to the original wheel diameter, and besides I would probably drive the car on trackdays. 

Men is your car, you can do whatever you want, but as a person who been there can give you this advace, thin sidewall looking good can make a car snappy close to uncontrollable at the limit of grip, 

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1 hour ago, Goce said:

Men is your car, you can do whatever you want, but as a person who been there can give you this advace, thin sidewall looking good can make a car snappy close to uncontrollable at the limit of grip, 

 

Do you mean in general, or 505 in particular?

After maybe 50-60 cars, and 15 years of driving both on the road and on trackdays with both winter and snow/ice or summer with dry asfalt, my experience is that the 505 probably is one of the easiest cars out there to control on the limit. And not like for example my old 1969 Alfa Romeo Giulia GT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saLv7JO1jyA&t=423s (fast driving from 3:10 and 9:30 in the video)

 

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I'm talking in general, the 60's alfa has solid rear axle, the 505 is independent rear suspension, there is no doubt the 505 will always drive better, the bigger sidewall allows the suspension to transfer the weight around more linear there for doesn't break traction quickly.

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3 hours ago, Goce said:

I'm talking in general, the 60's alfa has solid rear axle, the 505 is independent rear suspension, there is no doubt the 505 will always drive better, the bigger sidewall allows the suspension to transfer the weight around more linear there for doesn't break traction quickly.

I think you're missing the point. Obviously, my intention of the car is not to have it as comfortable as possible. Why else would I want sportier suspension, wheels and other parts? I'm by no means a show off. 

Of course I'm trying to give the car better handling and performance than what the original parts can offer. And if you think 60 profile tires handles better than 50, then you're probably not as an experienced driver as you initially thought, and told me. 

I don't buy 3100usd rims just for the looks... 

 

I think you probably mistake "predictable" to equal "better handling". That's of course not the case in reality. ;)

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A car may handle better with 60 profile tires than with 50, if the suspension is perfectly tuned to work with those tires changing only that can make things worse. That's probably what Goce experiencied.

That doesn't means that tires can't be 50 profile, it's just that you need to change other things like dampers, springs, anti roll bars, tire pressure...

I never had this problem with tires but I once made my car a real pig-understeering PoS with (OEM) stiffer front springs ; I fixed that with a bigger anti roll bar on the rear and got all my beloved oversteer back with even a little bit more.

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Arun runs 245-40-17's Michelin Super Sports on his BBS alloys, and 225-50-16's Michelin AS3's on the Volk TE37X's I believe...

I would recommend wider front tires - 205 is stock on a 6" wheel, with a 7" rim I'd run a 215 or 225.  You could even run a square tire set up on the staggered rims - the wider back tires will promote more understeer at the limit which is why I favor a square set up on really well balanced cars like the 505T.

If you wanted staggered tires I'd suggest 225-50-16 front,  and 245-45-16's in the back.  (Rear wheel backspacing can be much less to tuck wheels in better.  With correct offset 245's should fit without rolling the lips.

Definitely looking forward to seeing the rims, onlu bit I can offer is the front wheels will need 4.5" of backapacing to clear the strut tubes.

Suspension - stock struts with 15W oil stiffens nicely, but sport springs are hard to find.  I have a set that can be used to copy - but we're likely a year off from getting that sorted.

Rabin

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  • 5 years later...

It hard to say what is good for driving cause it totally depends overall and combination of things in car. My setup is original front shocks with modified valves (pretty easy job) and bit stiffer oil, tyres are 205/55/15 and rear shocks are koni adjustable with extra springs. Springs are currently original but I have sets for front Volvo 240 and rear Mercedes 124 (not sure about models, those have been on my storage over 10y) Engine has currently around 250-300hp and thats not enough in summer to keep slides in control, if power cuts then its hard moves cause long front suspension movements. Hard to control compared to other rwd cars. I'll look new rear tyres for size 225/50/15 for next summer. One comment on handling, high tyre wall is also flexible so its not ideal for handling in fex track or sport style. Its more comfortable type of usage, more silent and softer feeling.   

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