Mike T Posted June 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 Head's coming off anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2021 Lionel Hondier got back to me today and says he's not an expert in Peugeot so he recommended Marc of Marc's Auto Repair in Burnaby. In any case, I think that with me plus Tim Bowles in Victoria (the other local 404CKF owner) we can get this problem sussed out and not have to engage with any more paid help. TBD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 Today I whipped the head off, but not before spot-checking the torque applied to the head bolts by Anderson Precision engines. They were about 50 lbs-ft, which is just a bit light - should have been 54 with the metal clad gasket. With the Reinz or Curty gasket, the torque is 60 lbs-ft. When using the type of gasket that the long block builder did, the metal surfaces of the gasket is supposed to be coated with boiled linseed oil. He used some sort of Varsol soluble red spray. Maybe that was the issue?? I somehow doubt it. I could not see any obvious reason for the coolant drip, presuming the head surface is flat. There is no reason it should not be. Liner protrusion of 3 of the 4 cylinders was fairly perceptible but in 404 engines with the rubber seals, they often pop up a bit with the head off and this is a non-adjustable thing (the one protruding less likely was tighter in the block). The red spray on the piston crowns is gross and to me shows a lack of attention (why not put paper towelling inside to protect them??) and I cleaned it off of course. Super sticky junk. I'll be eventually using the Reinz or Curty gasket, leaning towards the Reinz, which is Peugeot OE and should seal well (as should the Curty). The Curty says it's pre-treated with stuff to make it adhere to the head and block, and to not use any spray or other treatment. I assume the Reinz is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 The spray on everything was disappointing for sure, and saved what - 4 minutes? I’d take the leak as a bit of a blessing so that you can verify everything… Out of curiosity - Is it possible to pull the oil pan to inspect bottom end as well? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 I could take the engine out again for that. But the bottom end was visible to me when assembly started and it looked fine. Unless I was going to take the bearing caps off and plastigauge the bearings...but I think that's not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 Presumably the Reinz gasket is mounted dry. The Curty states that explicitly on the packaging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 I’ve had this recommended for head gaskets - Everything from copper, MLS, and regular fibre head gaskets: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant/?locale=en I’ve only ever done head gaskets dry on cars, but I am tempted to use it on the N9TE for the better heat dissipation it claims. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 Not having a machine shop in my garage, I thought I should improvise and check the head for planarity. The best way I could think of doing this was to put the mating surface of the new head up against the same part of the old head. So far as I know, the old head was flat and it certainly did not drip coolant when parked. Interestingly, the old head rocks diagonally against the new one when the two mating surfaces are together. So either one of both of them is warped. The warp is on the end where I noticed the weeping coolant.... Thoughts on this discovery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 Instead of boiled linseed oil or this red spray I would use Loctite 5923, it's a sticky and ugly thing made out of pine resin or maybe pine tar but it's really good at sealing a leaky head gasket. US equivalent may be Permatex Super “300” Form-A-Gasket or maybe some shellac compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 I’d see if you can locate an machinists straight edge so that you can check it properly. A pane of glass might also work as they’re usually dead flat, but a machinist straight edge would leave no doubts. Not being flat would definitely explain the leak… Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 The machine shop has contacted me just now and asked me to bring the head(s) down to them for checking, the shop indicated that their records showed that it was not checked for trueness because it was NOS. So we should have a reasonable solution sometime soon. In the event the NOS head is too warped to rectify (up to 1 mm can come off before compression ratio starts getting too high) then the old head will have to be redone with new guides and seats. I'll bring both down there soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 I took both cylinder heads to the workshop this afternoon and - surprise - the new head is perfectly flat. The rocking was caused by the original head. The old head is slightly crooked though Evan said it's not what he'd call "warped" but could use a skim. He offered to fine-tune the surface on the new head at no charge to give the best possible chance for a good seal with the Reinz. I think I'll put the head back on after she's back.... And eventually have the original redone with new guides and seats and store it as a spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Good new / bad news situation then. Still don’t really have a definitive root cause, but the head was straight so that’s good news… Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Yeah, will hope for the best. I do have a spare block, but no "matching numbers" if that's needed. Liner protrusion is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 ..or I could buy a decent mechanic's straightedge to check the block I guess. Might be money well spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Good point! I didn't even consider the block, but it'd definitely be peace of mind to check it. I'll even offer to buy it off you when you're done as I'll need one for sure if you think you'll only need it the once. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 A generous offer! Will follow up when I get one.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Well I ordered one that's made in the USA and should be good - but it was only $60 so it's worth keeping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 I heard back from the shop today. When they were fine tuning the surface a couple of days ago, a couple of low areas were apparent around where the head was weeping. In the end about 0.38 mm had to be skimmed off to level it all up. So, that is encouraging news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 25, 2021 Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 Excellent news - Bit more piece of mind! BTW - why would you be unable to surface the block if it needed it? $60 is cheap, and fully agree. Mind if I ask which one you went with and from where? I’ll wait for your review at least. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B076ZYJPGR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted July 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 Got the head back today, it's very smooth, in fact I had to move out of the direct reflection so you can see it properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeugeotPilot Posted July 10, 2021 Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 Wow. It's almost a shame to install that and get it all dirty...it's a work of art, that. I really hope that this time all goes well with the reassembly. It's heartbreaking when you just get something back together and it leaks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted July 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2021 Hoping for the best! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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