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1966 404 Coupé Injection Restoration


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Best of luck with the final hurdle!  I will celebrate your first road test by going through this entire thread from beginning to end.  Truly a labour of love!

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Tonight I made room in the garage by moving the smart out and transferred the engine from the stand to the hoist.  The clutch assembly was then added - the closeup photo of the pressure plate shows it before it was tightened and with the centring tool in position.  The Peugeot factory hooks work on the KF2 engine with the injection manifold off so I was able to not use chains as I did when removing it with the manifold in position back in December 2016.  Monday it goes in the car - that is the plan!  Should be quick, but you never know...

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The engine went in today just after noon, very smoothly.  The long part of the grey Peugeot-Fenwick lifting bar was reversed before final installation, because it would have tagged the firewall! Since the last photo, the starter motor and its sheet metal plate and intake support rod and the two other metal plates that seal the bell housing, fuel lift pump and fuel filter assembly plus a few other bits and pieces.

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Nice job Mike,  soon it will purr like a kitten. I can imagine that sound. Looking forward to that as are you I'm sure. Would there be a way to put an audio file in your post or even video with the engine running ? 

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Today the manifolds and injection stuff was installed, along with the factory cold air intake.  Actually this car originally came with a huge oil bath air filter but it used to drip oil all over the engine despite multiple attempts to seal it and so I traded it to a guy in France for this French market one.817157252_engineinst2.thumb.jpeg.c18f2b90e526e17005f2456873f71d39.jpeg842751500_Engineinst3.thumb.jpeg.65c06226c8a03bf5771049cac452b517.jpeg1872808384_Engineinst1.thumb.jpeg.59e32649d43633413c4aa4d422faeab7.jpeg

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Monday at about 5 PM I put the 400W alternator on.  404 Injection cars, the alternators are buried down low on the exhaust side, so the well used appearance of this one won't be visually jarring when looking at the engine from above...

Eventually a more powerful new or rebuilt alternator will be installed in its place, to power the heated seats (which right now are not connected).

Alternator installed.jpeg

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One more little detail - you may recall that I had 8 injector lines replated in copper and that they required manual pigging out due to old fuel and rust (!) inside from either long term storage (for the old spare set) or disuse and Ethanol-containing fuel (the original set from the car). 

Before tentatively mounting the ones on the engine that you see in the photo two posts back, I sprayed WD40 and MolySlip Combat through them again and a few more bits of particulate came out.  Flushed them again but  I am not confident that there is not still some in there, and the last thing I'd want to do is contaminate the new old stock Kugelfischer injectors (worth $800 USD each and basically unobtanium) with this sort of crap!  The last filtration before the injector is at the suction valve on the bottom of the hydraulic head, so the cleanliness of the balance of the fuel delivery system is paramount.

I therefore have decided to have them professionally cleaned inside, however that can be done.  I will be looking at some local diesel injection shops for this service.

I have one new old stock line for the injectors (wish I had 4) so that one can be the "control". 

 

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One of the hoses I hadn't managed to get a good replacement for up to today has finally been found - at Serie04. This is the one that connects the Hydrovac (brake booster) slave cylinder to the brake piping. An exact match, Made in France.1447286812_HydrovacHose.thumb.jpeg.48481e2048364cd44c37361d6eb0bfb2.jpeg

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Could you not just have new lines made up?  I’m assuming they’d be a bubble flare or reverse flare like brake lines but that’s just a guess.

There’s a shop in town that specializes in high presssure lines and hose that I’ve used previously for power steering lines and the like that had hard line capabilities too.

Rabin

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I have an excellent high quality brake flaring tool with multiple fittings, but these are not flares - they are large blobs of copper attached to the steel lines.  I will see about more thorough cleanout and if that's not possible, look to have something made up.

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If they’re able to mechanically clean them with internal brushes that might be good enough, or chemically clean them with an an acid like they do fuel tanks, but just flushing I’d be a little worried something might eventually come out over time.

I cleaned my rusty fuel tank with Muratic acid and was shocked how well it worked, the steel looked new!

Rabin

 

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I commissioned Douglas Peterson-Hui - of The Architects Garage - in Vancouver to make this digital image of my 404C in front of the old Pininfarina factory in Torino.  Not too expensive at all.

150535085_ScreenShot2021-04-24at11_50_06AM.png.1a556fd5e32b5f4ea0233edcf8c82e80.pngI

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The new master cylinder is installed along with the glass fluid reservoir I found yesterday. The brake line that takes fluid from the Hydrovac booster to the wheels is now connected to its hose (the new one I got last week) and it's bolted to the firewall.1323596457_Mastercylinderandoutputlineinstalled.thumb.jpeg.d9ad4e230c449245bb14c7b7521f3665.jpeg

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This weekend all I did on the car was install the exhaust pipe.  With a lift it's a short job but on the ground in a 1.5 car garage it's not.  I had to lift the rear up enough to maneuver the rear section so I could actually mate it to the centre section.  The clamps on the cylindrical resonator are NOS Peugeot 404 parts that were plated in cadmium in Victoria, as is the rear one on the hanger, but the u-bolt on that hanger is not the original type although it looks the same from below.  Good enough!  Some fine-tuning may be needed to avoid any noise during normal driving but for now it's good.

Exhaust resonator.jpeg

Exhaust clamp.jpeg

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Today I had some time to test clean the spare set of injector lines with Muriatic Acid to see if it's get more residue out. Boy did it ever! So I pumped about 100 mL of Muriatic Acid through each line of the pipes that had been on the engine with a large syringe, pulsing it back and forth. After the acid flush, they were purged with water, then acid flushed again, and again, until the solution coming out was not orange (rust) anymore. The water purges were at high pressure and that dislodged more particulates and fuel sludge which you can see in the green tray.
 
Following the acid/water purges, the lines were flushed first with WD40 to try and displace any remaining water - each line was done about 6 times until it ran clear. Then I used a syringe to punch about 70 mL of STP concentrated injection system cleaner through each line, letting it stay in there for a while. The final rinse was with MolySlip Combat spray. The lines inside, which previously - near the ends, and no doubt in between too - had visible black corrosion residue, are all clean now and a scriber inside will not find any loose stuff. The spare lines were also quickly cleaned.
 
Then I removed and cleaned the ends of the injectors and delivery valves that had been connected before to the injector lines (pre-final cleaning) and then reassembled it all. I also changed the steel clamp that holds the two lines for cylinders 1 and 2 (nearest firewall) to the intake plenum for an aluminum one I made, because the alignment was slightly off for the steel ones and it could have chewed into the line to injector 2 over time. The aluminum clamp I made is gently shaped and will cause no problems like that....
 
Finally, I got some rubber tubing for the radiator overflow and also derusted the two tiny steel clamps that hold the tube to the radiator. Then I painted them and installed the tubing.
 
So in terms of visible progress it was minimal but I am much more confident about the cleanliness of the injector lines now!2039610115_InjectorLinesmounted.thumb.jpeg.29c9dfea5e0173945244ac38019a3a20.jpeg375156302_Radoverflow.thumb.jpeg.92a3e974adcb138e42044e6626f47f0b.jpeg2058419205_Radtop.thumb.jpeg.18a7b99689363ea341703da9a10b891e.jpeg2020425509_Injectorlineresidue.thumb.jpeg.097778565feaf96256b170a4a835646f.jpeg1113497780_Muriaticflush.thumb.jpeg.03de6f5a8b4a4255a99a2c9627834883.jpeg
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Considering the cost / value of those injectors that was time well spent!

Curious what if anything you have on the outside of the copper lines?  Or is the intent to let them tarnish / patina if left bare?

I like the shiny copper - it’s got a little steam punk look to it.  :)

Rabin

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I'll probably lay some of my aircraft anti-corrosion fluid (forgot the name) on them.  Did that to the intake manifold.

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With a few spare minutes left in a busy day I installed the radiator and connect the thermo-switch for the fan....and of course, installed the engine fan too.67596295_Radiatorin.thumb.jpeg.dfa69d67d5caacc4249eb49e5dd79042.jpeg

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Today after work I got the last bits of the braking system installed.  The Hydrovac booster is NOS but not rebuilt after being in the car with brake fluid for some time so it may not work properly.  To be verified when the engine is started and I can do a test drive.  I have a Le Club 404 contact in the USA with a newly (2 years ago) rebuilt Hydrovac and so if it is duff, he would do a standard exchange.  The remaining tasks are to put all the fluids in (after the lower radiator hose and 75 degree thermostat arrive from Germany.....), verifying valve clearances (the long block builder did it but I will double check) and checking all of the injection system settings with the special tools.  I also need then to buy a new battery and license the car.2111032731_Brakingsystem1.thumb.jpeg.6462c2cf8ad04013037cf22d2624f708.jpeg1163554621_Enginewithbrakingsystemin.thumb.jpeg.153617c8132a0df21789f3ce76fd8947.jpeg1536340846_Hydrovacandvacuumtank.thumb.jpeg.4ce651f4e3da99c553d1e857ed377b97.jpeg

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2 speed wiper motor installed - which does not leave a lot of room for draining new oil into the oil filler tube, hence the giraffe-style funnel.  Another advantage is the screen in the oil filler tube on the engine is not overwhelmed by the rate of drainage from the funnel so it's a "fill and forget" situation.56871848_Wipermotorinstalled.thumb.jpeg.f50aa5bc900c5b8058c3c95776024b9e.jpeg1824307779_ThrottleBodyCable.thumb.jpeg.e0dd4fa2844166ef368af5dd9191901f.jpeg1877081439_Oilfunnel.thumb.jpeg.5e45bf2070a9ffafe5ea94c0788ac546.jpeg

The accelerator cable on the fuel injected 404 has a brutally difficult-to-access fixing bolt.  Nothing that about an hour of pain would not rectify, mind you.

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The long block builder recommended break in oil for 20 minutes (that's what I put in today), stop engine + drain, change filter.  Then 10 W 30 SF old school hot rod oil for 1000 miles de rodage or so and then onto Motul or something like that.

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