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1966 404 Coupé Injection Restoration

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I picked up the vapour blasted parts this afternoon and took a few more photos.  Very clean; the throttle body was disassembled by me for internal cleaning as well as the installation of new bearings.

Driving the old ones out was easy - remove two circlips on the shaft end, remove the throttle spring holder from the shaft after marking its position, unscrew the 4 staked screws on either side that hold the bearings, tap the shaft out with  brass drift, tap the bearings out with a perfectly sized brass drift (there is the smallest of shoulders available to do that).

After its cleaned up I will reassemble it with the new bearings that you see in one of the photos.  The old ones were shot, damaged by road salt I presume.

Throttle body 2.jpg

Purflux 1.jpg

Throttle Body apart.jpg

Timing cover blasted.jpg

Intake system 1.jpg

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Throttle body is reassembled.  The screws were staked at the factory because the distance between the two plates determines the clearance between the throttle body and the throttle plate.  The large round inserts assure the air seal.  I didn't stake the screws but I did put blue Loctite on them.  The plates are snug to the throttle body but the screws are not "tight" but just touching the chamfered recesses in the two plates.  Now that it is all together, the throttle action is magnificently smooth!

I also took the wrong fuel filter for blasting so the vapour blaster guy will do the "correct" one for free on Wednesday!  The inside of the filter bowl that he blasted has severe rust pitting and the "correct" one does not. 

Throttle plate partialy assembled.jpg

Throttle Body reassembled.jpg

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Good point.

The first Purflux fuel filter assembly I had vapour blasted was the wrong one (from a wreck that had a lot of undrained water inside it) and it had very deep pitting cavities inside the bowl as a result. So the blasting shop offered to do another better one. This happened today and the result is much better mainly because the inside of the canister was far less affected by corrosion. You can see both here, with the better canister on the far right.

Purflux filters.jpg

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I got my second set of 0.5 mm oversized main bearings from Israel today.  The first set (with the half red/half blue label) from Peugeot Classic in France had chattering marks on two or three of the shells from improper storage in the distant past.  The Israel-sourced ones are excellent!

0.5 mm oversized mains Israel.jpg

0.5 mm oversized mains.jpg

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My 404's original heater tube, which takes hot coolant from the water pump to the heater core is beyond repair.  The carbureted engines have a similar tube but its secondary water outlet is in a totally different location.  However, the only new one available is for the carbureted engine, so I bought one of them at DEPANOTO and will have it modified in a local welding shop to adapt to the Injection engine format. 

Heater tube 2.jpg

Heater Tube 1.jpg

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I had the old bit of pipe that leads to the injection system thermostat (cold start/supplemental air valve) cut off the old pipe and welded to the new one.  The extra take-off on the shank (for the carbureted car) is still there but I will block it off with a rubber dead end clamped to it.

Modified heater pipe.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well that tube in the post above has been stripped of paint and is going into the plating shop Monday with a whole bunch of other stuff:

  • throttle body parts (just little stuff)
  • another batch of fasteners - I hope, the last
  • trunk latch
  • crank pulley
  • other small bits and pieces
  • fuel injection pipes

Also, I removed the three oil gallery plugs from the engine block today in preparation for its hot tanking in the shop I'm taking it to on Monday.  They're brass and the square heads are a tiny bit smaller than a 1/4 inch drive.  So I took a lower quality 1/4 inch drive and filed it until it fit.  The first one on the rear of the block came out easily.  The second one I tried, on the front of the block by the cam, stripped immediately (the square hole was rounded).  The third one came out beautifully.

The front one that stripped was not all that much of a worry.  I got a T-55 socket and used a Dremel to turn the formerly square but now rounded hole into an approximation of a Torx.  I hammered the T-55 home and used a huge breaker 1/2 inch drive bar to turn it out.  No worries.546323173_T55onoilplug.thumb.jpg.245bf819e9d26359a7f30121fbd3cacb.jpg 

Here is the sole rear oil gallery plug that turned out beautifully with my "special tool":



Also going to the machine shop tomorrow is the following:

  • new cylinder head - for fitting of hardened valve seats
  • new piston and liner kit, for cleaning off the preservative and mounting the new pistons to the rods, plus a hone of the liners
  • connecting rods so the small end bushings can be replaced with the new ones I have, and also hot tanked to clean the crud off them
  • crankshaft for assessment and grinding/polishing
  • NOS camshaft to clean the preservative off and check the clearances in the block (with the possibility of a line bore and bearing bush installation if required - I hope it's not)
  • 0.3 mm oversized rod bearing shells
  • 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm oversized main bearing shells
  • bearing caps and rocker arms and rocker shaft holders, for hot tanking and assessment of the rocker arms - new rocker shafts are supplied

Once all this is done we will be on the home stretch.  With the block ready, I can paint it and then start reassembly.

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The stuff to be plated is at Victoria Plating and the engine bits that have to be (nearly all) are at Anderson's, which is where this photo was taken this afternoon.

The crankshaft will be balanced by itself first, then again successively with each accessory that is attached to it once all is done.

Anderson's Machine Shop Evan Jennings.jpg

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Hi Mike - Can you explain "The crankshaft will be balanced by itself first, then again successively with each accessory that is attached to it once all is done" in more detail please?

I've heard of balancing cranks with the front pulley and the flywheel installed, or balancing each assembly individually so that when bolted together the whole assembly was balanced - but I've never heard of doing the crank and then successive balances with the accessories?  What accessories would be balanced with the crank?



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That's how the guy at the shop stated the process works - each element is individually balanced and then all together.  Makes sense, no?  If they're all individually  balanced they should be verified when all bolted together too.  Flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate, pulley....


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Just a terminology thing then - accessories on a motor are usually things like the alternator.  Ancillary components might be a better word for the bits that attach to the crank.

Totally makes sense to balance the assemblies - I assume he’s balance and blueprinting the parts as well?  IE ensuring all the pistons weigh the same, rods the same etc etc?



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Peugeot, do do a good job when balancing, my experience is 90's XU and TU engines, that said i've done a rebuild on the side of the highway in montenegro on a XU5j2c on a 405, lower radiator hose popped off, engine overheated but the gauge never moved because there was no water to transfer the heat to the sensor, piston ring binded up and lost all compression it wouldn't even start. Push it to the back of a gas station, removed the head, drop the oil pan removed the pistons and cylinder liners, hich hiked to the nearest town bought piston rings some silicone, head gasket. Replaced the rings, managed to drop 2 pistons on one i broke the piston skirt, the piston was surly out of balance but i assemble it, forgot to mention that i clean all the parts in the gas stations bathroom's sink, used gasoline from the pump and floor cleaner that i was given by the cleaning lady, assemble it, drove it back to macedonia and 1,5 years after, no vibration, it had better power then before and idle like a modern car with a carburetor and LPG, that engine got sold after i scraped the car i'm sure who ever bought it did not know that it has broken piston, cylinder head and block that have been smoothen with a hand file and the pistons and cylinder head has have been tighten with a tire iron and a fence pipe.

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