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Mike T

1966 404 Coupé Injection Restoration

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Great update Mike!

Quick tip for using zip ties - after they're tight use a sharp blade to slice the end off flush.  Looks very tide and zero chance of scratching on sharp edges left by side cutters.  I use zip ties quite a lot and love how tidy they can be while serving a function.  Much nicer than metal spring clips.

Also - I noticed you're using two different picture hosting sites for images - I know it's a hassle but feel free to upload pictures into the post as it always sucks when hosting changes and all the pics in a post disappear.  Something to think about anyway.

Rabin

 

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All the zap straps on the car are cut off flush, such as in the photo of the washer pump.  The ones that aren't were only temporary.  About hosting photos, I load these updates to several sites so in an effort to not duplicate the work too much, I sometimes copy the remotely hosted photo image URLs to save time.  I could change that here if you're confident that you have enough capacity.  Typical photo size is 3 MB.

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Ties:  Washer pump was why I commented.  :)  Good to hear they're flush cut - looks so much nicer.

Pictures:  I can extend member capacity as needed - so giver beans if you want!  (I'll investigate further as it might be better to create a new group with extended limits)

I'd much prefer having the pictures loaded with the post simply to ensure continuity.  It's a huge pet peeve when I find a cool post and all the picture links are dead, and I know from experience what a PITA it is to have to update a post to update the photo links - so I wouldn't really worry about updating them unless you really want too, but going forward please don't hesitate.

Another option would be to upload to the gallery on the site as well, then link to those images.  Might be a little easier that way - but not sure.  

Thanks,

Rabin

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I've loaded a few from the past two days....sample semi-cleaning of one combustion chamber, cleaning old original seat slides (I have new ones that are different and should be better because they have bearings), some work on valvetrain, mounting of right front bumper side mount, using the engine hoist to get the flywheel off and then reattaching the block to the engine stand and then finally an initial inspection of 4 of the 5 main bearings.

 

 

IMG_5797.jpg

OK rockers.jpg

original seat slides.jpg

original combustion chamber.jpg

Engine on lift.jpgCrankshaft.jpg

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So today was not much on the car front: I brought the 404 Coupé rear glass into the living room along with the new gasket and 8 stainless steel trim pieces - 4 long ones and 4 corners.  The word on the street is that the trim must be mounted before trying to put the screen in.  Well the long pieces are straight and the screen is a little curved so once installed, the trim has to be taped to the rubber so it won't pop out!  I may try installing it Sunday, using string and dish soap.

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What's the plan for the motor rebuild?  Usually things like decarboning the combustion chamber would get done if you sent it in to get planed / trued up, and I'd think valve seat grind with valve lapping and valve stem seals at a minimum?

Any other tricks?

Rabin

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I have a brand new head to use.  It will have hardened exhaust seats installed before use.  I haven't discussed the scope of work with the shop in Victoria that I'll use for machining but at a minimum the moving train will be balanced on top of the usual machining needs.  It might be simpler to have them do most of the work.    Before whipping the flywheel off I punched the flywheel and crank end to mark their relative location.

The head gasket will be a Reinz rather than bimetallic and that is thinner, hence the CR should move up to about 9.3:1 from 8.8.  I expect the power will nominally be about 100 bhp.  Reinz gaskets are better in terms of reliability too.

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I'd suggest a 3 angle valve grind, match porting the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head, and a very mild port just to smooth things out.  It's astounding how much efficiency  can be gained with just some simple tweaks to a stock head.  

Are the pistons pretty contoured?  The head has no squish pads at all and looks to be quite recessed.  Curious if the pistons come up above deck height much at all?

Rabin

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The pistons are domed and come above block height at TDC.  The modern valve grind technique will no doubt be what the shop will recommend anyway. They used to do Rudi’s mechanical/machining. I’ll take their advice, whatever that may be.

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As long as they're aware you're open to improvements I'm sure they'll suggest similar unless it's pretty good out of the box.  Are they doing the complete rebuild and reassembly as well?  Or just machining and you're assembling? 

Rabin

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Not sure yet.  It seems to me that to balance the lot it has to be mostly together (long block anyway) so maybe it’s better if they do it all.  I’m happy to do it though.

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F & F Safety Plate, the brand of windshield fitted to my car since at least January 1974, when...the last vehicle test was done (not required since 1983)

And the windshield is in!

windshield brand.jpg

City test sticker.jpg

Windshhield installed.jpg

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New 404 KF2 head bolts (NOS) and seat spacers.  The seat spacers were lost in the seventies when the second owner had the front seats reupholstered.  Need 16 and I have 21 to use.  My wife's seat may be a bit higher than mine if I add an extra 4.

IMG_5896.jpg

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Front part of the headliner trim was installed this afternoon, as were the wipers.  Wipers took 30 seconds; headliner and sunvisors took a couple of hours to get right.

IMG_5906.jpg

IMG_5905.jpg

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This is looking good Mike.  Nice job !  No bugs on your teeth and no sun in your eyes. Just a rear view mirror so you know who's behind and the engine to keep them there.  

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Wiper switch connected and dash pad mounted, along with A-Pillar trim that can't be seen in the photo.  Also, upper heater hose mounted, Peugeot NOS.

IMG-5909.jpg
IMG-5908.jpg

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