Mike T Posted May 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 ...speaking of Motul, today I bought a couple of containers of Motul DOT 5.1 for the braking system. Also, 2 litres Lucas 20W50 racing oil for the gearbox. Coming up is a four day weekend so I'll do the brakes, assuming my vacuum bleeding apparatus arrives on Friday as promised. If I get lucky and the new lower rad hoses and thermostat arrive from Germany, the coolant will go in too. I'll fill the gearbox with the 20W50 of course. The remaining question in my mind is the injection pump. Many people use engine oil in there and it's considered OK by some places that service Kugelfischer pumps. But the original recommendation of Esso Uniflo 40EP or Univis 40; the latter changes up to Mobil Univis N22 and that is available.....in 19 litre drums for about a hundred bucks. The injection pump takes 0.4 L. I'm thinking of using the leftover 20W50 instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 If there’s metal on metal sliding (like the rocker arms on cams) having an oil with high ZDDP content is beneficial. No idea what’s inside the pump or how it functions, but might be something to consider. There’s also zddp additives you can get to just add to the oil as well. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 I'm shifting over to buying the 19 litre drum, just to be safest. I ran engine oil in the KF pumps for 10 years with no problem but frankly it's only a bit more expense to buy the drum. I can share it with my friend Tim in Victoria, who also has a 404CKF2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 How long does the oil still inside the drum last? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 They say all their products are good for a minimum of 5 years and because it's not multigrade perhaps longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 I finally got around to riveting the aluminium rear plate holder onto the steel mount tonight. The black paint and finish of the centre of the holder was a bit sketchy so I decided to put the "404 COUPE" plate I had made up in France back in 1984 back on. But this time I drilled it through so the BC plate can go on top. I have two more (really!) - one front and one rear. This plate holder is not really suitable for Canadian plates but it's what the car came with. So.... Normally, the plate holder is riveted in 4 spots but it turns out that the rivets have the same spacing as the slots in a BC plate so I only riveted the top two on and the lower two will have thin bolts through the plate, the plate holder and steel mount. Previously when this car had a plate, I drilled holes in the extreme left and right sides, which was kind of gross. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 The brake bleeding tool arrived today and it's about 100 times better than the one I bought nearly 30 years ago. That one had a cube-shaped bottle that collapsed under vacuum! Haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 So the smallest quantity one can buy Mobil Univis N22 in is 18.9 litres.... The Injection Pump takes 0.4 L, so this is enough for a fill and 46 oil changes... It's the straight modern equivalent of Esso Univis 40. I'll be giving my friend Tim in Victoria a litre for his 404C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 I put the oil in and it's super thin, and I understand it's usable in the Peugeot branded dampers too. And then installed the new starter-battery cable. The 55 year old original was a bit off. Although the cap was good and so I reused it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Today was one for doing the first three of five Injection pump settings using the Peugeot-Fenwick factory tool kit. Step 1: Not a great view, but the tool you see sticking up by Cylinder 4 has a hook on the other end that sticks into the richness lever and locks into a slot on the throttle body: Step 2: The first pre-adjustment is to the clearance between the throttle body and the throttle body drum: 1 mm (adjusted by a 5 mm Allen key as you can see) with a special tool inserted into the throttle body and the tool shown above in Step 1 still in place: Step 3: In this step - Adjustment I (the precursor to Adjustments II and III of course!) with the injection pump richness lever locked in position and the throttle butterfly also locked in place, the two bolts (with jagged lockwashers) holding the thin metal "sector" plate to the throttle drum are slackened and it's moved until the forward flat mark lines up with the boss on the throttle body, then the bolts are tightened down again. Step 4: Another view of the special tool that locks the injection pump richness lever into a slot on the pump body while the throttle position is set by another tool: Step 5: Inside the throttle body is the tool that holds the throttle plate in a set position relative to the injection pump, which also has a special tool in it (the top of which is visible at the bottom of the photo). This essentially registers the throttle body position with that of the injection pump: Step 6: Adjustment II: this is the maximum throttle opening (you can see the vertical throttle plate in the photo), and it's set by lining up the notch on the thin metal plate that's bolted to the throttle drum with the jagged lockwasher with the front face of the boss on the throttle body. The adjustment is achieved by rotating the screw whose threading you can see just above the cable. Step 7: Final check (Adjustment III): Minimum throttle opening. Here the higher notch on the thin plate bolted to the throttle drum must line up with the flat boss on the throttle body. Lower centre right of the photo. You adjust it by adjusting the minimum throttle stop screw. Once the engine's running, the adjustment can range between where it is in this photo (12°) and the lower notch to the left (10°). Step 8: put air filter etc back on. Battery cables are ready to be connected: The last two adjustments of the injection system are done with the engine running - basically, the thermostatic richness lever on the intake manifold is set at 60°C by adjusting a screw (more special tools!) and also adjusting the supplementary air valve at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 I forgot to post these two... This is the stop for the thermostatic enrichment lever. It's a bolt which normally has a single split washer, but in new cars it had an additional 0.5 mm flat washer for the running-in period of 1000 miles. For rebuilt engines too, it is to be installed and then taken out. The funny thing is that of the 4 injection pumps I have, two didn't have this additional washer and two did. The two that didn't were on my car and the one from the 404 KF2 Injection sedan I used to run in the eighties. The two spare pumps were from cars that lived their entire lives running too rich a mixture because whomever serviced them didn't read the workshop manual! This threaded hole is where the stopping bolt goes. This is a spare injection pump, and I'm holding the richness lever up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 You can "fix" many engine problems with a rich mixture so maybe after reading the workshop manual they tried this instead of setting the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 Maybe, though setting the pump is actually just as easy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 All I did today was pump 20W50 racing oil into the gearbox. Messy job! Tomorrow I may do the brake fluid and coolant if the new lower radiator hoses arrive. Then I'll have to do electrical checks, put a jerry can of Chevron 94 in and see that the fuel feed line's connected to the correct tank pipe, prime the pump, bleed the delivery valves on the injection pump and then it'll be ready for some cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted May 25, 2021 Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 Don't forget the diff and engine oil, It's exciting time always when a rebuilt engine fires up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 Differential was filled 4 years ago, engine last week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 Tuesday I filled as best I could the braking system with fluid. My Rock Auto hand pump vacuum bleeder was not so hot so I ended up getting my wife to pump the pedal (new master cylinder so no problem) and got fluid into most of the system. The pedal's still super soft though so either the Hydrovac is super toasted inside or there is just a lot of additional air in there. These systems are notoriously hard to bleed so I tend to think it just needs a bit more bleeding. The assistance ratio is 7:1 so the slave cylinder on the servo has a huge displacement compared to the master....a very powerful vacuum might do the trick. Will try again, possibly with the engine running, to get the slave cylinder to do its large displacement. The system was totally dry of course. The Peugeot 404 workshop manual says to set the ARC50 purge machine at 31.2 PSI, and the hand pump manufacturer recommends 10 PSI, never more than 20....I suppose that's the issue, haha! Made this cool bib for the master cylinder to catch spilled fluid, with a rag underneath. ...and then today these arrived after more than a month from Germany: Two new lower radiator hoses and a new Calorstat thermostat set at 75°C. So I installed the lower hose, put the thermostat in and filled the coolant. For that I used the long life stuff used in Mercedes, pre-mixed. The system took about 6.5 litres so there's another 1.3 litres to go. In theory I could attempt a start anytime, but I think I'll double-check the valve clearances and re-check the distributor positioning against Cylinder 4 compression TDC first. That should not take too long. Then I'll put a battery in and check the electrical system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 Very exciting Mike! So close... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 Home issues have been taking precedence recently so there's not much to report. Our TV from 12+ years ago, after being used about 14 hours a day! gave up the ghost so plans today were altered to not only replace it but set it up in the house, which involved some rearranging.... Anyway the issue with the vacuum brake purger I have is not going to get better; it won't cut the mustard and a friend in California recommended using a MitiVac to generate more pressure. Well....I DO have a Pela pump that I use for oil changes and have used for 15 years.....why didn't I think of that? So tonight I rigged up a spare vacuum gauge with it and three strokes pegged the vacuum gauge at -15 PSI (-30 in Hg). So 6-7 strokes should do about -32 PSI. Will try this soon! In other news, I added just over 19 litres of Chevron 94 to its tank today. Will test the fuel circuit soon too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 I need a break from this project. The coolant has been in for a few days and there were some puddles on the ground. Thought it was from a little bleeding I did. Maybe.... ...but it's ALSO dripping from the head/block junction. The engine builder used a NOS bi-metallic gasket rather than the Reinz type I asked him to. This is the result. Head has to come off because who knows where else it's leaking. Project is set back a couple of months at least, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 That’s really unfortunate, but at least you found it now and can address it properly. Total gut punch seeing that leak though... Any chance there’s an easier way to do it? Say with intake and exhaust still attached? Hopefully there’s little to know surface prep and it’s already clean so might be a fairly swift R&R. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 Thinking of farming the rest of the work out....next year. Taking a break for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted June 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 I do have to whip the head off and make sure the combustion chambers / bores don't have coolant in them. Perhaps tomorrow, or next weekend. For the second opinion on the engine I may take it all to Lionel Hondier in Vancouver next year, because he builds lots of wet linered engines (Citroën). That is, if I can't figure out why it was leaking myself. Also have to find out where the brake line unions are sucking air....LOL! I did tell Anderson's Precision Engines about this in an email last Monday, but it's been radio silence so far...and ever if they offered to do it again, the assembly only cost a few hundred and now I don't trust their ability to do one of these "weird furrin' engines". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 6, 2021 Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 An inspection camera would make the bore check quick and easy, but the head has to come off anyway so there isn’t that big of a benefit to that... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 Use the zoom on your phone camera with the flash to look inside the spark plug holes, i've had good success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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