SRDT Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Pretty nice indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Wow! Doesn’t get any better than that for an old part... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 Can't wait to see them on the engine, they clean up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted August 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2020 I'll get them ASAP and get better photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted August 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2020 I picked up the vapour blasted parts this afternoon and took a few more photos. Very clean; the throttle body was disassembled by me for internal cleaning as well as the installation of new bearings. Driving the old ones out was easy - remove two circlips on the shaft end, remove the throttle spring holder from the shaft after marking its position, unscrew the 4 staked screws on either side that hold the bearings, tap the shaft out with brass drift, tap the bearings out with a perfectly sized brass drift (there is the smallest of shoulders available to do that). After its cleaned up I will reassemble it with the new bearings that you see in one of the photos. The old ones were shot, damaged by road salt I presume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted September 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Throttle body is reassembled. The screws were staked at the factory because the distance between the two plates determines the clearance between the throttle body and the throttle plate. The large round inserts assure the air seal. I didn't stake the screws but I did put blue Loctite on them. The plates are snug to the throttle body but the screws are not "tight" but just touching the chamfered recesses in the two plates. Now that it is all together, the throttle action is magnificently smooth! I also took the wrong fuel filter for blasting so the vapour blaster guy will do the "correct" one for free on Wednesday! The inside of the filter bowl that he blasted has severe rust pitting and the "correct" one does not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 A rectangular throttle plate, that's pretty unusual. It's probably to have a more linear relationship between airflow and throttle angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted September 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 Good point. The first Purflux fuel filter assembly I had vapour blasted was the wrong one (from a wreck that had a lot of undrained water inside it) and it had very deep pitting cavities inside the bowl as a result. So the blasting shop offered to do another better one. This happened today and the result is much better mainly because the inside of the canister was far less affected by corrosion. You can see both here, with the better canister on the far right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 I got my second set of 0.5 mm oversized main bearings from Israel today. The first set (with the half red/half blue label) from Peugeot Classic in France had chattering marks on two or three of the shells from improper storage in the distant past. The Israel-sourced ones are excellent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 My 404's original heater tube, which takes hot coolant from the water pump to the heater core is beyond repair. The carbureted engines have a similar tube but its secondary water outlet is in a totally different location. However, the only new one available is for the carbureted engine, so I bought one of them at DEPANOTO and will have it modified in a local welding shop to adapt to the Injection engine format. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted September 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2020 I had the old bit of pipe that leads to the injection system thermostat (cold start/supplemental air valve) cut off the old pipe and welded to the new one. The extra take-off on the shank (for the carbureted car) is still there but I will block it off with a rubber dead end clamped to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Well that tube in the post above has been stripped of paint and is going into the plating shop Monday with a whole bunch of other stuff: throttle body parts (just little stuff) another batch of fasteners - I hope, the last trunk latch crank pulley other small bits and pieces fuel injection pipes Also, I removed the three oil gallery plugs from the engine block today in preparation for its hot tanking in the shop I'm taking it to on Monday. They're brass and the square heads are a tiny bit smaller than a 1/4 inch drive. So I took a lower quality 1/4 inch drive and filed it until it fit. The first one on the rear of the block came out easily. The second one I tried, on the front of the block by the cam, stripped immediately (the square hole was rounded). The third one came out beautifully. The front one that stripped was not all that much of a worry. I got a T-55 socket and used a Dremel to turn the formerly square but now rounded hole into an approximation of a Torx. I hammered the T-55 home and used a huge breaker 1/2 inch drive bar to turn it out. No worries. Here is the sole rear oil gallery plug that turned out beautifully with my "special tool": Also going to the machine shop tomorrow is the following: new cylinder head - for fitting of hardened valve seats new piston and liner kit, for cleaning off the preservative and mounting the new pistons to the rods, plus a hone of the liners connecting rods so the small end bushings can be replaced with the new ones I have, and also hot tanked to clean the crud off them crankshaft for assessment and grinding/polishing NOS camshaft to clean the preservative off and check the clearances in the block (with the possibility of a line bore and bearing bush installation if required - I hope it's not) 0.3 mm oversized rod bearing shells 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm oversized main bearing shells bearing caps and rocker arms and rocker shaft holders, for hot tanking and assessment of the rocker arms - new rocker shafts are supplied Once all this is done we will be on the home stretch. With the block ready, I can paint it and then start reassembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 The stuff to be plated is at Victoria Plating and the engine bits that have to be (nearly all) are at Anderson's, which is where this photo was taken this afternoon. The crankshaft will be balanced by itself first, then again successively with each accessory that is attached to it once all is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 6, 2020 Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Hi Mike - Can you explain "The crankshaft will be balanced by itself first, then again successively with each accessory that is attached to it once all is done" in more detail please? I've heard of balancing cranks with the front pulley and the flywheel installed, or balancing each assembly individually so that when bolted together the whole assembly was balanced - but I've never heard of doing the crank and then successive balances with the accessories? What accessories would be balanced with the crank? Thanks, Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 That's how the guy at the shop stated the process works - each element is individually balanced and then all together. Makes sense, no? If they're all individually balanced they should be verified when all bolted together too. Flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate, pulley.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 6, 2020 Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Just a terminology thing then - accessories on a motor are usually things like the alternator. Ancillary components might be a better word for the bits that attach to the crank. Totally makes sense to balance the assemblies - I assume he’s balance and blueprinting the parts as well? IE ensuring all the pistons weigh the same, rods the same etc etc? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2020 Yup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 ...though I should add that they're very well balanced at the factory, into 6 separate weight classes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted October 7, 2020 Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 They are probably overly balanced and matched because of poor accuracy in manufacturing at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted October 8, 2020 Report Share Posted October 8, 2020 Peugeot, do do a good job when balancing, my experience is 90's XU and TU engines, that said i've done a rebuild on the side of the highway in montenegro on a XU5j2c on a 405, lower radiator hose popped off, engine overheated but the gauge never moved because there was no water to transfer the heat to the sensor, piston ring binded up and lost all compression it wouldn't even start. Push it to the back of a gas station, removed the head, drop the oil pan removed the pistons and cylinder liners, hich hiked to the nearest town bought piston rings some silicone, head gasket. Replaced the rings, managed to drop 2 pistons on one i broke the piston skirt, the piston was surly out of balance but i assemble it, forgot to mention that i clean all the parts in the gas stations bathroom's sink, used gasoline from the pump and floor cleaner that i was given by the cleaning lady, assemble it, drove it back to macedonia and 1,5 years after, no vibration, it had better power then before and idle like a modern car with a carburetor and LPG, that engine got sold after i scraped the car i'm sure who ever bought it did not know that it has broken piston, cylinder head and block that have been smoothen with a hand file and the pistons and cylinder head has have been tighten with a tire iron and a fence pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Friday I arranged with Hagerty for the insurance to be reset to a higher agreed value of $80K CAD - I sent them these two photos to give them an idea that it's nearly together. This weekend is a long one for me with Monday off so we will head to Saanichton to bring some more bits to the engine shop: pressure plate, woodruff keys and timing gear (pulley is still in the plating shop) and flywheel bolts. The 4 new old stock intake valves are on their way from Dean Hunter in England but won't be here by Monday so I'll have to run them down later. If the pulley's not plated by Monday noon I'll bring another one I have down with me and probably offer it to the shop for the balancing procedure, and use it on the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Absolutely stunning... So close Mike, it’ll be a very special car when complete. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 I dropped these bits and a little more off at Anderson's Precision Engines on Monday. Also, they will set the ring gaps for quick street use (not racing!) and I may also get them to build up at least the bottom end. Sent them the workshop manuals in PDF. They also have the cast iron exhaust manifold and will rectify the plane where it contacts the head and fine tune the stainless steel header pipe which is pretty good but requires a small adjustment to one of the three bolt holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Will you get the exhaust manifold and or stainless header pipe ceramic coated before install? I've never heard of adjusting ring gaps differently on how the motor is used - Did they mention what that difference would be? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Likely no ceramic coating. I'll think about it though. Setting ring gap is standard for speed shops and shops that work on sports car engines. Engines worked very hard will need a slightly larger ring gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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