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1966 404 Coupé Injection Restoration


Mike T

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Saturday I'm going to rebuild the AEG/KF with a kit supplied by my buddy Peter van Deukeren from the Netherlands.

The tiny bearings:
AEG-Pump-bearings.jpg

The shaft seal:
Seal-for-AEG-pump.jpg

The kit:
Peter-s-AEG-rebuild-kit.jpg

My two AEG PLF 5 pumps:
AEG-fuel-pumps.jpg


And today, because I couldn't find the original clips for the dash pad, I made these out of 1mm thick spare rocker panel/sill material.  They now have to be covered with a thin layer of black vinyl.  They join the top of the soft dashboard pad with the soft A-pillar trims.  Each one has been shaped by hand to fit each side very well.

Dash-clip-replicas.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dismantling of the AEG/KF fuel lift pump.

A little bit of electrical tape over the motor's drive pinion facilitated the armature's extraction from the pump body without in any way damaging the original grease seal, which is still supple.  So I will leave it in place and use the same technique to re-insert the pinion through this seal.
Grease-seal-AEG.jpg

The freed armature.
IMG-6262.jpg

Making up some different sized slotted washers in the garage made short work of extracting the tiny drive pinion and nearly as tiny bearings.
IMG-6265.jpg

Armature mounted on a drill in a vise so I could polish the commutator/slip ring with fine emery cloth.
IMG-6267.jpg

Comparison between the armature of my car (4598609) on the right and that of a scrapped Canadian Cabriolet (6800519) on the left. 4598609 has done 83,000 miles.  I bought the entire drivetrain from 6800519 in 1982, and at least the electric motor seems to show the traces of more like 200.000 miles...
IMG-6268.jpg

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Today I pressed the new bearings onto the motor shaft with a vise and then the pinion gear after it was inserted into and through the grease seal in the underside of the motor mounting plate.  Checked the length of the original brushes: 6 mm and 9 mm....too short, so I looked in my spare parts stock and found two new or nearly new ones, both 12 mm long.  Then the motor was tested and it was SO smooth!

AEG-electrical-part-rebuilt-and-tested.j

Next task: the hydraulic part of the pump, which sits below the electrical part.

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Today I reassembled the hydraulic part of the AEG/KF PLF5A fuel lift pump.

Bad surprise: despite the excellent condition of the electrical part of the original pump that equipped my car, the same could not be said of the hydraulic part.  The idler pinion inside the pump chamber was seized to its shaft!  The last time I ran the engine was about 2005 so the seizure occurred after that....I presume after I disassembled the car in 2016.  Also, the lower plate that covers the pump chamber has a regulation valve that is supposed to be removed and checked during a rebuild like this and it too was seized!  Anyway, all was not lost...

...because I have a spare lift pump from a car I used to own in 1981-1985 and its hydraulic portion was perfect.  All it needed was a thorough cleaning.
AEG-comparison.jpg

Cleaning nearly done and the last bits about to go back together....
AEG-hydraulic-open.jpg

And it's together.  I did another dry run test with it all assembled and it sounded good.  I should try a pump test, I suppose, though I have no reason to think it won't pump.
AEG-assembled.jpg

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Wow Mike - you really stock piled parts For this build!  First reaction on reading the hydraulic part was in bad shape was feeling your pain, followed by “Well of course he had a good spare...”  Well now played!

Is the bad one salvageable for an parts or possible rebuild or is it too far gone?  
 

Rabin

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After I had finished assembling the pump that will go on the car - and cleaning the fuel line banjo unions that are now on it - I had a closer look at the seized pinion. 

I got a brass punch and gave it some gentle taps and it began to move.  Sprayed some WD-40 and it moved some more...then I was able to get it out.  Cleaning the shaft and inside of the pinion made it work again when I reinserted it.  It was not rust that caused it to seize.  So I think it could be made to work.  Although the driven shaft seemed a bit graunchy compared to the one I used, maybe graunchy isn't the right word, but at least less smooth.  That too could be cleaned up with a full disassembly.

The seized valve adjuster is a bit more of an issue.  I suppose it could come out if I had the perfect screwdriver for it.  I soaked it in WD40.

The commutator is shot as seen in an earlier post in this thread but a kind soul in Hungary is sending me a spare new one he had made locally, for free no less!  So perhaps one day I could put together a second well functioning pump with what's left.  I also found another nearly new set of brushes inside the second motor....

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No actual work has been done on the 404C for a couple of days but today I ordered:

  1. a new old stock camshaft (specific to the KF2 Injection engine) from Loewendoctor in Germany;
  2. a set of 8 new lifters from Alvéas in France;
  3. a timing chain tensioner also from Alvéas.

The cam was very expensive but I think a new old stock cam will be better than any regrind.

A few weeks earlier I ordered new navy blue lap belts for the car, which should be here really soon.

And a bit after that, some SEV Marchal spark plugs in NOS for the KF2 Injection engine is on its way from Italy.

I hope that's the last of the new parts I will need to get the engine back in shape.  I expect to get both in the next few weeks.

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Mike, my experience with NOS spark plugs is they work better on 2 stroke mopeds and other stuff that has magnet ignition. New spark plugs are so much better and last much longer, i installed NOS spark plugs on the lada niva they wore from the early 90's never used, and failed with in 5000 km. I run LPG that has affect but the fuels now are like acid.You may want to save them for when you take it to a car show.

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Second time doing the driver's door panel.  The window winder was not happy staying in place and that was down to the padding under the vinyl being too thick next to the embellisher.  I also had to remount the lower part of the vinyl in order to slightly recontour the lower edge to better fit. And finally, the screws under the armrest were mounted.

Reglueing-driver-s-door-vinyl.jpgDriver-s-door-panel-remounted.jpg

I got new lifters and timing chain tensioner from Alveas in France, and two sets of NGK BP7ES from Rock Auto.

New-lifters-tensioner-plugs.jpg

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Zsolt Parragh in Hungary kindly sent me this tiny commutator for the AEG-KF fuel lift pump of the 404C - for free!  Zsolt also has a 404C and his needed a new commutator, so he had a small batch made up.  Very generous of him.

new-commutator.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Seat belts mounted 
seat-belts-installed.jpg
 
High temperature paint on the brake shoes - rear linings need to be changed 
brake-shoes.jpg
 
Whipped the brush holder out of the the SEV-Motorola alternator - dirty inside
dirty-slip-ring-alt.jpg
 
Brush holder before cleaning
alt-brushes-holder.jpg
 
clean slip rings
cleaned-slip-ring-alt.jpg
 
Remounting. (the bolts holding the brush holder in are 1/8 inch, which is neither nor 5.5 mm.  American parts!
brushes-inserted-to-alt.jpg

 

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Front cylinders assembled:

 

 

Autopsy on the old oil pump - trashed inside.  The new one is perfect but of a slightly different form.  I will have to use a later type oil strainer with it.  Luckily I have one, but I would rather use a new one if I can find one.

 

Front brake cylinders.jpg

Oil Pumps.jpg

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Brakes mounted.
 
It seems I may have lost or at least misplaced the brass connections between the front brake hoses and the forward brake cylinder.  The hose can be screwed straight in but that's not correct. I'll find two of them somewhere.

Driver side front brake spring detail.jpg

RF wheel on.jpg

RF brake detail.jpg

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