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Peugeot XUD9 homemade tug loader


Goce

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Today i continued working on the second axle, first used wire wheel to clean as much dirt and rust that i could. Then i tried to chuck it in the lathe, but it was too long, so i marked all my dimensions, i took 6,5 centimeters more from one side to make it symmetrical, than i used my angle grinder and cut one of the flanges to be able to chuck it up in the lathe and start my cleaning and cutting, next i need to weld the flanges and the housing will be completed, as for the axles it will be more difficult and hazardous, more to come.

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lately i've been extremely busy, but today i had couple of hours to spare and i used them to work on the second axle, started by welding the axle housing, then i cleaned the housing and the axles to remove the oil and grease from it, then i chuck the axle in the lathe, i managed to stuck the drum brake backing plate where it will turn with the axle, and had to run it at lower speed to avoid flying brake parts, then i clean a spot for the study rest to run and then i cut down the front piece, then cut it off and face the bigger end, center drill it and drill, rim it to size, you can see the difference in size then is shortened, then i did the same on the other axle and took them back to the big garage and welded them next little clean up and assembly, more to come.

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Today i continued assembling the second axle, started by tapping in the new axle oil seals, and cleaning the housing, axles and all the flanges then i applied silicone sealant, this axle when it came apart it did not have a gasket only a bead of silicone, so that is what is getting again, dropping the diff carriage was more difficult, because is a very tight fit, then i installed the axle, use lock washers on all the bolts and modified those lada handbrake cables to fit, then i bolted the wheels, the wheel bolt seam to be little long, and are interfering with the insides on the drum brakes, i need to shorten them or make new ones also need to make a center ring to much the id on the wheel and the od on the axle, next i may assemble the engine to gearbox and get it ready to place, before i start on the frame work, more to come.

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I've been extremely busy lately, today managed to spare an hour and work on this project, started by washing the engine with gasoline to knock the worst of the dirt, then i started on the clutch, i managed to assemble the clutch and attach the gearbox to the engine, and finally installed the starter motor, also was able to find a lower engine mount, it serves two duties, roll stop for the engine and place to bolt the long axle support bearing, does anyone have a semantic how to connect a tachometer for those older engines, it has a sensor on the back of the engine block that corresponds with the backside of the flywheel, or a diagram for a 305 diesel ?

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  • 3 weeks later...

last couple of days i've been spending every spare minute designing and making this hub centering ring, first wanted to make it from steel but my local metal supplier did not have big enough piece, so i bought a piece of nylon plastic with amazing properties, its easy to machine and stiffer than aluminium but is 4 times more expensive then steel, made one for one side and install it also cut down the wheel bolts, interesting thing here is the axle is 4x110 bolt pattern and the wheels are 4x108 (peugeot) pattern, but the bolt i've used are from renault and have much steeper almost 90 degree taper and together with centering ring made for perfect fit, one more to make and fit when i get some free time.

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Once i've made a working part is easy to copy, so the other side centering ring took less than an hour, so i mounted it and again shorten the wheel bolts and also fits perfect, i made this one the right length.

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  • 2 weeks later...

last month has been hectic for me so i haven't had much free time and i spend much of it on the mi16x4 figuring lost in power and wheel hop, but in the meanwhile i've source this steering wheel and pedals and brake assembly, this was one of the bigger things i was missing for this project, the steering wheel will be changed and lock and switches will be removed, the engine has no vacuum pump so i could not run vacuum servo brakes, so finding brake assembly without vacuum booster was difficult and had to get parts with more usage than i like, but should be good enough, more to come.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally i found some time to do some work on this project, started by putting the bearing flanges and bearings together and then welding the two bearings 90 degrees one from another so i can get Articulation in two directions between the axles, then i put together the pedals, brakes steering assembly to be able to plan space for it, then i moved the engine to the middle of the garage where i'll be making the the frame and i'll have more room, then i placed the rear axle and started planning the rear driveshaft, i'll probably end up using this 405 drivers side axle, but i'll have to make an flange and i'm out of round stock that big, so i cut couple of squares that will turn on the lathe, needed to drill holes on the middle so i can tap them for M12 threads to be able to hold them in the chuck, i also need to figure out a way to space the middle of the flange to avoid the center bolt on the diff, more to come.

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Today i had couple of hours to spare so i managed to make couple of squares in round flanges, i have no clue what the metal supplies used to cut this piece with, but did heat treated it and made it hard to machined, took couple of carbide inserts but i won, also managed to disassemble the outer cv joint so i can machine it as well, and i need to make some short of spacer to space it out and have space for the flange bolts and avoid the center bolt, interesting fact is that the flange bolts are exactly 2,5 inches apart, and is mazda (japanese) diff should be metric?

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Today i continued working on coupling the rear axle to the BE3 gearbox, first i marked and drill the flange bolts, then using an angle grinder cut the spines of the CV joint, then i started on the lathe work, started by machining a spacer, first on the inside the outside and parted it off, then moved on the cv joint, i cut down the taper and made a groove for the spacer to locate it, the joint is hardened steel so it wasn't easy to turn, then i worked on the flange, drill and bore out the center hole, and cut a groove for the spacer to locate, then i clamped everything, and welded it together, there was a small hole in the center of the joint so i weld it shut to keep the grease in, more to come.

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Was the Japanese tooling metric? Or maybe they copied an american part. It's like the metric brake boosters that are sized by inches but converted in mm.

Are you doing the final machining of the flange after welding it? At least put it on the lathe to see how out of round you are.

If it's too much you could try to correct it by heating it on strategic points. Difficult skill to master but incredibly usefull when you can't use an hydraulic press.

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Japanese use metric tooling usually 12mm and 14mm on everything, i also thought they may copied an american part or sourced driveshaft components and made their parts fit, i did chuck up the welded part in the lathe and made them straight, not perfect but should be good enough, had to wait for the part to cool down that's why there are no pictures.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yesterday i had some free time so i started figuring out the layout of this project, first mounted engines roll stop and both axles, then i position the rear frame rails to see how they need be to cut and band to fit around the engine and gearbox, then i position the front axle, the trick to making this articulated steering work is to place the articulated joint (turning bearing) exactly on top of the front axle CV joint, that way it want gain or lose length on the drive shaft when is turning, and if there is any length change the inner drive shaft joint can accommodate up to 40mm of movement, next i wanted to position the steering box, but when i started to turn it it wasn't working, i know it has come out of a working car so must be something simple, the problem was the little ball bearing has come out of their place and were lying at the bottom, i used some grease to hold them in place and position the pinion, then i had a big struggle removing the steering arm its key in 4 places so i can move it every 90 degrees, and to make it turn left when i turn left i'll have to place it on the right side of the engine, this is not a big deal, because the only place to put the driver and controls is at the back, like on a tractor, there is space on the top of the engine, but will make it very top heavy which i want to avoid, more to come.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today i spend couple of hours working on this project, started with left frame rail, i was little concerned about losing the strength, but decided to go ahead if needed i'll add reinforcement, then i made the right frame rail, little more complex to get it around the center diff, than i work on the rear crossmember, the two 12mm thick plates are the rear hitch just need to drill a hole in them, it should be a strong point for towing, then i attached the turning bearings, then i managed to remove the entire frame to be able to weld the bearing on all sides, at this point i stopped i also need to make one more cv joint for the front diff to be able to locate the front diff turning point, more to come.

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