my3AWDgst Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 26 year old cars with poor maintenance history will do that to yaaa ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Ok my wife helped me bleed the brakes, then one of the rubber fuel lines broke while doing it. So new rubber fuel lines are coming tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 you're in the "gets worse before it gets better" phase. as savo noted, you're working through all those years of deferred maintenance by previous owners. keep up the good work! andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Really is to be expected with a car that has sat for so long... You're approach is spot on, as is your repair ethic - but it's a longer road than a car that is bought road worthy. The plus side of a complete going over like you are doing is the end result is usually much better as you essentially address every vehicle function when you are this thorough. Great progress! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Fuel system together and no leaks. Brakes seem to be working but still think they could be better. Put wheels back on and off jack stands. Moved it back and forth but idles ruff. Think external fuel pump is going bad. So close,but yet so far away. Thanks for the encouragement guys, started getting fustrated for a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Ok trying to figure out the running ruff problem. Discovered a fuel line leak just after external fuel pump. Disconnected fuel pump, started car to depressurize fuel lines. Car keeps running when I know it shouldn't. Can anyone explain to me why, logic is not dictating why this is happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 You disconnected the main fuel pump (3) but there is another (2) inside the tank, it's low pressure and used against vapor lock. It seems that for some reason they didn't simply put the main pump inside the tank. On the 205 and 309 fuel injection tanks where specific with a bigger opening for a single fuel pump, maybe in the 505 it was cheaper to go that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Thanks for the answer. That makes sense. Going to work on it again tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my3AWDgst Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Also fuel pressure regulator like to fail on these engines,they leak internally through vacuum hose and filling up intake manifold with fuel wich can cause running rich condition. That happened to me once and it was running very rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Wife is bringing home new pressure regulator all of the symptoms point to that so yeah Savo thatwas our conclution thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Banging my head against the wall. Cant seem to get the car started. Fuel lines replaced. New sparkplugs and wires. Won't start but it seems to want to. At a loss. Any thoughts. It has a UX9 engine with the Bosch L3.1 jetronic multi point injection system. SRDT, hope you are safe and everyone you know is safe over there in France. Lots of prayers to all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Hi Martin - have you tried priming the intake with fuel? (I use ether/starting fluid VERY CAREFULLY since if there's a y spark it'll fire pretty much no matter what. Only use a little - short puff is all that's needed to fire.) I usually do that to see if it's spark or fuel that's missing, then chase it down that way. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my3AWDgst Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 1) Make sure you are getting fuel to fuel rail (hose by distributor) 2) Make sure you are getting spark. 3) Replace fuses and relay in MFI fuse box( passenger shock tower) 4) Weak or bad crankshaft sensor is number one reason for these vehicles not to start. Wiring and isolation by sensor it self comes apart from age and oil leaks. 5) Number two reason for no start is coolant temp sensor. Blue color and yes Napa have them in stock as they are same as BMW units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my3AWDgst Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Hi Martin - have you tried priming the intake with fuel? (I use ether/starting fluid VERY CAREFULLY since if there's a y spark it'll fire pretty much no matter what. Only use a little - short puff is all that's needed to fire.) I usually do that to see if it's spark or fuel that's missing, then chase it down that way. Rabin Hmmmm why not diagnose it first before force feeding it with fuel and potentially flooding it or catching it on fire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 It's literally the fastest way to eliminate the entire spark/ignition systen if it fires, and it takes very little effort. If it fires it's fuel related and you don't have to mess with anything ignition/spark related, and you can focus on fuel system. Not sure why anyone reasonably handy with cars would think manually providing fuel to an engine would be so hazardous - I personally think you'd have to pretty incompetent to mess it up as bad as you suggest. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Won't start but it seems to want to. do you mean that it cranks, but won't fire up (turn over)? when i had that problem recently, it turned out to be the connector on the ignition control module -- the little spring wire on the connector that holds it to the module was bent such that the connector wouldn't stay on. in the course of cleaning and working around my engine compartment, i must have bumped the connector or something so that it would intermittently become disconnected. it wasn't until i went to replace the ignition control module that i found the problem. with all of the work that you've been doing on the car, something like that may have happened to you -- it certainly wouldn't hurt to check all of the electrical connectors in the engine compartment to make sure they are making good contact. these cars are getting up there in years now, so stuff like this can happen -- and that's not even taking into account the crazy things that POs have done... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Was checking out the car. Puffof starter fluid and nothing. Butwhen i pull out a plug, there is fuel on the plug. Found this wire coming off the coil plug and itis not connected. Looked around to see where it goes. Should this be grounded some way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 So you're definitely not getting spark, so you can focus on that. Once you get spark - it should fire at least on priming. You can ground/mount that bracket, but that is for noise suppression I believe. Andre and Savo both had good suggestions so I'd follow up on them. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 In your best opinion, what is the best way to check for spark. I have never had to do this before and I want to make sure to do it the best way possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Did this car ever run for you? (I looked back, but not sure if it was the 405 or the 505 you were discussing.) As for where to start I'd look at the sensors Savo suggested, I'd clean and inspect the fuses and relay connections, and I'd go over all the electrical connections as well as grounds. Cleaning and some sort of dielectric grease to protect connections. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 I drove the car into the garage. Had it running a number of times (that is how I found the fuel leaks) then it now will not run. Will do as suggested and will give updates. Thanks. This is the 405 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Was checking out the car. Puffof starter fluid and nothing. Butwhen i pull out a plug, there is fuel on the plug. Found this wire coming off the coil plug and itis not connected. Looked around to see where it goes. Should this be grounded some way? rabin's right, this wire is for noise suppression; it gets attached to the front of the coil: andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Took fuel lne off at pressure regulator to make sure fuel is going to rail had son try to start fuel came out of regulator, thought fuel line were crossed. Switched and tried again, nothing. Switch back now with accelerator to floor it runs for a little then stalls. I am thinking fuel pump opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 18, 2015 Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Did you solve spark? If s and you're having fuel issues I like to start with measuring fuel pressure in the rail to make sure injectors have proper supply. Next step would be some injector noid lights to make sure injectors are pulsing. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Hicks Posted November 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 It seems to be getting spark. My theory is that the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel pump got kinked and is surpressing fuel supply. The fuel pump , if it was replaced, is not secure in its mount. I was able to twist is around when changing the filter. Not sure why it would not try to start with starting fluid. Going to check it out now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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