Stewart Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Researching Turbo Bypass valves, I found the Bosch Sport 110, Bosch number 0 280 142 110 a compressor bypass valve, CBV. Do Forum members have a better valve or knowledge of them, please? The valve is necessary to relieve the pressure once the throttle is shut on boost. It is intended to stop surge and relieve high loads on the turbo, so to me it is a must have. A max boost for my new layout will be 12 psi if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Hi Stewart - like anything else it's dependent on budget and boost levels. 12 psi would be fine for the Bosch unit. Mount it close to the throttle plate and have it recirculate back in just before the turbo inlet. There's a ton of after market, but for modest boost levels you can't go wrong. Cheaper still would be if you can grab a stock OEM CBV off a Turbo Saab or similar car. The EFR turbo I like has it built into the compressor housing like stock Volvo turbos, but if I were to spec one out I really like http://www.synapseengineering.com products. If I ran a separate CBV and external wastegates I'd likely use their bits. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my3AWDgst Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 EVO VIII,EVO IX or 1g DSM will do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Cool, thanks for that here is one I found, I'll check with my dealers today. http://www.lancershop.com/customer/product.php?productid=191&cat=172&page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Just finished lunch and thought, what an electric BOV? It would certainly be more controllable. Autospeed made one years ago the article is called "The all electric blow off valve" .Might be worth thinking about as it is easily run off the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 I used to get compressor surge during cruise with the bosch valve so I mounted a Tial atmospheric and get much less chatter. They also make a nice recirculating valve. I agree the stock evo valves are pretty good, but if you feel the need for adjustability there are many quality aftermarket valves to choose from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my3AWDgst Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 This one is good up to 300 HP and the price is great. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=18795&cat=971&page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my3AWDgst Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Cool, thanks for that here is one I found, I'll check with my dealers today. http://www.lancershop.com/customer/product.php?productid=191&cat=172&page=1 Yes EVO IX (metal one) is the one you want. It's good for 350-400 HP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Great thanks my3. I'll check with my Mitsu spares. A bloke might just be lucky to get new old stock. If I can get one at a reasonable cost. I've been checking Pneumatic valves too and, Mac Valves, Goyen and some others do a 12 volt, 22 to 24mm valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Electric is a very cool possibility I never considered as it would actually be even better by anticipating the closed throttle and opening just prior to the pressure wave. Initially I was thinking a simple throttle stop action would work well enough - but that controller in he Autospeed takes it a step further. Of course - if you have an electic bypass set up, I bet anti lag would be a lot easier to set up as well. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Burkett do a valve that does steam to 180 deg C. More checking involved but it makes a lot of sense to run electric via Link ecu and vent the air in downstream of the turbine. No noise either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 It should vent back in before the turbine, so wouldn't that be upstream of the compressor? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my3AWDgst Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 It should release by passed air before compressor housing. Why not just run it to atmosphere? Running it back in to the engine would create more fabrication and extra weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Yes, I'll plumb it back to the air intake. Interesting stuff but I wish I was working on the V8. I don't want the 404 to sit without an engine so I'm having a go at an exhaust manifold , log style with longish runners of 150 to 200mm. It seems to be the easiest way. I read the log style are proven to be good as the scavenging of gases is not so good which leaves exhaust gas to mix with the inlet charge. This acts as a detonation suppressor so that is cool with me having come this far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Is clearance the reason you cant do a simple bolt on adapter to go from the factory manifold to the T25 flange? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 Yes mate. I'm like an old dog with an old toy, just can't give it up though! I have few things on the checklist I'd like to bring together this time in a neat package. The main problem is space for everything. I reckon on using 4x 90 deg bends the same length, down to a " log" of pipe to which the t25 is mounted in a convenient spot. That will then allow for a decent down pipe before I have to squeeze the exhaust down between the already modified chassis rail and steering uni. The plan is to run pipes from the head which are just larger inside than the port then into a small volume log or chamber which should provide a nice smooth even pulse volume of the exhaust to the turbine. It should be a small enough assembly to allow me then cover the manifold in heat shield top and bottom . I have got a 280 deg cam as well so I want to give the tuning of the exhaust some consideration. That should give clearance for oil filter/ brake master/ water to air intercooler , O2 sensor, oil switch , water pump outlet, etc, etc, etc. It sounds like a lot and feels like a real drama some times but it is all starting to fall together again. The last assembly with the oversize T3T4 was quite flexible from 1500 without any crazy out of control tyre frying after 4000 sort of stuff but would also push very hard in top gear after 3500 . I learned a lot and think I might be on the right track again for what I'd like this time. I had logged 1 or 2 psi from 1800 2500 rpm from that T3T4, which probably shouldn't have been happening but it did work with real flexibility so, the little 2.2 with a 280 deg cam does work and pump exhaust quite well ! I plan on setting it all up and getting the mixture tuned in again with my Innovate and running an electric turbo bypass, before heading to my friend and his Dyno at STZ Automotive. http://stzautomotive.com.au/?page_id=157 He thinks I'm crazy too, by the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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