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1985 505 S Turbodiesel


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Today I went up to the diesel shop and picked up my freshly resealed and recalibrated pump.

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Next week I'm going to bring them the other one and have them do the same thing to it. It's missing the cold start idle/advance actuator, but the guy says he has some from old cores and will give me one. What a great shop!

And when I got home, I found this in today's mail

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What could it be? :)

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I posted this in the "what did you do today thread", but without the photo.

Previously I had the spare IP that came with the car re-sealed and re-calibrated as just a matter of principle. That pump was off of an automatic XD3T car.

Today I removed the leaky injection pump that was on the car and took it down to the same shop so they can work their magic on it. I had originally intended to just swap pumps, but since I plan to keep this car 100% stock, I'm just going to install the original pump once I get it back. The spare pump will either remain in safe storage for future use, or if someone needs one in the interim I'd considering selling it.

Here is the void left by the evicted IP. You can see how damp the side of the block is from the leak. Also, I think it's cool that some of the original green engine block paint is still present up near the cylinder head.

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Bill also contacted me regarding the engine mounts; They've been delivered and he will be forwarding my pair to me as soon as he can. I'm excited!

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I remember reading that the automatics were 10mm plungers, and the manual were 9mm plungers.

I havent looked on mine to make sure - but I'm curious if you can confirm that?

100% stock shows dedication - I can never leave well enough alone. :)

Rabin

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Joe,

I take it that the series 2 wiper switch might not work. I have an extra series 2 that I can send you from an 87. My first 505 was an 83, and for the life of me, I can't remember how the delay worked. The 86 and up has the graduated control. I wonder if the plugs are the same..

The light switches are interchangeable (just plug and go) between the two series, and it has been my experience that the series 1 light switches are more hardy (based on a small sample).

Bill

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Thanks to Mr Bill Branch, my new motor mounts are on their way to NC. Once I get them installed along with the re-sealed injection pump, the 505 will be out of the garage and back on the road!

As a side note, I just wanted to say how impressed I am at this community. For such old and rare cars, and so few of us to keep them on the road, our community and support system is above and beyond any others out there. :)

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I haven't updated this thread in ages, so here's a brief recap.

First off, anyone rolling around in an XD powered Peugeot with 30+ year old engine mounts is putting themselves through needless noise, vibration, and harshness ;) The new mounts completely smooth out the engine at all but the lowest engine speeds (and even then it's much much improved). The contrast was especially noticeable on this car due to the fact that the engine was sitting on the steering rack (no really, it was).

I need new tires, as the Michelins that were mounted on my old set of 14" Amils are cracking and just not in the best shape. Plenty of tread, but I don't trust them. Probably going to go with Michelin again, 195/70 of course (stock size, or should be anyway).

I've noticed that the throttle return on the rebuilt injection pump is a bit weak. I'm not sure if one of the two return springs is weak (or need to be clocked by one turn), or if the seal/bushing for the throttle shaft is binding. Gonna have to investigate further.

Last night I was going to go for a spin, but I smelled diesel fuel. Paranoid, I checked under the hood and eventually found the banjo fitting for the fuel return line off the pump is cracked. I've never seen that before, and it certainly wasn't overtightened. Weird.

The paint is still terrible. I know I want to paint it and change the color. I'm toying with the idea of taking the 89 body kit off of Jonathan's white Turbo, fixing the damage (I know a good motorcycle plastic repair and paint guy), and fit them to the car, or just shorten the bumper shocks and add the pre-89 Turbo front spoiler.

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I vote the euro series 1 look is the way way to go for series 1 cars... Love that clean simple look.

I love my 89' - but styling isn't as clean as the series 1 euro cars. Front end is awesome - but the rear bumper is tacked on and looks terrible.

Rabin

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A shame since I really like the way it looks :(

I'll settle for shortening the bumper shocks since that is probably the cheapest route. It is a popular mod with the BMW crowd, but then again their early 80s bumpers are nothing short of atrocious.

Instead of drilling (and spraying hydraulic fluid everywhere) to collapse the shock, I'm going to see if there's a way to cut the beams and shorten them, then somehow bind the two pieces back together. Obviously I can't weld it due to the heat it generates. If that approach doesn't work then I might try making my own bumper mounts that collapse using something like the steering column from an old Beetle (see pic). I don't want a rigid mount because heaven forbid I hit something or get hit, I don't want the chassis of the car completely vulnerable to impact energy.

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Marco tried finding me the bumpers but costs were out of hand - over $1k each after shipping.

I figure for that kind of cash I'd cut up a USDM bumper and make it look like the series 1 bumpers...

I also really want to install under trunk fuel tank so I can have the full trunk back..

Rabin

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Over the weekend I replaced the fuel return pipe. Upon startup, the engine ran lumpy and I traced it down to the primer pump diaphragm, which seems to have finally failed completely. I installed my new one, got her primed, and she cranked up beautifully.

However, trouble continues :( Remember the sluggish throttle return I mentioned before? Well that issue seems to have escalated. The throttle doesn't work at all anymore. It will idle, but I can pull the lever all the way back and there's no change. So now I have to pull the pump off and take it up to the shop. I spoke to the rebuilder on the phone, and he said that if it isn't something simple like the throttle lever coming loose from the shaft, then it's the spring under the top cover that attaches it all to the governor assembly.

Ugh...

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