1985 505 S Turbodiesel

[JunktionFET]

I bought Thomas's '85 TD 5 speed and had it shipped across three timezones. It is an original California car and Thomas gave me a very detailed history. It had been sitting unused for a while before he got it, and he only owned it long enough to renew things like hoses, belts, etc. As you know, Thomas rescued that white '89 STX, and the only way to make space for it was to sell a car or two. I'm the lucky guy who scored this one.

It has 120k miles on the clock, and judging by the car's condition, I'd say that's accurate. Here is what the car needs immediately:

- Re-sealed injection pump

- New motor mounts

- New tires

- New fuel filter primer

- A/C retrofit

- Wiper switch

- Taillight circuit board repair

- Probably an oil change

- Door mirror repair/replacement (damaged in shipping)

Thomas disclosed all of this before the sale. I know we're a tight community anyway, but I just wanted to say that he is very honest and you should have no reservations about ever buying a car from him

A few noteworthy things about the car:

- It is only the second XD3T I've ever seen that not only has its original #2 electronic fuel injector holder, but it is leak-free

- It is clearly the later XD3T because it has the reinforced cylinder head with the exposed ribbing in the casting around the head bolts

- The speedometer needle doesn't wiggle. But they are Veglia instruments which seem better than Jaeger in that regard

- It's one of the very few XDs I've encountered that seems to be entirely free of oil leaks (for now anyway, haha)

My goal is to first fix the mechanical issues and then move on to a cosmetic restoration. I want to paint the car black or a color similar to that. I'm thinking Honda "Nighthawk Black Pearl". My '07 TL Type-S was that color and I loved it. Looks black except in bright sunlight where the dark blue pearl starts to come through. I want to have the upholstery re-dyed if possible and I kind of want a black or very dark gray headliner.

I intend to keep the engine stock, just in a very good state of tune. I may do something custom (albeit quiet) with the exhaust. There's already a small leak in the "split" rear muffler arrangement, so I have the perfect excuse. I think I will also replace the mechanical vacuum pump with an electric unit. To free up a small amount of power and reduce drag on the engine, I'm considering adapting an electric power steering pump. This would also allow for variable assist with some custom electronics.

I would like to address the shifter. I know some of you hate to hear me drone on about Honda's strengths (the situation is reversed on Honda/Acura forums), but I've been completely spoiled by their manual transmissions. However I think there's hope for the clunky BA10/5 and it's floppy shifter. First, get rid of the rubber. Shorten the shifter inside the car, and somehow shorten the shift levers on the transmission (this may involve simply moving the attachment points for the shift rods closer to the fulcrum). If I can get shorter throws and more of a toggle-switch feel, I think I'll be happy.

[tommy kinder]

ahh thanks Joe people are going to think im honest now lol jkjk i cant wait to see the car come together ill have to see if i can change the owner to you in the vehicle registry and allow you to make changes to it from now on same thing with the Google doc registry that will have to be changed as well ill have to keep up on this thread often

[andrethx]

joe -- looking forward to seeing your progress! this car has a tan interior, correct? i don't know if i've ever seen a stock 505 in black with a tan interior...maybe some of the other members can comment? it should look pretty great.

tommy -- regarding the ownership change in the garage/registry -- pretty sure you can't do it yourself, but rabin or i can do it. please confirm that you want this done. it's this car, correct?

andré

[tulaweb]

- It is only the second XD3T I've ever seen that not only has its original #2 electronic fuel injector holder, but it is leak-free

The other one is still leak free

I had trouble with the injector pump leaking but I have been using

Stanadyne Lubricity Formula and there is only the very slightest weep left. For a while I was finding a significant puddle under the car every morning and now not a drop.

http://www.thedieselstore.com/template/productOutput.php?partNum=ADD38559

I did also find one place to get fuel that dramatically reduces the leaking. I have no idea what it is about that fuel that apparently swells the seals but clearly it does. Until I take a trip and have to get fuel elsewhere I can't be sure how much the additive is responsible for stopping the leak, but it's definitely leaking much less since I started using it.

[Bean]

As always Joe - I'm very stoked to hear how this project progresses!

Registry: I can either edit the existing one and change ownership to Joe, or Joe can enter a new entry and I can delete Tommy's. Whatever works best is fine with me.

Colour: My first ever 505 Turbo experience was when my uncle (Surgeon) bought a brand new 1985 505 Turbo, and that car was black on tan velour IIRC - absolutely stunning when new, and that first drive just blew me away with how good that car was. My sister also had a black on tan velour 85' STI - so it was likely quite popular... My sister's car became Black Hazzard after it was TL'd - we cut of the trunk, stripped it down, and ran ice and dirt events with it for a couple years.

Rabin

[tommy kinder]

yes Andre that is the correct car i also sold my 84 turbo diesel the Winchester grey one i already changed it on the Google doc registry

[my3AWDgst]

Pictures or it didn't happened :-)

[JunktionFET]

I've been chatting with Rabin's injection pump guru called Jeremy about getting one or both of the IPs resealed and reset. I started the conversation before I actually got the car. He is very friendly, knowledgeable, and was enthusiastic about the project. However, now that I'm ready to send the pumps off, he's gotten into a crunch and is in the process of moving. As a result, I've had to look elsewhere.

Amazingly, I found a shop in a south Raleigh suburb known for its industrial parks and shops. If you want something chrome plated, anodized, CNC machined, etc, this town is the place to go. Their ballpark quote for a VE rebuild and reseal (assuming it needs no replacement parts) matched Jeremy's very reasonable fee, so I went down there to check them out this afternoon.

The moment I took the pump out of the bag, the guy saw the drive spline and said "oh wow, a Peugeot". I knew they were good at that point

So now one of the pumps is in their hopefully-capable hands. He suspects it will be done early next week. If it comes back golden, I'll have the other one repaired and try to sell it to anyone needing a fresh XD3T pump

[Bean]

Him recognizing the pump by sight is GOLD!

Jeremy is an awesome guy, and I hope to be able to test his mods out this fall when I get the pump installed.

One thing I was really hoping to do was to get the IP dyno'd to ensure the pump had balanced output across the injectors, but the one guy I wanted to do it refused without him rebuilding the pump himself.

If your shop can dyno the IP, you'll have that advantage of ensuring the pump is balanced as well.

Are you getting injectors rebuilt with new nozzles too?

Rabin

[JunktionFET]

Yep they are going to bench balance the pump for me.

I'm going to buy Kent's injector tester from MercedesSource so I can tinker with injectors myself. And I think I want to try some NOS SD240/ nozzles and see how they do in terms of noise.

The AAZ conversion is intriguing, but pricey and a bit experimental for what is ultimately a stock restoration.

[Bean]

I've got 2 Bosch injector testers that need restoring - been keeping an eye open on and off for replacement fuel reservoirs for them.

Curious if you're going to stick with stock pop pressures or if you're going to up it some for improved performance?

As for my AAZ conversion - its a total gamble. I did my research though, and the idea is sound so it should have decent results, but wether or not it was worth the time and money will be another discussion.

Rabin

[JunktionFET]

Stock pressure for the XD3Ts (Fed and Cali) is 150 bar. I may go as high as 155 (initially a bit higher since the pressure slumps a bit after break in). I've read that going too high can adversely affect the "plume" and atomization, and cause some parasitic power loss from the pump.

I don't see why your AAZ project won't work. You've covered all the bases. I'm anxious to see how it works out

[Bean]

I didnt realize the factory setting was that high already - VW guys talked about raising pop preassures to those factory levels to gain some performance.

AAZ project is a lot of fun - pay off will be if my TD wagon will see off my stock N9TE sedan

Big question now is to 5sp swap the wagon or not.

Rabin

[JunktionFET]

Yep, the opening pressure for the injectors changed on the years and based on market. Seems the pressure, nozzle, and pump type all go together.

1980-1982 XD2/XD2C

----------------------------

120+/-5 bar pressure

SD1510 nozzles

R50 pump

1982-1983 XD2C

----------------------

120+/-5 bar

SD1510

R50

1981 XD2S

--------------

130+/-5 bar

SD1510

R67

1982-1983 XD2S

----------------------

130+/-5 bar

SD251

R67

1984-1985 XD2S

---------------------

150+/-5 bar

SD251 (Federal)

SD260 (California)

R112 (Federal)

R131 (California)

XD3T

-------

150+/-5 bar

SD252

R181

Whew...

[JunktionFET]

I found a set of NOS SD240/ nozzle for $20/ea! I'm soo going to order them!

Also before I install the refurbished IP, I'm going to run a can or two of Diesel Purge through the engine since it sat for so long... There is a Napa right down the street from me that stocked it.

The Mercedes engine mount I ordered should arrive early next week (Tuesday?). We'll see if it fits. The passenger side mount on the car looks about like any other 30 year old Peugeot engine mount, but the driver side one is completely blown apart. All of the gel has been pushed out and has made a bit of a sticky mess under there. I suspect the IP leak had a role in destroying that mount, as the leak ends up soaking that mount in diesel fuel.

I've been thinking more about the exhaust system. At first I was going to have my favorite exhaust shop just remove the offending muffler, but on second thought I think I'll have them remove the whole rear section and replace it with a small glasspack or resonator with an understated exhaust tip. On those exhausts, the front muffler (the one under the front seats) does most of the "muffling". The rear two-piece muffler doesn't do a whole lot, so I wouldn't really be making the car obnoxiously loud or boomy. And I'm sure the small reduction in back pressure will be a welcome change for the turbocharger.

[JunktionFET]

While waiting on parts, I did some brainstorming on ways to reduce the "hose farm" appearance under the hood. I came up with the following ideas:

First, replace the mechanical vacuum pump with an electric one. Tuck it somewhere on the driver's side of the engine bay where the climate control reservoir and brake booster live. Run a small vacuum line along the firewall to the EGR solenoids on the passenger's strut tower.

Move the coolant tank to the front LH side of the engine bay, just above/behind the driver's side headlight. This is still a high point, which is good.

The air bleed connection from the radiator wouldn't need a 12 mile long hose running across the engine bay, it would be right there inches away.

The same goes for the air bleed connection from the thermostat housing--a new shorter hose could be neatly routed to the tank.

The double-T fitting in the bottom radiator hose would be relocated nearer to the outlet on the radiator, and the tank's main connection would go there.

The fuel filter coolant return line would be routed beneath the brake booster and battery tray, and connect to the double-T at its new location.

Install the high and low side A/C lines from a 505 Turbo--The low side is a hard line that runs along the firewall, down along the strut tower, and to the A/C compressor. The high side would follow approximately the same path as the fuel filter's coolant return.

This would leave just the boost hose from the intake manifold to the LDA. I'd route a new line around the back of the head.

With all of that, I could say goodbye to all of the hoses randomly criss-crossing the engine with seemingly no rhyme or reason.

[Bean]

I've been thinking the same thoughts on the hose farm and I like the relocation of the coolant tank - never thought of that. I've also purchased a newer style Purflux filter head that doesn't have the coolant heater on it, that way I can eliminate the hoses running to it.

Jeff and I have discussed the elimination of the vacuum pump as well to decrease clatter, but the vacuum routing is another nice touch.

Definitely looking forward to see how it all turns out as I'm quite sure you'll be doing it before me!

Rabin

[JunktionFET]

Yesterday I received the $20 Mercedes motor mount and attempted to test fit it. In doing so I discovered that the driver's side mount on the car was completely blown apart. Most if not all of the gel filling was gone, and the engine was sitting on the power assist ram There is actually a polished area on the aluminum housing from it

At first the bolt holes looked close, but when I removed the remnants of the mount and compared back to back, the discrepancy was more obvious. It would take a bit of custom work I think to make this mount work, but if you're trying to save as much money as possible and are willing to be adventurous, it might be worthwhile.

The problem is that the Mercedes mount is slightly too wide. If you attempt to move the bolt holes inward, either by reaming them with a stepped drill bit or by wallowing them out with a dremel, you quickly reach a point where there is no space to slip the bolt through, much less get a socket or wrench around it. I don't feel there is enough material on the Peugeot block bracket to risk relocating or enlarging the threads there either, but the N9T/ZDJL/ZN3J brackets might be more forgiving.

See the attached pictures to see what I mean

[JunktionFET]

I've possibly struck gold!

I found a vendor in Portugal selling a right side biode headlamp, and he's willing to ship to the US

And then, I found someone selling a left side biode headlamp minus the glass. I emailed him to see if he will also ship to the US

The abundance of happy emoticons pretty much sums up my mood right now!

[andrethx]

[tommy kinder]

i havent even started the hunt for another set of glass headlamps for the white 89 im sure it will be a battle

[Peugeottogo]

Joe, I've experimented with the last round of electric vacuum pumps and have settled for the self regulated GM unit. It currently resides where the oil bath air filtering bowl was located and the remaining space is used for the new updraft air filtering. The GM pump is small enough to tuck behind the left front headlamp assemble and my vacuum reserve reservoir as I may move it to that location.. Noticeable quieter without the mechanical pump and there has to be a measurable gain in horse power, even if it is calculated LOL

I removed all the non functioning egr vacuum equipment too. A lot less clutter so far and continue to experiment with crankcase ventilation.

Haven't had any ill incidents running it this way for 700 or so miles in my mild climate area, The single largest advantage these diesels have with the 5 speed verses the automatic is running temperature. Much cooler without the automatic sharing the already limited cooling capacity.

Having fun with ours, turbo lag is reduced and whistles a much happier tune over our completely stock twin to this one.

[Bean]

Ive got 6 NOS right side biode lights, plan is to figure out to either modify left euro's with the biode reflector and adding the access hole for the bulb - or swapping the right bucket to the left lens extension and modifing the external height bracket so it mounts in the left side.

My plan is for all three projects to be biode equipped...

Rabin

[JunktionFET]

I have a pair of H4 European lights with ruined reflectors. If the guy with the lens-less biode will sell and ship to me, I thought about just using one of my lenses. However, looking at photos it appears that the fresnel etching on the glass is different between the H4 and H4/H1 units. Not sure if that's a deal breaker or not or how badly it would affect the light pattern.

[Bean]

The biodes I have are a different brand than my H4 euro's so comparing lens fluting isn't a proper comparison.

I highly doubt it would make a difference personally.

Prior to finding the biodes in Greece, my plan was to get a couple 504 biode reflectors re-silvered and I was going to install them in 505 buckets. Cost for refurbing reflectors was a pricey proposition though.

Rabin