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Turbo Charged Coolant Bottle


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Well, Deuce has a failed headgasket (combustion to water jacket). Don't have the head off yet . Inasmuch as when the pressure regulator failed I only hit the overboost switch once I doubt it's related to that failure. Talked to Brian Holms and be believes it will be cracked (the relation of the hot exhaust valve to the water passage making it a certain inevitability). He believes that not allowing a complete warm-up of the engine assures the crack will form. Ya well, even though I live half way up the mountain side the chances that I go up the mountain or down are about 50/50 and even then I don't boost the car up the hill (guess one can never say never, but...).

So will keep you guys posted

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post-137-0-79512300-1369340448_thumb.jpg Well, yup. She's cracked. It is level however. So L.A. Machine has done a number of these over the years. Sending it out to get completely checked.

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Just the one? And what do you mean by level? I've never seen an unlevel on - but I've only seen the two in my garage!

It'll be neat to see some after pics once it's repaired.

Rabin

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I probably won't see it again until it's been welded and the seat has been put back in. Level meaning not warped.

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I'm told now that it is cracked between the valves and to the spark plug in #2. So.....................? TK how much for your preped head?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update. Got a "prepared head" for $450 but it turned out to be .012 under and .010 warped. So that could be .022 under at the end. Forget it. Going to use Deuces head as it's full size and never got hot. Cost $550 for head work.

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That's a decent price to get the cracks welded and the head done. Any idea what they use for valve seats? Are you going to take the opportunity to do anything else "while you're at it"?

Rabin

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I'd like to have a round face valve job (as opposed to 3 angle). The idea is that the fuel/air flows past the valves better without the sharp edges. But alas I am but a poor boy (an a fighter by his trade...............) . Beside, when it's turbo charged it will shove the charge past all but the worst obstacles and this is Deuce we're talking about.

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OK, well got Deuce back today. $550 in labor and $850 in parts and services. Feels ok except either the closed throttle switch or the TPS may not be in the right setting as it feels jumpy when just opening the throttle.

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That's not a bad price at all considering the work done. Do you know any of the details of the repair? (IE: How many weld repairs? New valve seats or reused valve seats? How deep the cracks went?)

I will definitely sacrifice the one cracked head I have so that I can try to document the issue, and to see just how far the cracks are propagating. Once I do that, I'd like to have a buddy tig the voids back up and see if the head shop can do new valve seats to essentially rebuilt it myself.

WAY down the todo list - but it's on it.

Rabin

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Hi, Vic, BTDT more times than I'd like to admit. As far as I'm concerned, don't even put it back together unless you're 100% per cent certain the head is flawless. I had an independent machine shop test mine, and then shipped it to Ericsson's where they tested it twice. I have now set a personal record for consecutive days without a blown HG or cracked head.

As for the wastegate failure, there are supposed to be safety shutdowns of the engine, but I do believe you are right: one (1) foray into the world of overboost probably won't break your pistons, but, believe me, continued abuse will break the pistons, and you can not call NAPA for a set. One thing I remember: this is a twenty-two year old car. If I want a performance daily driver I'll buy a twin turbo BMW V6. My boost is set a nine pounds. It's enough.

I do have some orts from the last engine cannibalization: con rod shells (blue), for example.

Good luck.

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Thanks Bill. Yes I actually changed the pistons in the race car twice because of (what turned out to be) broken ring lands and it was never boosted beyond the 9.5 lbs (EVER). However this car is the street car and when the diaphragm broke it hit the overboost switch once and I turned it off. So The cracking in the #2 cylinder was the temp difference between the combustion and the cooling passage. Brian Holms opines that all the turbo heads are destined to do that but Red (the race car) has never done that and it has almost 200K on it (knock of hood). Now that I have the car back it is driving well except for surging on very light throttle. I have check and adjusted both the TPS and the micro switch and the problem still exist. I'll start another thread called "A Hunting We Will Go" and see what the brain trust comes up with. It didn't do that before so it was created during the cylinder head R&R.

Rabin - Haven't allot of intel on the head other than what was originally diagnosed. I know the seats had to come out to address the crack between the valve but it wasn't said whether they were replaced. I'll see what I can find out.

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Whatever you can find out on the head would be awesome. If you'd also be able to post up the shop contact info that would be great. It'd be nice to get some "go to" places for shops that have experience with these crack repairs on these heads.

Current issue: What is your ignition timing set at? I found my car really likes to have stock or just maybe a touch more timing than specified - too much and it really doesn't drive as nice. I'd start there at least.

Rabin

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Timing is everything. I'll check that as the distributor did come out. Not sure timing would make it surge like that but maybe.

Dono (Westside Peugeot in Santa Monica http://www.yelp.com/biz/westside-motors-santa-monica-2) has always been my go to guy as he has been involved with Peugeot for 30+ years and his mechanic has also. Jessie at DuBarr in Hunington Beach is very experience as well. The Machine shop is called L.A. Machine (pronounced La Machine, I guess http://www.yellowpages.com/los-angeles-ca/mip/l-a-crank-engine-rebuilding-1970948) was the Peugeot machine shop back in the day and apparently still has the same people working there.

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I believe the lesson here is to allow a better warm-up than you'd think necessary. Personally I live half way up a mountain side and either begin my day by driving up the hill or down the hill. No I don't boost my cars up the hill at any time but it appears I have to be even more careful than I've been in the past. Funny as one of the few times I've had to race somebody up the hill before going down when the engine was still cold was in Red. Bummed out one Tuner Honda.

Love that old car, ya know.

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I'm sure you know the importance of timing, but, to the uninitiated, the proper setting of the throttle position switch in these cars is of the utmost importance. And, if you read the entire procedure, that involves the proper adjustment of the throttle plate and of the throttle microswitch as well.

I love my "old" SW8 wagon, too. It's hard to keep my foot out of it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Regarding the "Hunting": I knew it had to be something related to the R&R of the head and the TPS, Micro switch and throttle plate are not moved around in that operation, but the distributor was. Why was I given the car back with the timing 2 degrees excessive advance, I do not know. Suffice to say it is back and it's as perfect a Turbo S as one is likely to find and remains my daily driver.

Haven't been able to get intell of the head repair.

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