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My 89 MI16


my3AWDgst
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Center to center spacing of the intake ports is 93mm?

I have parts to do a custom alloy intake for my N9TE, was just curious if that  manifold could be modified instead...  (even for just the plenum part...)

Rabin

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Not much has to be modify as it's direct bolt on. Two holes for dowel pins need to be drilled on intake manifold,hole for throttle is just  little bigger then my DSM N/T throttle body and holes are just about same spacing as DSM. I'll just need to drill 6mm holes to 8mm and tap it to 8x1.25. Also I'll grinned off casting marks like I did on my wagon so it can look smoother.

Almost forgot that I need to weld resonator hole and MAP sensor as I won't be needing those any longer. Ohhh and I need to weld fuel rail brackets as well...another hard working day at SavoSpecs is ahead. 

Then off to powder coater.

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If you have the low compression engine the best power mod you can do is to raise the compression ratio you running e85 so you can take advantages of the octane, with different pistons or cutting the head, i've driven mi16 DFW they are not as responsive and don't have very much torque, if you are opening the top of your engine this is something you may consider.

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On a DFW what you can do is put another exhaust pulley on the intake, alter the intake timing by 1°30' is the only thig they did on the head when making the cat engine. Later they changed the cams and intake pulley on the D6C but that's another story.

The aluminium plate close to the "DFW" one contain the engine serial number and a code to better identify the engine.

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8 hours ago, andrethx said:

very nice! i have been noticed the "clicking"  when i turn my steering wheel all the way to the right or left, so i imagine i will be replacing the axles in the not-to-distant future....i was thinking of going with rebuilt units, i've heard good things about raxles....

I love any OEM axle and I'm not a big fan of rebuilt units,If I was you I would disassemble them,clean them,replace C.V grease,C.V boots and intermediate shaft bearing. I'm pretty sure that will make clicking noise go away and you will be satisfied.

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I agree with keeping the oem axles, i've changed couple axle sets on my father's 405, aftermarket axles simply don't last and you may run in different ABS ring on some of them, its a dirty job to clean them and pack them with grease but parts are cheap and should last you more miles.

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