Bean Posted September 24, 2016 Report Posted September 24, 2016 Just out of curiosity - can you tell me the port spacing on that intake? Definitely a casting work of art! Rabin Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 24, 2016 Author Report Posted September 24, 2016 19 minutes ago, Bean said: Just out of curiosity - can you tell me the port spacing on that intake? Definitely a casting work of art! Rabin Rabin are you talking about ports where intake gasket goes? Quote
SRDT Posted September 24, 2016 Report Posted September 24, 2016 Spacing should be 93mm if all is straight. Can you keep the stiffens plate and still bolt the GTI6 oil pan to the gearbox? Quote
Bean Posted September 24, 2016 Report Posted September 24, 2016 Center to center spacing of the intake ports is 93mm? I have parts to do a custom alloy intake for my N9TE, was just curious if that  manifold could be modified instead...  (even for just the plenum part...) Rabin Quote
SRDT Posted September 24, 2016 Report Posted September 24, 2016 The bore spacig of the XU is 93mm as seems to be the intake ports spacing: With 103,5mm bore spacing on the N9T using only the GTI6 plenum can still be done but could be difficult compared with a straight design. Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 24, 2016 Author Report Posted September 24, 2016 3 hours ago, SRDT said: The bore spacig of the XU is 93mm as seems to be the intake ports spacing: With 103,5mm bore spacing on the N9T using only the GTI6 plenum can still be done but could be difficult compared with a straight design. Well done sir!!! Quote
Goce Posted September 25, 2016 Report Posted September 25, 2016 That looks familiar, i recently cut my mi16 manifold, it also has small trumpets but those are much better, Question are you modifying your intake manifold. Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 25, 2016 Author Report Posted September 25, 2016 Not much has to be modify as it's direct bolt on. Two holes for dowel pins need to be drilled on intake manifold,hole for throttle is just  little bigger then my DSM N/T throttle body and holes are just about same spacing as DSM. I'll just need to drill 6mm holes to 8mm and tap it to 8x1.25. Also I'll grinned off casting marks like I did on my wagon so it can look smoother. Almost forgot that I need to weld resonator hole and MAP sensor as I won't be needing those any longer. Ohhh and I need to weld fuel rail brackets as well...another hard working day at SavoSpecs is ahead. Then off to powder coater. Quote
Goce Posted September 25, 2016 Report Posted September 25, 2016 Savo i've been meaning to ask you how much power is ECMlink predicting on the mi16 engine? Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 26, 2016 Author Report Posted September 26, 2016 Last time I checked it was 185. I'm hopping to see 195 with new modifications,after this I'd love to take it to dyno. Quote
Goce Posted September 27, 2016 Report Posted September 27, 2016 Savo which engine do you have in you 89, the low compression DFW or the high compression D6W, there is a tag plate riveted on the timing mount, is hard to see sometimes? Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 27, 2016 Author Report Posted September 27, 2016 Goce it's US engine so I can assume it's a low compression engine,I was always wondering what was that plate for...now I know :-) Quote
Goce Posted September 27, 2016 Report Posted September 27, 2016 If you have the low compression engine the best power mod you can do is to raise the compression ratio you running e85 so you can take advantages of the octane, with different pistons or cutting the head, i've driven mi16 DFW they are not as responsive and don't have very much torque, if you are opening the top of your engine this is something you may consider. Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 27, 2016 Author Report Posted September 27, 2016 Yes I know all about that Goce,tearing down extremely good engine is not an option. Once this engine fails I'll just swap it to "real engine" AKA 4g63 and make 550 FWHP on stock internals :-) Quote
SRDT Posted September 27, 2016 Report Posted September 27, 2016 On a DFW what you can do is put another exhaust pulley on the intake, alter the intake timing by 1°30' is the only thig they did on the head when making the cat engine. Later they changed the cams and intake pulley on the D6C but that's another story. The aluminium plate close to the "DFW" one contain the engine serial number and a code to better identify the engine. Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Posted September 28, 2016 Built my self spare set of axles for quick replacment. #loweredcarproblems Quote
andrethx Posted September 28, 2016 Report Posted September 28, 2016 very nice! i have been noticed the "clicking" Â when i turn my steering wheel all the way to the right or left, so i imagine i will be replacing the axles in the not-to-distant future....i was thinking of going with rebuilt units, i've heard good things about raxles.... Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Posted September 29, 2016 8 hours ago, andrethx said: very nice! i have been noticed the "clicking" Â when i turn my steering wheel all the way to the right or left, so i imagine i will be replacing the axles in the not-to-distant future....i was thinking of going with rebuilt units, i've heard good things about raxles.... I love any OEM axle and I'm not a big fan of rebuilt units,If I was you I would disassemble them,clean them,replace C.VÂ grease,C.V boots and intermediate shaft bearing. I'm pretty sure that will make clicking noise go away and you will be satisfied. Quote
Goce Posted September 29, 2016 Report Posted September 29, 2016 I agree with keeping the oem axles, i've changed couple axle sets on my father's 405, aftermarket axles simply don't last and you may run in different ABS ring on some of them, its a dirty job to clean them and pack them with grease but parts are cheap and should last you more miles. Quote
my3AWDgst Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Posted September 30, 2016 Spacer plate and oil pick up is on the way to Australia. Quote
Goce Posted October 4, 2016 Report Posted October 4, 2016 Savo i know you are looking for some series 2 parts, this car recently came up for sale, you know the language read the ad : http://reklama5.mk/AdDetails?ad=1809495 Quote
my3AWDgst Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Posted October 6, 2016 Thanks Goce but at the moment I'm really working hard to get my black car back on the road so unfortunately MI16 gonna wait If I can get a good deal on Euro bumper I may bite but that's about it. Â Quote
my3AWDgst Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Posted October 6, 2016 Goce would you know if anyone is making rear alignment shims for 405? I could try to use VW or Ford one but I'd like to look for easier solution. Quote
Goce Posted October 6, 2016 Report Posted October 6, 2016 Not sure if you mean on sims that you put behind the wheel bearing, if your thinking of them, i think is impossible, because the wheel bearing bolt (stud) is press thru the cast swing arm. Quote
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