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'88 505 Turbo S - I could use some help


505 Rob

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I have a '88 505 Turbo that was given to me by an old man on a farm. According to him the car had been parked for about 6 years. He originally bought it for his son but he broke the transmission and left it. Old man put in new trans and then it got stolen, ignition and stereo ripped out. It was recovered by the police and Old Man just left it out in his field. I found it by accident buried under weeds almost hit it with the tractor. Long story short Old Man said I could have it.

I was going to scrap it but felt I should at least try to get it started. Two days later Success!

Now the problems:

1. They don't make parts anymore.

2. They are not found in any of the local junk yards.

3. I need a wiring diagram, it is a mess. I wired the fuel pump to the ignition which is a tractor switch and it works the headlights too. Don't know why?

4. I could use a repair manual, I found some online but all seem to skip my year and model.

Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

Located in South East, Colorado - USA

Pictures later today.

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welcome, rob!

what are your goals -- what would you like to end up with? do you want a daily driver, do you want to sell the car, etc. knowing this would help us give you advice. generally, though, lots of parts are available for these cars, it's just a matter of knowing where to look and what to look for. many of the mechanicals are common to other (less rare) european cars. lots of us here on the forums are happy to help fellow owners, so let us know which particular things you need and we will try to point you in the right direction.

there is a haynes manual for our cars that one often sees sold on ebay and elsewhere, it's better than nothing but not especially useful. peugeot published a series of great factory manuals for the 505 that are worth having if you plan on keeping the car and working on it yourself. one of our friends in finland has many of the factory manuals available for download, but sadly this doesn't include the electrical manual....this is probably because the factory electrical manuals have lots of oversized, fold-out circuit diagrams which are difficult to scan.

i have a 1986 model, so none of my factory electrical manuals include anything past that year (generally speaking, the later manuals are harder to find). but a diagram from a 1986 turbo would probably still be useful to you. i will try to scan the applicable diagram with the ignition switch in it (i.e., the stuff that probably got ripped out when the car was stolen) for you over the next few days.

look forward to the pics!

andré

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Rob, parts are available from several places:

Peugeot Holm in NH

Javal Garage Courtier in Dallas

Parts Network in Houston (I think)

See the Vendors section of this very website: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/forum/22-vendors/

Also check out Western Hemispheres in Cali

There is also a nationwide mechanics list found here: http://myplace.frontier.com/~peugeot/mechanics

Please also sign up with the Peugeot Yahoogroup, lots of great help to be found there!

Good luck!

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Questions so far look answered - so post up if you'd like clarifications.

As for words of wisedom - if you don't scrap it, get the gas tank acid cleaned at a rad shop, and reverse flush the fuel lines from the rail back with the fuel filter out, then install a new fuel filter. 6 years in Colorado will be similar to 6 years in Saskatchewan and I bet the tank has some corrosion.

How many miles are on the car? ABS still intact? Automatic or manual? I know - pics are coming... :)

I'm also curious if you have much experience with european cars, or if you like them in the least bit? All the tune up stuff on your engine is readily available since it uses a VW distributor cap, not positive on the rotor but likely a VW part as well since they're both Bosch units. Same deal with the plugs - easily obtained locally.

If you do get it to go, and the car is in decent shape - you'll be rewarded with one of the best sport sedan suspensions from the 80's, and it still shames a LOT of new cars to this day. Same with brakes - they're fantastic when sorted out.

Rabin

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Thanks again for your insight,

I would like to restore the car as much as possible and keep it. My younger brother liked the car so in time I plan on giving it to him when he graduates in six months.

As of right now the cars runs strong and I haven't found any leaks. Besides a full tune up, the car will need is break pads, rotors x 4, ignition switch, stereo, and possibly rewiring the head lights with the switch.

Miles: 100,xxx+

ABS: Haven't tested it yet. Old man said it he had a new Master Cylinder placed in it. I think it might not be OEM. You can see it in the picture.

Manual - 5 Speed

This will be my first European car! Seem interesting and car looks to hold some promise.

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Nice shop!

The car has some pretty ghetto farmer hacks in it - brake master is not a Peugeot one which means the ABS is removed. I'd be very wary on what kind of master was used, since it will have a different brake bias. It'll stop of course - but how well will need to be figured out.

If the car still has the 2pc struts the ABS cars had, then the front rotors are NLA - or just really really expensive. Early 944 Porsche rotors would be the easiest to make work - but you'll need to get some machining done to either the rotors to fit the Peugeot hubs, or to the hubs to fit the 944 rotors.

I'd ensure the car runs really well before addressing all the other stuff - and if it does, then start spending money on the brakes and wiring.

Rabin

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+1 on everything rabin said. the front brake rotors are going to be your biggest sourcing headache, the OE pieces are super-rare and very expensive when they *are* available (US$800-$1,000 for the pair!). the later 505 v6 and higher-line turbo models (like yours) used the teves mark 2 abs system, which is an "integrated" system -- the master brake cylinder, ABS modulator and pump are integrated into one assembly usually called the ABS block (not done anymore because it was complicated & expensive). the good news is, lots of other cars used this system, and many of them were sold in the US. so it may be possible to get, say, an ABS block from another car and use it in your 505 if you are not able to find one from a donor 505. i say "may be" because i'm not aware of anyone in the US who's done this... :)

to replace the radio, you are going to need the radio bezel, which on the the series 2 505s (essentially, '86 - on) looks like this:

IMG_8050_zpsdffb6004.jpg

IMG_8051_zps1ee401b5.jpg

that metal bracket holds what we would now call a single-DIN chassis.

still working on the wiring diagram scans...

andré

edit: here are the scanned pages from the electrical manual

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello everyone,

Here an update on my progress.

Car runs mechanically strong no problems or leaks, it just doesn't like to stop. I decided to rebuild breaks that were on the car to save some money because yes new they are very expensive. The ones I did find moderately priced seemed like a huge gamble coming from an online store in the Philippines.

Also does anyone have our know where to get a CV Boot, Rear Axel both. I haven't had much luck with the Vendors still waiting on J Garage. Maybe a quick repair tip?

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when you say "rebuild the brakes that were on the car" -- do you mean re-install/replace all of the ABS stuff, or install a non-ABS braking system? each option has it's own particular challenges. did you find ABS rotors on sale in the philippines? ABS rotors are 283 mm in diameter with eight mounting holes and regular 505 rotors are 273 mm in diameter with 4 mounting holes...

as for the rear axel/cv boot question, that's another sourcing difficulty with the late-model turbo & v6 cars. i know rabin has been working on this exact issue lately, maybe he has some updated info? also, paraic just did this with his v6...

andré

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CV axles: I found a replacement boot for the axle from a Renault that's available and looks to be a perfect fit, but the problem is the metal sleeve that needs to come off to fit the boot on.

Factory kits came with a replacement sleeve, and you cut the old ones off. I need to figure out a way to cut off, and still reuse if the idea is to work. Once cut, you should be able to disassemble the tripod joint, clean it all up, fit the new boot, and reassemble. Kicker is that sleeve. I'll post the part number tomorrow with hopefully some pics.

Brian Holm had 3 axles, I bought two and Paraic got the other. Used will be your best shot if you can find them...

Another consideration I had was to use the older 505 axle which fits no problem, but it doesn't have the tone ring for the ABS. If had a connection to a machinist my plan B was to have a piece machined that would press onto the old style shaft that the tone ring could be pressed onto.

Rabin

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I am just cleaning and reusing the same parts the car already had (NON ABS as it had been removed previously and it now has a brake master). I found that my problem mostly came from rust and the E-brake cable. Also the Axel is still in good working condition, no noise or grinding just the boots have sprung a leak since the car was parked for so long without care. You can see in one of the attached pictures.

Pictures :)

post-1323-0-59135900-1357588927_thumb.jppost-1323-0-00729100-1357588952_thumb.jppost-1323-0-07850400-1357588972_thumb.jppost-1323-0-41138400-1357588989_thumb.jppost-1323-0-02758600-1357589836_thumb.jp

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Sorry Rob, I'll get you that boot number tonight. Things have been hectic since New Year's eve when we hit a deer in my wife's car. Everyone is OK - but been researching on repair and replacement options...

Really great work you're doing there too! Glad you're able to just take stuff apart to figure out what's wrong and rebuilt what's there, so you're the perfect Peugeot owner! If you look at the big end of the boot, where it's clamped on is the sleave that needs to come off so that you can get to the end of the shaft to disassemble it.

This sleeve is usually cut off and the replacement kit comes with another - if we can figure out how to remove and reattach it - changing the boots will cheap and easy. Problem is that it's crimped onto the stub. Idea so far is to use a pipe cutter that will make a sharp cut in the sleeve all the way around (like you'd cut a copper pipe), once cut through you would be able to disassemble, but where I'm not sure is how to reattach the sleeve.. Wrap another band of steel and tack welding or something would work as long as you could seal it well enough.

That said - since it doesn't have ABS, it will be easy and cheap to use the older style axle. Should be plenty of used ones around for decently cheap.

Rabin

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  • 5 months later...

Any updates?

Also curious if you're planning on going to PPIHC at all this year? I'm driving down in my 89' 505 turbo with 1-2 friends, and hopefully meeting a couple other Peugeot enthusiasts. Be cool if your 505 was up for the trip too!

Since your car is an 88' - it's the 25 year anniversary of Ari Vatanen's PPIHC win in the 406T16, so your car would be particularly cool to have there. :)

Rabin

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