Jump to content

Polishing oxidized paint


N9TE

Recommended Posts

I'd start with Menzerna SIP and go to their Power Gloss if that doesn't work. Finishing up with 106FA (Final Finish). Mind you there are always more than one ways to skin a cat. Know guys that swear by Megs products, others with Surbuf pads, flex rotaries, etc. I'm not religious on any product line, but I do use Menz for polishing these days and Collenite for wax.

Significant correction can be tough with a DA. But, I got strike through on a 85 Cressida once so it is possible.

Ask away if you have any questions about your planned methodology. Usually, Peugeots are single stage. If it was re-painted in the 80s or 90s, it probably is a single stage. If you have a single stage lacquer then it can look outstanding after a nice correction.

Trick is to set up your polish so you can back the car out into the sun as needed to carefully check your work. And take breaks. I find, after a couple of hours, everything looks the same. Walk away for 15 minutes do you can get fresh eyes. You'll see things you were too glazed over to see before. Also, lighting is everything. But, in sunny CA, you should have the best lighting you can get.

Can't wait 'till HD comes out with their Nitro sealant. Most of my cars are parked outside and that does take it's toll.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sure. It's a good idea and would reduce thread hijackification.

Watch out on a 3000 rotary. The highest the pro's I know only go to about 1800 on a Makita. Although Dual Action (DA) machines reduce the risk of strike through a lot, rotaries are the tool where you can strike through in seconds if you get too aggressive. As they say in those circles, it's not a matter IF you're going to strike through with a rotary, it's WHEN.

A learning process.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was almost right with the specs: 1000 - 3000 no load variable speed, with an adjustable preset rpm control (trigger stop I'm guessing). It's not a DA, but I think with practice it should be fine. I've got a couple 505 turbos, and my 504 is SERIOUSLY oxidized. I figure - like Andre - I'll just practice on these cars so that I can delay full repaints for a few years.

Once I'm good with them - then I'll have at the 89 with the nice paint.

BTW: Once I find the time I'll create a new area and move the off topic posts there. :)

Rabin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Random notes on this thread:

I use a product called Wet & Wild for waxing my race cars. Leaves a nice, slick shiny surface. Seems to remove some oxidation when used with a low speed buffer as well. A friend who restores car and does maintenance/repair plus paint/body work turned me on to it. If its good enough for his customers Ferarri Daytona, Osca, Healey 100M, XK120L and XKSS its good enough for my Miata and 505!

Years ago I used Blue Corral on a customers Ferrari 275 GTS. What a pain, I've never used clay to clean a car since.

The door seals should be easily sourced in bulk at any local auto body supply house. Its generic "U" shaped slip on the seem type with a "D" shaped foam seal section. My car is dark blue and the seals are black.

I've got Turbo springs and will contact you off site as I'd like to move them on. I'm moving in 30 days and don't want to schlep them across town!

Bryan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...