Ikenna Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Hi all, Am really a happy man today. The car, which was supposed to arrive last Wednesday, 19/01/2011, instead arrived today, 21/01/2011, at 7.30pm. I will tell the full story, with some pictures attached tomorrow morning. I couldnt take pics cos its night already. It has finally become a reality that am a 505 V6 owner!! Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 That's great, congratulations. I've been following your story here and on aussiefrogs.com, so it's good to hear that there is a happy ending. Looking forward to the pictures! Andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geo Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 That's great, congratulations. I've been following your story here and on aussiefrogs.com, so it's good to hear that there is a happy ending. Looking forward to the pictures! Andre Great news! Congratulations. -George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushgo Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 Great news! Congratulations. -George YAAAAY! I had a '88 V6 and loved it. sadly it was hit and totaled. thank god I was in that car cuz they are made like TANKS and I walked away with out a scratch. Congrats my friend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 Can't wait for the pics! BTW - was it mentioned if the car was an auto or a 5sp? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushgo Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 Can't wait for the pics! BTW - was it mentioned if the car was an auto or a 5sp? Rabin Bean, I think i saw another thread somewhere when he was having problems with black smoke coming from exhaust, I THINK he mentioned it was a 5spd???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Hi everyone. Well, like i said, it arrived safely on Friday, 21/01/2011, at exactly 7.30pm. When I saw the car from afar,from the way the car looks, i felt so happy and proud to own such a car. As soon as i got to the car, I quickly dashed to the engine bay. Behold!! The ZN3J, the 2.8 ltr even-fire PRV engine was starring back at me. I was overjoyed. Though, it was dark, but I could see and hear the engine roaring like a Lion, the King of the Lions!! On driving it home, I realised that it was a coverted car. That is, originally, it was either GTI or GTD Turbo, but now with ZN3J (V6) engine in the engine bay. It isnt a standard 505 V6. Yes, I felt disappointed knowing this at such a time. I felt bad not because i didnt like the car, but because i wont enjoy all the specifications/features V6 had. The instrument cluster isnt 505 V6 own, it is the GTI type, which is very annoying. No ABS and variable ratio power steering. Just the conventional brake and power steering. It has A/C anyway, still in good condition. The 15'' alloy wheels on it isnt the V6 type, rather the GTI type. I really realised then the need for one to first see a car with your very two eyes before purchasing, not what you are told. But at a point, it occured to me that it could be a blessing in Disguise. I have heard so much about how difficult it is to repair Teves Mark II ABS. Also the vented ABS front brake disc scarcity issue. The only two things i would have love to have in that car is the V6 instrument cluster and probably, the variable ratio Power steering. But honestly, each time i hear the ZN3J roaring, i forget all about what the car lacks. I love that impressive noise. Today, i took it to a mechanic workshop to have the Differential replaced for me, due to noise it was making yesterday. After the replacement, i test drived it, but something else started making terrible noise under the car while the car was gaining speed, which couldnt be the Differential this time. The mechanic while replacing the diff for me noted that the propeller shaft head has been replaced by the previous owner. That it would be better if i would replace the entire propeller shaft. Maybe, the culprit now is the propeller shaft. Maybe the mechanic didnt install the differetial properly. Or maybe, its the hub centre bearing. Because it was already dark, i couldnt dive back to the mechanic workshop to lay my complain. I drove it home in that condition. But it wasnt affecting the car speed. The noise and vibration started when the car speed exceeded 100km/h. Immediately, I stopped accelating and neutralised the gear. The noise stopped. But after a while, the noise continued, even though i wasnt accelerating anymore. Another problem the car has is it misfires and stalls while idling, especially when you want to add more gas or rev a little bit. I wouldnt know if it has to do with the injectors, spark pugs or the air filter. Its no longer emitting black smoke. Also while idling, the sound will be going up and down continuously. I didnt have time to look into what might be the cause and fix it because of the differential replacement, which took the whole day at the workshop. I noticed in the engine bay that some of the wiring connectors were left unconnected by those that made the conversion. I just hope that wont be the cause of the misfiring, hesitating and stalling of the engine. You see, of all the faults i have mentioned above, the car still impress me. The way and manner the engine responds to acceleration, its very impressive. In fact, 4 words to describe the car "It Goes Like Rocket " Attached below are some of the car pictures i took at home this morning and at the mechanic workshop, while the work was going on. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 That looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 More pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 more pics. Please, note that the car was so dirty when i took the pics. i havent washed the car since it arrived yesterday.Its very dirty, both the engine bay and the body. I needed to replace the diff before doing the cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Final pics Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Well, the car looks like it had a clean engine swap. Is this from Europe? I would love to test out a 505 on the roads of Africa. My Nigerian friend's father has a several 504s and other old Peugeots in Nigeria. He has told me that he can get me some Euro/African 505 pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeot Steve Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Love the car and enjoyed reading your posts. I have a cool American Headlamp assembly and grill if ya want to trade? I've been lookin for the 'Euro' style headlights. It will be rare for me to have those...and rare for you to have mine!! If you bought replacements, where would you shop? insert website here;___________________. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Hey Ikenna! Thought I'd pop in to say I've been following your story too! Great to see that your car has arrived and you are a thrilled Peugeot owner! No time to waste I see in getting things fixed to your liking. Need not worry, very few Peugeot's will go far without at least some annoyance acting up to keep you interested in this marque! Happy motoring in your new ride, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 I took the car to a mechanic workshop, to diagnose the noise coming from the propeller tube when the car is on speed. The mechanic discovered that the propeller tube centre bearing had spoilt. And that the two heads of the propeller shaft had been replaced with nockle heads. so he suggested that i also replaced the propeller shaft, incase it was the cause of the center bearing failure, i.e, that the replaced heads were not straightened properly while replacing them. So, i gave him a spare propeller shaft, from a donor car 505 Series 1, to replace with the ones in the vehicle. He also changed the centre bearing. After the work, i tried to move the car, but the two rear wheels werent making any move. Only for someone else to blame the mechanic for not checking the lenght of the shaft before replacing/installing it in the tube. According to the man, the 505 Turbo/V6 propeller shaft and tube is longer than the other 505s. After wasting so much money and time, i will have to look for turbo propeller shaft, buy and still pay for the replacement. Its very annoying! Though, another mechanic i asked said that the failure of the centre bearing had nothing to do with previous propeller shaft in the car tube. That i should ask the mechanic to put back the previous shaft, since i have already changed the centre bearing, which he believed was the cause of the noise. So please, is he right? Or should i go ahead and buy another right sized proppeller shaft? Or should i removed the two nockle heads on the previous propeller in the car and remove the shorter one heads and weld them on the longer shaft? Another issue the car is having is that when the engine is cold, it misfires a little and stalls when trying to accelerate. Also, while idling, the sound goes up and down. But everything stops once the engine warms up. A friend of mine advised me to clean the Idle air control valve, whcih i did yesterday. But havent seen much improvement. Someone suggested that i should clean all the injectors, to fix the problem. But remember, these problems varnishe once the engine is warm. The engine then revs and sounds smoothly. Please, what could be the fault? Rabin, others, please help! Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Driveshaft: Only way to make sure the driveshaft was fixed properly is to spin it on a lathe to ensure it's true. If you can find a machine shop that can also check and ensure that shaft is balanced - then that will definitely rule out the shaft so that you can re-install it. Any place that could machine the shaft and weld new ends on had better be able to balance them, and test for them being true. (True = straight) As for your idle issue, a hot motor is more forgiving of bad injectors, so I would suspect injectors as well. I would also suggest checking for vacuum leaks as rubber hoses may leak slightly when cold, but once hot they soften up and seal better. Unlikely - but a good excuse to check all the vacuum lines. Cheap to replace yourself if you find ones that are cracked or loose. If just the end is cracked, just snip the end off and reattach. Might be a good idea to check spark plugs, and ensure they were gapped properly. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Driveshaft: Only way to make sure the driveshaft was fixed properly is to spin it on a lathe to ensure it's true. If you can find a machine shop that can also check and ensure that shaft is balanced - then that will definitely rule out the shaft so that you can re-install it. Any place that could machine the shaft and weld new ends on had better be able to balance them, and test for them being true. (True = straight) As for your idle issue, a hot motor is more forgiving of bad injectors, so I would suspect injectors as well. I would also suggest checking for vacuum leaks as rubber hoses may leak slightly when cold, but once hot they soften up and seal better. Unlikely - but a good excuse to check all the vacuum lines. Cheap to replace yourself if you find ones that are cracked or loose. If just the end is cracked, just snip the end off and reattach. Might be a good idea to check spark plugs, and ensure they were gapped properly. Rabin For the propeller shaft, I will discuss with the mechanic tomorrow morning on how & where the shaft straightness can be tested, before looking for replacement, as you suggested. There are so many hoses on that ZN3J, even those unreachable with hands. I have checked the ones i could reach my hands to, but havent seen any lesk. I will keep looking. I have also bought Carburretor cleaner which i intend to clean the injectors with the coming the weekend. About the spark plug, the gap no is not stated in the 505 V6 owners manual and ZN3J workshop manual. Only the spark plug type where stated (Both the Catalytized & non-catalytized ). Is the gap the same with other 505 I4 engine spark plug gap? Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@nite Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 gap should be .024, yes the gap are the same as a 504 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 UPDATE: I made a terrible mistake on Friday, which am yet to forgive myself. Everyone advised me to re-use the propeller shaft, since the failed Tube centre bearing had been replaced. But i was stupid to listen to the mechanic, who was insisting that i replace the splines on the propeller shaft, even though i asked him to take it to where they would check if it was bent or not, which he didnt. I unwillingly let him had his way, by giving him the go ahead to remove the splines, which he said didnt look straight. Only for me to drive test the car after the terrible job was done and the whole car was vibrating and making grinding noise. unlike before the replacement of the bearing and splines, when only noise you could be heard, no vibration no matter the speed of the car. But that Friday, the vibration too much that it wouldnt even allow the car to gain speed. I kept blaming myself the whole of Friday for not heeding to people's advice to re-use the shaft without altering anything. So much pain i caused myself and my baby! I have no other option than to purchase another turbo propeller shaft, which someone promised to get for me, in the Eastern part of the country, Anambra state, where i grew up and where you can get any auto part, no matter the age, make or model of the vehicle in question, since the turbo shaft is available here in Abuja (FCT), where i work and live. But am so confused. Could it only be the bent propeller that is the making the car to vibrate? What of the replaced Tube centre bearing? Who knows if that moron installed it properly? The A/C technician fixed my A/C well which was leaking freon. But the unsteady idling of the car wouldnt let me enjoy the A/C. While the AC was on, each time i accelerate & release the throttle pedal, the engine would go off/stall when the pedal returns. Even when the AC was not on, if i throttle and release the pedal, the engine would want to go off, but would recover and contnue idling, but the sound would be going up and down, likewise the sound of the fuel pump. I have turned the black knub on the throttle unit, yet the problem remains. Yesterday, i decided to replace the coolant temperature sensor (NTC). When i brought out the sensor, water didnt come out immediately, instead, it was air. It took some seconds before water started coming out. Why the air? I then open the breed screw on ther upper radiator hose, but no water was coming out either. So I started adding more water directly in the radiator (I still intend to drain & refill with coolant), but no water was coming out from the hole on the upper radiator hose yet. Though, the coolant extension container is not in the engine bay, but the absence of it shoudnt be the cause of this. What could be the cause of this then? Also, could it be that the airlock/airpocket in the cooling system wouldnt allow the NTC sensor to function, preventing it from sending signal to ECU? Why wouldnt water be in the upper radiator hose? I even started the car to see if the thermostart would open and flow water through the upper hose back to radiator, so that air would escape from the bleeder screw hole, but i didnt see anything. I also noticed that sometimes while accelerating, the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster would jump up and down as rev counter/tachometer does. Anyway, I have suspended replacing the NTC sensor, since am not sure its faulty. Though, i tried few Peugeot shops around my house, but they were just starring at the sensor, meaning, ZN3J was a mystery to them. I will try Volvo shops next time, if there is need to replace the sensor. The same yesterday, I also tried to correct the unsteady idling of the car by checking the 6 spark plugs. While the engine was idling, i removed each of the leads which caused the engine to rough idled and vibrated, indicating that all the spark plugs and leads are in good condition, i guess. I tried to remove the injectors and clean them, but found it difficult removing them. I let them be. I need advised on how to fix this unsteady idling proplem pls. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I have a good, clean, ready to install torque tube from a 1986 505 Turbo. If you do not have any luck finding the one you need I would be happy to sell my spare. Shipping is not a problem from the US as I've shipped worldwide. As for the misfire and running problem, here are my thoughts: As Rabin suggested, you want to check the vacuum lines, air intake hoses and so on. You can spray carb cleaner on all the hoses. A leak will show up with a change in the idle. Next, remove all 6 plugs and replace them. They are cheap. Then inspect the cap and rotor for wear and corrosion and cracks. Again, this might be worth changing our for new parts. You made a good start with pulling plug wires to make sure they fire. You will want to check them for cracks and so on. Add a can of Chevron Techron fuel injection cleaner to the gas tank. It is by far the best "add to tank" fuel injection cleaner I have ever found. It is a proven product. A new air filter may be in order as well. You need to add coolant! The temp gauge rising and falling is a sign of an air pocket in the cooling system. Real damage can happen as your engine is trying to overheat. Do this before anything else. Then check for leaks. I'm not sure about any cleaning method you can do by hand having much effect. There are high pressure cleaning devices but I've not seen one of those in years. You may be better off replacing them, not a cheap proposition. Try Techron a few times first. Lastly, find yourself an experienced mechanic that knows european cars. Get to know him (or her) well. Throwing parts at your car is only going to waste money, time and effort and possibly damage it beyond your check books capability. Good luck! Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Add a can of Chevron Techron fuel injection cleaner to the gas tank. It is by far the best "add to tank" fuel injection cleaner I have ever found. It is a proven product. Ikenna, Techron is indeed awesome; I've had good experience with it when I bought some bad fuel. "Techron" is Chevron's (American oil company) trade name for polyether amine (PEA), which is an excellent fuel additive. Don't know if Chevron products are available in your part of the world, you should look for something that has high percentage of PEA (50%). Andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Ikenna, Techron is indeed awesome; I've had good experience with it when I bought some bad fuel. "Techron" is Chevron's (American oil company) trade name for polyether amine (PEA), which is an excellent fuel additive. Don't know if Chevron products are available in your part of the world, you should look for something that has high percentage of PEA (50%). Andre Andre, unfortunately, the only additive you can find in Nigeria is ABRO injector cleaner. I wouldnt know how good it is. Do you know anything about the product, cos is massively available in all crannies of the country. Bryan, I will do as you suggested, with regards to the running engine problem. As for the torque tube, am only looking for propeller shaft, not the tube. Someone will check it out for me in the eastern part of the Nigeria where i strongly believe will be available. I have already started looking for a Volvo mechanic for the engine, since Volvo 760 GLE used the same even-fire PRV engine (B280). Thanks. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Ikenna, I know a little bit about a lot of subjects -- my knowledge is wide but not particularly deep! I will tell you what I know, perhaps someone more knowledgeable can suggest a good course of action for you. Before PEA, most additives (fuel additives & injector cleaners) were based on older chemistry, PBA or solvents. They could help in some situations but not others -- depends on your problem. The newer PEA-based additives are more of a "silver bullet" solution, they fix a wider range of fuel-related problems; the main downside of PEA seems to be that it costs more. So additives that have PEA usually mention it since it's a costly feature -- they'll tout that they contain PEA (or one of its many trade names, see wikipedia). Put another way, if it doesn't specifically say it contains PEA, it probably doesn't. ABRO products have been on the market for a while and I don't think they contain PEA, most likely a "conventional" or "old school" product. So I guess the question for the "gearheads" reading this is, would a conventional injector cleaner be beneficial in this situation...I have no idea! It is ironic that you live in a country that is a major oil producer, yet the petroleum products you can get are somewhat limited! I hope, at least, that your motor fuel is of good quality and reasonably priced... Andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Ikenna, I know a little bit about a lot of subjects -- my knowledge is wide but not particularly deep! I will tell you what I know, perhaps someone more knowledgeable can suggest a good course of action for you. Before PEA, most additives (fuel additives & injector cleaners) were based on older chemistry, PBA or solvents. They could help in some situations but not others -- depends on your problem. The newer PEA-based additives are more of a "silver bullet" solution, they fix a wider range of fuel-related problems; the main downside of PEA seems to be that it costs more. So additives that have PEA usually mention it since it's a costly feature -- they'll tout that they contain PEA (or one of its many trade names, see wikipedia). Put another way, if it doesn't specifically say it contains PEA, it probably doesn't. ABRO products have been on the market for a while and I don't think they contain PEA, most likely a "conventional" or "old school" product. So I guess the question for the "gearheads" reading this is, would a conventional injector cleaner be beneficial in this situation...I have no idea! It is ironic that you live in a country that is a major oil producer, yet the petroleum products you can get are somewhat limited! I hope, at least, that your motor fuel is of good quality and reasonably priced... Andre Really, is very ironic that in a major oil producer like us, Nigeria, it cost fortune to fuel a car, not to talk of filling the Tank. About the quality of the fuel, only God can save us on that. Thats why corruption has eaten deep into the economy of the country, starting from the leaders, the so called Politicians. Back to my car, am begining to suspect something as being the cause of the unsteady idling. The wire connectors. few things had happened and had send signal to me that it could be the culprit here. It appears the earth connection is losing contact somewhere. Thats why the starter most times would be making clicking noise when trying to start the vehicle. It would only start after a several trials. Sometimes, it would start at first turn. Also the beam headlight has started to show loose of earth. The fuel pump behaves when the engine is idling as if its not getting enough current to keep it running. Most expecially when the A/C is on. the sound of the fuel pump would be going up and down. In fact when i fist installed my Sony car CD player in the car, i connected the positive wire directly on the positive battery terminal head and connected the negative on of the bolts under the glove box. I noticed whenever the engine is running, the Car CD would alway go off. And when switch on again, it would reset itself as if it was disconnected from the battery and put back again. So i removed the earth wire on the body of the car and directly connected it on the negative terminal head of the battery, and since then it hasnt switched off as it was doing when it was connected to the body(-negative/earth), whether the engine is running or not. So i think the fuel pump and other electric devices in the car are not supplied enough battery negative/earth to power them. I will make out time to trace and clean the negative/earth battery connections to see if there will be any effect. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 I have to stress and echo Bryan's advise on checking and replacing as a matter of course when diagnosing these kinds of running issues. Pulling plug wires will confirm they're firing, but it doesn't say how well it's firing, or if they had an intermittent miss. You really need to pull the plugs out to inspect, and I'd only put them back in if they were perfect. They're cheap - so may as well put new properly gapped plugs back in. (I always check gap). Same thing with the distributor cap and rotor. As for your electrical issue - 505's have a common issue where the ignition switch contacts don't provide proper contact for the starting circuit anymore. The common and cheap fix is to install a relay to do the switching. 505's also have notoriously bad ground contacts, and unsealed electrical connections - so thoroughly going through connectors and grounds can also help immensely. Mechanic - just find someone that's really VERY good. It shouldn't matter what experience he has with Peugeot, he'll figure it out if he's really good, and has access to the manuals and the internet. I'll take a smart mechanic willing and wanting to learn new things over a bad experienced mechanic any day. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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