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Found 5 results

  1. Hello all! First of all I just want to say hello to everybody! I recently got a 1985 puegeot 505 N9T 5 speed. I am fixing it up and I had a question regarding the coolant temp gauge. After I bled the system (according to the post by webmaster back in 2012) I let it idle for a bit. But, as shown in the attachment when the coolant temp gauge reaches that point the cooling system warning pops up to indicate overheating/low level. My level is fine. When I drove it for 20 miles beforehand I did not get any warning lights and the gauge was kinda sitting at around that position. I suspect I either didnt bleed the system properly or the gauge never worked properly. Here is the link to the guide I used: Any help is greatly appreciated!
  2. Hello everyone! I am interested in learning more about 505's as I don't know that much about them. I'm sort of looking for a project car and my uncle has a 505 turbo (86 I think) that has been sitting in a half enclosed shed for at least 20 years. I understand that when the car was parked it ran and drove, and I don't know what caused it to be abandoned. He has been talking about getting rid of it, and I am thinking about the possibility of trying to get it going again and saving it from an unknown fate. My first question is what resources should I call upon if I were to try to get it on the road again? Where can I look for more information about these cars? What are some common problems that these cars have? Where do y'all get parts? I have some mechanical aptitude and would do all the work myself of course, and I am trying to decide if it's something I want to undertake. I live in Oregon and the car was originally purchased in California. Thanks!
  3. Please can someone tell me the thickness and with of the N9T piston pin in inches? Thanks
  4. Let's start with the ugly: the Cylinder head is failing. It is almost certainly cracked, and it is leaking. It would be nice to keep it in the family, so I'm posting this here first. I've owned this 1986 Peugeot 505 N9Te wagon for over 14 years. It's my second 505 (the 1983 STI was driven away at 220,000 miles) and it has served as a luxury car and a hauler of astonishing loads. The problem is that I'm going through another episode of life changes, and just don't want to do the mechanical work on another car. And the last Peugeot mechanic in the Bay Area is an hour away by car - and 2-3 hours by transit for pick up. This is an entirely rust-free vehicle (no surface corrosion, bubbles or "spots"); it was first sold and always kept in the semi-arid regions of California. No damage, dents or holes. It retains a beautiful, blue interior with supple leather, all athe carpeting, and dashboard are intact. All insturments and lights work. What else? I'm asking $2000 Who am I? Craig Parada Alviso (San Jose), CA (408) 263-2761 [fixed] (408) 772-5480 [mobile & text] craig [dot] parada [at] sbcglogal [dot] net The car has 145,000 Miles on it. Silver-Gray exterior, dark blue interior The ZF4HP22 automatic transmission (rebuilt two years ago) works perfectly. New tires (and I mean new) on original 15" alloys New battery Alternator has new diodes (waited too long on the battery) All suspension and brake components are good Passed smog 2014 registration complete It is equipped with all the mid-1980s luxuries: · Cruise control · Climate control · Air conditioning (works, but you know this isn't American A/C) · Heated seats (both work) · Rear window washer · "Euro" (Argentine) glass headlamps amber (legal) · Fog lights - amber to match the headlamps · Peugeot roof rack (to go between the standard rails) · Peugeot mud flaps · Lightly tinted rear and side windows · Custom trailer hitch (that doesn't interfere with the spare) · Electric fans replaced the clutch fan · AM/FM radio with CD, 6-speakers (antenna no longer retracts) · Electric windows (one slow, switches fussy) · Power door locks (inexplicibly stop working occasionally, but usually work fine) · Plip remote door lock transmitter and matching receiver (never installed, and still in the box). · Trip-odometer doesn't reset Photos at http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/user/1203-craig-in-alviso/
  5. I've been thrown in another tangent with getting my 89' ready to resume daily driving duties with having to figure out why it's overboosting. Could be as simple as boost lines - but I suspect the wastegate actuator. If the wastegate needs to be replaced then I most likely need to remove the motor mount to gain access. "While I'm at it..." Syndrome then took over and I thought for a few more nuts I could swap in the Forced Performance built T3/T4 turbo off the Danielson motor I bought. While researching exactly what the turbo was so I knew what to expect - I also started to realize it might not be what I want either (might be real laggy). I started looking for upgraded turbos that could use the stock exhaust housing. Stock spare T3: Exhaust: .36 AR with Stage 1 68 trim wheel Compressor: .42 AR (Didn't bother with the wheel trim) I know we had discussed stock AR's - but I was always referencing the compressor AR and never even thought of the exhaust housing. .36 exhaust is absolutely tiny and the stock T3 specs really are the same turbo specs that some DIESELS use. The dilemma is that the proprietary exhaust manifold to turbo flange means we can't readily use any other turbo, but at the same point the log manifold is actually one of the nicest log manifolds I've seen. Super short runners, nice and thick with nice webbing. I also suspect it's cast inconel as the surface finish is amazing. If a bigger .63 AR T31 housing was ever used by Peugeot they we have some options to build a pretty sweet turbo with BB CHRA, and billet wheels (Precision Turbo) - but if not the manifold needs to be modified to a T25 flange OR have a v-band flange welded onto it. I love the v-band flange idea, but that would mean having to get a compressor housing with an integrated WG outlet on it somewhere and a v-band inlet... Found one but I don't like the downpipe / exit design. T25 looks the most promising as the existing flange is actually very close to the T25 dimensions. Clearance issues with the turbo and motor mount mean you can't use an adapter - so the idea right how is to see if I can mill out the outside pattern of the T25 into the stock manifold - then have a stainless steel T25 flange welded in (Tig with 309L filler rod should work). Some minor porting to the new flange and then you can have a huge selection of modern turbos to choose from. Did I mention that all stemmed from me over boosting.... It'll end up being a hole in a hose I'm sure. Rabin
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