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  1. Hello everyone! Some of you may remember my last project (505 GTI V6) that also has a short video on Youtube. I don’t know why or how that video has achieved 100k views, but nevertheless I decided it would be a major milestone and it is worth celebrating it with the revealing of my latest project. This project began immediately after my GTI V6 project was roadworthy. Since I felt it lacked power to make it something very special, it would need some upgrading. As I further investigated different options, I figured out that I would need a charger of some sort for my power hunger. Now, with the V6 I would need every required part custom made and since I had a 205 GTI as my daily driver back then I stumbled upon the Mi16 and S16. Those are probably one the most over designed engines for a normal car like 405 or 306, and they pack a huge potential. Don’t get me wrong, custom parts are not the issue for the V6, but I would prefer to keep the V6 naturally aspired and since parts for Mi16 and S16 are readily available I thought maybe I would try to make my version of the 505 Turbo updated to 21st century. A Peugeot 505 T16, yes, that would be what I need… At this point I would like to point out that this project is still on-going but I would prefer to tell the project history from the beginning up to this date. This project was properly started over 3 years ago (2015) when I bought a Citroen Xsara 2.0 VTS which had the same engine that Peugeot 306 GTI-6 has (Xu10j4rs). The car was almost totaled, but I would only need the engine to be in reasonable condition. As the cars body was in bad condition, the seller did list it at somewhat cheap price. Since the Xu10j4rs engine is demanded engine in amateur racing leagues in Finland, I knew I need to act fast if I would want to get it before some amateur racing team would buy it. I contacted the seller right away when she listed it and I went to see the car in the next day. The car was in a bad shape, but I didn’t even go for a test drive, I just started the engine and revved it couple of times and the feeling of the engine had me convicted it is in a decent shape. After all, I would strip it completely and rebuild it with new parts. The car was LOUD since the exhaust pipe was also broken just after the cat. After signing the papers, I drove the Xsara to my house. It was heavily snowing, so 150 km with broken exhaust, a plastic bag as a side window and without functioning air conditioning blower was far from a enjoyable trip, but I didn’t have time to get a trailer and someone with a license to tow the trailer. The trip back to home went well regardless the circumstances. As I got it parked, it stayed there for almost a year since I was busy with other stuff. In late 2016 I salvaged the engine and the rear axle along with some other parts from the Xsara and scrapped the rest. I stripped the engine completely and took the head, block and crankshaft to an engine specialist, who washed, checked and measured all of the parts. The engine found out to be in an excellent condition, and only the head gasket surface was machined straight, and the valve stem seals were renewed. The casting imperfections from the ports were also removed. The head was also flow benched before and after the port cleanup. I also happened to have an Mi16 head in the shop at the same time and it was also flow benched as I were curious enough to see how they match up. As the specialist confirmed the engine was in an excellent condition, I placed some orders for parts. I ordered a Wössner Low-compression piston and a PEC H-beam forged connecting rods. The pistons were 0.5 mm oversize as I would have the block re-bored to ensure a proper piston and piston ring clearance. The piston / rod kit took 3 months to arrive as they needed to be made in the Wössner factory as they didn’t have them on stock. I also did order some King Racing bearings for the rod bearings and normal King bearings for the main bearings and Glyco thrusts bearings. Furthermore, I did order a Cometic head gasket, but it didn’t fit properly on the Xu10j4rs. As for gaskets, I did order a full set from Elring. When the piston / rod set arrived in the February 2017, I could send the pistons along with the block to an engine machining shop for the re-boring. The block was re-bored to 0.5 mm oversize and the block head gasket surface was levelled. After the re-bore, I painted the block red. Although the block had been re-bored, and I did have the parts, I needed to machine the bearing housing for the clutch shaft bearing in the crankshaft. I did this with one of my friend’s lathe as the machining shop would rip me off for such a job. I did blank the oil routes with tape before doing any machining althought it is not done yet in the picture. After machining the bearing housing, I could finally start to put the engine back together with the new parts As I wanted to properly tighten the ARP 2000 connecting rod bolts, I would need a stretch gauge to measure the bolts stretch. I ended up fabricating one on my own along with an calibration part. Unfortunately I dont have a picture of it at the moment. As soon as I had my stretch gauge calibrated, I could assemble the bottom end of the engine with the new parts. At this point, I also had almost compeleted the assembly of Megasquirt 2 with coil-on-plug modifications: (Sorry for un-focused picture) As for summer 2017 I didn't get much done except fitting the top-end for the engine after measuring the compression ratio and valve timings. I did use a elring MLS head gasket and ARP head stud set. For the late 2017 I ordered a clutch and flywheel set along with billet aux pulley from TTV Racing. The last thing I managed to do in 2017 was the alternator and powersteering pump bracket. The original cast iron was way too heavy since I dont need the upper engine mount anymore. I ended up doing it from 8 mm and 10 mm stainless steel rods welded together with TIG. That concludes the progress to end of the 2017. I will continue with the 2018 and 2019 progress in my next big post this or next week. Please feel free to ask any questions regarding the pictures, the story or anything else related to the project, I'm more than happy to answer to them. And yes, the car itself is going get restorated in the early 2018 and the project will take huge leaps compared to the previous years progress speed. Best Regards, WalesRR
  2. Hello, I bought an 84 505 GL(?) a while back and loved it, then managed to find a nice 87 505 turbo. Car has only 110k kms on it and seems to have been stored for the last 30 years or so (tires on it are form 1989!). Also got a whole bunch of the workshop manuals, original sales documentation, brochures, etc. Body and interior are in great shape, but runs rough from sitting so long. Idle was super low, knock indicator light flashes almost constantly when its warmed up, alternator wasn't working, throttle got stuck if pressed down past half way (that was a little scary), was very unhappy to go on boost, and a bunch of small things on the interior like sunroof, fog lights, and high beam switches not working, hvac fan only turning on at a few positions, front speakers not working, etc. Power steering pump pulley is toast (luckily came with a whole spare pump) and valve cover gasket has a small leak at the front corner. What I've already done: spark plugs, plug wires, coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, wideband O2 sensor (has a controller with narrowband output so it'll play nice, still need to wire this in), and alternator. Unstuck the wastegate flap (thanks to another forum post where someone else had the issue of ignition cuts at 2750 rpm), set idle speed and fixed sticky throttle (screw was backed all the way out and catching on intake temp (?) sensor). Whats next: vacuum lines, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, check for cracks in VAF-turbo accordion pipe, re-align headlights (pointing way low), going to run some injector cleaner and octane booster through the fuel tank (fuel in tank smelled foul even after flushing it once) - hopefully this solves the knock warning issue, then re-assemble and test it out. Electrical issues on the inside I'll have to start probing around. Also going to put LED bulbs in the taillights and marker lights. Questions: Anything else I should look at thats prone to failure? Good way to take apart center console without cracking anything? Where to route wires through firewall? Removing the firewall insulation plastics? Ill try and add a pic once its back together
  3. I have a bunch of miscellaneous parts for the 505 series new and used. Located in Seattle Wash. Mostly 505 gas turbo but also some from series 1 xn6 sedan. Looking for someone to take the whole lot. There are new and used parts. No reasonable offer refused. Here is the dropbox link to all the parts pictures. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u6xnb0du9n1st08/AAC6ZHcB1MDved_UHHJY0TB5a?dl=0
  4. I am selling my 1989 505 Turbo 5-speed sedan. It has just under 112,000 miles on the odometer, with about 500 miles traveled after the speedo cable broke. I have received a couple of offers over the past few months, but I don't fancy myself an exotic car dealer, so I am planning to list it on Bring a Trailer at no reserve. I could easily have flipped it with no effort at all, but instead I decided to give it some of the attention it deserves. This was a one-owner car until January. The original owner passed away in 2013, and it sat in a garage for a couple of years. Judging by the crack-free dash and leather, it spent the majority of its life under shelter. A logbook includes entries not just for major service, but for each and every tank of gas. The car originally lived in Maryland, then moved with its owner to Tennessee about 15 years ago. From what I've learned, they had several Peugeots, but this was the only one they kept. Here is a list of improvements since I brought the car home in February: • Euro headlamps • Valve adjustment • New spark plugs • Good set of OEM plug wires installed • Powdercoated valve cover, intercooler bracket, heat shield, and front lift bracket • Crappy nuts and washers replaced with proper metric stainless • Stripped and repainted intercooler • Rebuilt left front caliper and replaced brake hose • Brake light switch repaired • Fifth alloy wheel procured for spare • Side trim refurbished • Turbo intake hose repaired • PCV valve replaced • Side marker replaced • Damaged wheel center cap replaced • Catalytic converter heat shield repaired • Driver side mirror motor replaced • New old stock lower speedometer cable installed • Air filter housing customized to accept Lexus SC430 filters • Radio antenna motor replaced • Four new stereo speakers installed • Leather cleaned and conditioned • Window switch replaced I'm probably forgetting something. The sunroof works. All the windows work. The A/C does not at the moment, but I'll be checking that out this week. There is one spot of bubbling paint on the front left fender the size of a quarter, but underneath the chassis is cleaner than any Peugeot I've ever owned. Wait, that isn't saying much. Just look at the last couple of pictures. No holes, no splitting seams, no blistered wheel arches. The logbook mentions some bodywork and paintwork due to a tree branch falling on the car. There are three small dings still visible on the hood, but the paint is glossy and you can only see them from a certain angle. There is some smoke at startup - warm or cold - for about 3-5 seconds. Once running, it is smoke-free, whether on or off the throttle at speed. Over 500+ miles, driving from Knoxville, Tennessee, to Arlington, Virginia, the oil level changed by maybe 1-2mm. According to the logbook, both the cylinder head and turbo have been replaced. The car is on its fourth speedometer cable. This thing was babied by a proud owner who gave it whatever was needed. I have uploaded an album with more photos: https://flickr.com/phot…/[email protected]/sets/72157665038087702 I will be taking more photos and a walk around video soon. I haven't even washed it yet. I just want the word to get around before the auction goes live. This is a rare opportunity, and I hope this car ends up in deserving hands. I can be reached at 703-231-9888 if you'd like to talk in person. Karl
  5. So i am thinking about buying a red 1988 505 GTD (XD3TE) with a seized motor, and replacing it with another motor from a 1987 GRD diesel wagon (XD3). I'm wondering if anyone knows what the difference is between these two motors? Is it possible to Convert an XD3 to an XD3TE without opening the engine, and just swap the turbo bits over (Turbo, intercooler, exhaustmanifold etc.)? Ludvig
  6. Hi Everyone > Lifelong Citroën fanatic, recently started getting into Peugeots. After resurrecting a 1975 604 last summer and letting it go on eBay in November, I went looking for my next project. Somehow I've ended up with two: a 1983 505 XN6 bucket of worms, and a 1986 505 Turbo with an unknown list of needs that would hopefully make a presentable driver. Considering it only cost me $400 and had a good set of tires, I figured I could at least break even just selling the wheels and tires to a vintage Subaru fan and scrapping the rest. Trouble is, the interior and body are really clean, and I'd feel horrible taking it the crusher. I'd like to keep it on the road, but I'm hoping for some input before getting too deep into the project. I finally had time to do some exploratory work yesterday, and found several issues. The car has been parked for two years or so since it stopped running. The fuel pump fuse was blown, but replacing it didn't get the car to start. It turned over and seemed like it wanted to catch, but never did. Radiator proved to be empty. I pulled the intercooler and found oil inside, and more in the up pipe along with what looked like coolant. Digging deeper, I found one of the spark plug wires detached and completely corroded. All of the hoses surrounding the turbo are pretty much toast. The turbo impeller is covered with corrosion, but there doesn't seem to be any axial play. The valve cover had clearly been leaking oil badly; two of the nuts holding it on weren't even tight. Once I pulled off the cover, I found sludge and coolant mixed with the oil in the cylinder head, but the timing chain and cam lobes look clean, so I think they've avoided long-term damage. I'm willing to put $500-600 into getting this car going again, but I really don't want to go beyond that. It's an automatic with 115k, and a nicer looking one from California with leather and a thousand-dollar head unit just went for $1799 on eBay a few days ago. Would a new set of seals be enough to fix the turbo, or does the corrosion on the impeller imply that it's beyond saving? Can I find replacements for the dry/cracked hoses? Do the parts and machine shop work add up to more than the car would be worth in running condition? Thanks for any input, Karl http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/345-peugeot505turbo1/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/344-peugeot505turbo2/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/343-peugeot505turbo3/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/342-peugeot505turbo4/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/341-peugeot505turbo5/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/340-peugeot505turbo6/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/339-peugeot505turbo7/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/338-peugeot505turbo8/
  7. Hello everyone, I'm offering a 1987 Peugeot 505 Turbo S Automatic Sedan from California. This car comes with shipping NOT included, it shall be discussed, along with the price, with the serious buyer. If anyone wants an idea of the price, it's lower than 1300 dollars. Shipping is from Red Bluff, CA This car comes with loads of electronic copies of shop manuals, owner's manuals, and specific information to aid the future owner in his/her ownership. If any spare parts are needed then you will be in good hands, a list of providers, membership to the private Facebook Peugeot group, the Yahoo Mailing List "Peugeot-L" and the Online Forum "505Turbo.com" will be provided with the purchase of this vehicle to aid the future owner with any questions or problems they may have during their ownership. A smog certificate in California can be provided for an extra 90 dollars if needed. The car will be delivered nearest to your location and the ownership papers and all documentation will come included. The shipping will be taken care of from one of three vehicle shipping companies, and the current owner will deal with these companies for the ease of the future owner. Please contact me for more information but here's a quick rundown: - On its third engine, engine has low KMs and everything is in great condition - Good running car - Front end checked for play, no play on it - Brakes are good, has ABS - Tires have good tread on them - Paint is fine - All fluids checked and are all in good condition - Interior is in great condition for its age Specs: - 170 hp - 2.2 L Inline 4 Turbocharged (T3 Turbo 0.36 A/R) - Rear Wheel Drive - 4 Speed Automatic (ZF 4HP22) - 15x6 wheels - 205/65r15 tires - Same brake dimensions and parts as Porsche 944 (slight modding required to fit the 944 disk) - Very comfortable ride with lots of power, feels like a lot more HP than it says on paper
  8. From the album: 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo

    Tree sap

    © Karl Nelson 2014

  9. From the album: 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo

    Solid body

    © Karl Nelson 2014

  10. From the album: 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo


    © Karl Nelson 2014

  11. From the album: 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo

    Oil and coolant in up pipe

    © Karl Nelson 2014

  12. From the album: 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo

    Corrosion on turbo impeller

    © Karl Nelson 2014

  13. From the album: 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo

    Throttle body and bad spark plug wire

    © Karl Nelson 2014

  14. From the album: 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo

    Cams and timing chain appear decent

    © Karl Nelson 2014

  15. From the album: 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo

    Oil and coolant in the cylinder head

    © Karl Nelson 2014

  16. I have many parts from my drivetrain swap for sale (see my post in the projects forum) Radiator: New in 2001. The hose is sealing the outlets; I have kept it filled with water so the gaskets don't dry out. The level and fan switches are not included. $100.00 US plus actual shipping cost Condensor with fans and wiring harness: $100.00 plus shipping; bare condensor: $75.00 plus shipping Also for sale are most other parts removed with exception of the turbo and water pump (neither feel good); such as hoses (cooling, heater, A/C), wiring harnesses (engine, injection, ignition, instrument, starting, power), ECU's (FI & Ignition, N9TEA) intercooler & piping, air filter box & airflow meter, meter boot (replaced, nice and soft), intake, injectors, starter, alternator, P/S pump, various brackets, ignition parts (secondary wires no good), sensors, fan clutch, fan and shroud, reservoirs, auto trans, and many others. The cam was reground and hardened by Webb Cams of CA. If anyone is interested I'll pull the valve cover and check the condition of it. The engine and trans are still bolted together sitting on the crossmember and jackstands as it came out of the car. The head developed a hole and the engine strarted ingesting coolant, probably resulting in mechanical damage. If someone is interested in the whole shooting match we can work something out. PM me if interested in any of these items. If you are not a memeber you can e-mail me at [email protected] . Tim
  17. I have a '88 505 Turbo that was given to me by an old man on a farm. According to him the car had been parked for about 6 years. He originally bought it for his son but he broke the transmission and left it. Old man put in new trans and then it got stolen, ignition and stereo ripped out. It was recovered by the police and Old Man just left it out in his field. I found it by accident buried under weeds almost hit it with the tractor. Long story short Old Man said I could have it. I was going to scrap it but felt I should at least try to get it started. Two days later Success! Now the problems: 1. They don't make parts anymore. 2. They are not found in any of the local junk yards. 3. I need a wiring diagram, it is a mess. I wired the fuel pump to the ignition which is a tractor switch and it works the headlights too. Don't know why? 4. I could use a repair manual, I found some online but all seem to skip my year and model. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Located in South East, Colorado - USA Pictures later today.
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