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Found 3 results

  1. N9TEA - Code 5-1 should indicate an NTC issue. I bought the car with the LED flashing. Even though it started and drove well cold (area of influence for the NTC as it screws into thermostat housing) I changed it anyway (I think it had a black on and the new one is blue). Not only did it not change the cold starting (which was ok as I said) it did not make the LED stop flashing 5-1 either. The light doesn't come on right away but after warm-up and accelerating. Then it says on until shut off. Any ideas?
  2. I've been thrown in another tangent with getting my 89' ready to resume daily driving duties with having to figure out why it's overboosting. Could be as simple as boost lines - but I suspect the wastegate actuator. If the wastegate needs to be replaced then I most likely need to remove the motor mount to gain access. "While I'm at it..." Syndrome then took over and I thought for a few more nuts I could swap in the Forced Performance built T3/T4 turbo off the Danielson motor I bought. While researching exactly what the turbo was so I knew what to expect - I also started to realize it might not be what I want either (might be real laggy). I started looking for upgraded turbos that could use the stock exhaust housing. Stock spare T3: Exhaust: .36 AR with Stage 1 68 trim wheel Compressor: .42 AR (Didn't bother with the wheel trim) I know we had discussed stock AR's - but I was always referencing the compressor AR and never even thought of the exhaust housing. .36 exhaust is absolutely tiny and the stock T3 specs really are the same turbo specs that some DIESELS use. The dilemma is that the proprietary exhaust manifold to turbo flange means we can't readily use any other turbo, but at the same point the log manifold is actually one of the nicest log manifolds I've seen. Super short runners, nice and thick with nice webbing. I also suspect it's cast inconel as the surface finish is amazing. If a bigger .63 AR T31 housing was ever used by Peugeot they we have some options to build a pretty sweet turbo with BB CHRA, and billet wheels (Precision Turbo) - but if not the manifold needs to be modified to a T25 flange OR have a v-band flange welded onto it. I love the v-band flange idea, but that would mean having to get a compressor housing with an integrated WG outlet on it somewhere and a v-band inlet... Found one but I don't like the downpipe / exit design. T25 looks the most promising as the existing flange is actually very close to the T25 dimensions. Clearance issues with the turbo and motor mount mean you can't use an adapter - so the idea right how is to see if I can mill out the outside pattern of the T25 into the stock manifold - then have a stainless steel T25 flange welded in (Tig with 309L filler rod should work). Some minor porting to the new flange and then you can have a huge selection of modern turbos to choose from. Did I mention that all stemmed from me over boosting.... It'll end up being a hole in a hose I'm sure. Rabin
  3. When I parked my 89' this past winter it had started to overboost and cut out while at a rally-x. Once I realised what it was doing I basically drove home and parked it since I didn't have the time or the place to work on it. Getting it sorted now I figured I would test the different components and make sure the lines were intact. Wastegate seems OK with light pressure and suction (whatever I can do with my mouth!), the lines to and from the electrovalve were good, and the electrovalve worked properly with 12V across the terminals. I ensured the wastegate actuator rod could move, and all seemed OK. The connection at the electrovalve was a bit dodgy so I redid the connectors and cleaned it all up. Reassembled it all and the damn thing still bucks and feels like it's over boosting. The wiring has been hacked on the car as I was worried that the overboost sensor wasn't working as it should, so while looking at it it finally dawned on me that it looks like a previous owner has used the overboost sensor to trigger the cold start injector? Wires are cut and soldered all over the place and it's a complete mess - but from what I can tell this is what has been done. I'll recheck and confirm as it was pretty late when I realized what they had done. Still baffled with the overboost as the electrovalve's home position (no power) should basically connect the compressor outlet to the wastegate. The only thing I can think of was that either the wastegate actuator leaks at higher boost levels, or one of the boost lines is. All the lines tested good, and all of the connections are zip tied... This one has me baffled! I'll update later when I can actually use a pressure signal to test all the lines and the wastegate manually with at least 15 psi... Rabin
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