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Found 3 results

  1. Hello, I bought an 84 505 GL(?) a while back and loved it, then managed to find a nice 87 505 turbo. Car has only 110k kms on it and seems to have been stored for the last 30 years or so (tires on it are form 1989!). Also got a whole bunch of the workshop manuals, original sales documentation, brochures, etc. Body and interior are in great shape, but runs rough from sitting so long. Idle was super low, knock indicator light flashes almost constantly when its warmed up, alternator wasn't working, throttle got stuck if pressed down past half way (that was a little scary), was very unhappy to go on boost, and a bunch of small things on the interior like sunroof, fog lights, and high beam switches not working, hvac fan only turning on at a few positions, front speakers not working, etc. Power steering pump pulley is toast (luckily came with a whole spare pump) and valve cover gasket has a small leak at the front corner. What I've already done: spark plugs, plug wires, coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, wideband O2 sensor (has a controller with narrowband output so it'll play nice, still need to wire this in), and alternator. Unstuck the wastegate flap (thanks to another forum post where someone else had the issue of ignition cuts at 2750 rpm), set idle speed and fixed sticky throttle (screw was backed all the way out and catching on intake temp (?) sensor). Whats next: vacuum lines, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, check for cracks in VAF-turbo accordion pipe, re-align headlights (pointing way low), going to run some injector cleaner and octane booster through the fuel tank (fuel in tank smelled foul even after flushing it once) - hopefully this solves the knock warning issue, then re-assemble and test it out. Electrical issues on the inside I'll have to start probing around. Also going to put LED bulbs in the taillights and marker lights. Questions: Anything else I should look at thats prone to failure? Good way to take apart center console without cracking anything? Where to route wires through firewall? Removing the firewall insulation plastics? Ill try and add a pic once its back together
  2. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3194-505t-wagon-alternator-trouble/ I need this same info. '86 turbo gas N9TE 505 alternator I changed my oil filter and then found there was a thin brown wire dangling down. Car starts fine but the battery charge light stays on. Voltmeter at battery shows no charging from alternator. On the back of the alternator there is a thick brown wire with a lug that's secured to the top post with a nut; there is a black plastic plug in the middle with a black wire that connects to a RF filter? which goes to the post at the bottom (or opposite the post where the thick brown wire goes in). So I attached the small brown wire to the same bottom post that the RF filter bracket is attached to but the battery charge light in the dash still says on and no juice going to the battery. Some clues would be appreciated. (I know this is a 4 yr. old thread) Thanks guys!
  3. I've been thrown in another tangent with getting my 89' ready to resume daily driving duties with having to figure out why it's overboosting. Could be as simple as boost lines - but I suspect the wastegate actuator. If the wastegate needs to be replaced then I most likely need to remove the motor mount to gain access. "While I'm at it..." Syndrome then took over and I thought for a few more nuts I could swap in the Forced Performance built T3/T4 turbo off the Danielson motor I bought. While researching exactly what the turbo was so I knew what to expect - I also started to realize it might not be what I want either (might be real laggy). I started looking for upgraded turbos that could use the stock exhaust housing. Stock spare T3: Exhaust: .36 AR with Stage 1 68 trim wheel Compressor: .42 AR (Didn't bother with the wheel trim) I know we had discussed stock AR's - but I was always referencing the compressor AR and never even thought of the exhaust housing. .36 exhaust is absolutely tiny and the stock T3 specs really are the same turbo specs that some DIESELS use. The dilemma is that the proprietary exhaust manifold to turbo flange means we can't readily use any other turbo, but at the same point the log manifold is actually one of the nicest log manifolds I've seen. Super short runners, nice and thick with nice webbing. I also suspect it's cast inconel as the surface finish is amazing. If a bigger .63 AR T31 housing was ever used by Peugeot they we have some options to build a pretty sweet turbo with BB CHRA, and billet wheels (Precision Turbo) - but if not the manifold needs to be modified to a T25 flange OR have a v-band flange welded onto it. I love the v-band flange idea, but that would mean having to get a compressor housing with an integrated WG outlet on it somewhere and a v-band inlet... Found one but I don't like the downpipe / exit design. T25 looks the most promising as the existing flange is actually very close to the T25 dimensions. Clearance issues with the turbo and motor mount mean you can't use an adapter - so the idea right how is to see if I can mill out the outside pattern of the T25 into the stock manifold - then have a stainless steel T25 flange welded in (Tig with 309L filler rod should work). Some minor porting to the new flange and then you can have a huge selection of modern turbos to choose from. Did I mention that all stemmed from me over boosting.... It'll end up being a hole in a hose I'm sure. Rabin
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