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In late summer, my heater started pouring out full hot no matter where the temperature control was set. When current passes through the valve it closes, so any electrical problem will result in full coolant flow, wide open. I pulled the glove box and the climate control ECU. The resistance through the heater control valve was around 3 MΩ. According to the 505 tech training manual it should be 20 to 25 Ω measured at the ECU and 11 Ω measured at the valve. (I'm sure this site is linked to somewhere else, but here it is again: http://peugeot505.info/. It's a pretty old site which hasn't been updated for a long time and it could disappear at any time, so download anything useful. Click on "Manuals".) I checked resistance at the valve itself, which on a V6, is mounted under the cold air intake on the right side. Pull out the air filter box and MAF, then the air intake tube. Viola! there it is. (If you're looking for it on a different drivetrain just follow the heater hoses under the hood.) It measured the same resistance, so I set about finding one. The Bosch number is 1147412020. I tried both that and the Peugeot part number which is 6461.90 in Google and followed every link. I did find some places in Europe that listed it, but most didn't have one and those that did won't ship to the US. In the 90s and early 2ks I used to relace a lot of these types of valves, mostly on MBs and BMWs, so I thought I could find something else I could use. A lot of them were Inlet-Outlet 90° from each other, but Peugeot's is straight through. A lot of them have also been discontinued, so I ended up using BMW# 64116910544 (Bosch 1147412350) and connector kit BMW# 61132359998. I got both of them from FCP Euro for around $100. It is a double valve for dual climate control on X5s and X6s up to 2019 so they should be available for a while. The hose nipple size is also 20mm so no adapting is needed. The one outlet needs to be capped off however. I used a 3/4" cap (Dorman brand I think) and a clamp, see pictures. These types of valves are always rubber mounted because to regulate the temperature they cycle open-closed, the ratio varying with how much heat the cabin needs. If they are mounted solidly you can hear them thump from inside the car, so if you don't mind that you can skip the rubber mounting and save yourself some grief. The lower nipple that feeds the two valves is the inlet and needs to face the front of the car in a V6 or whichever way the original valve was oriented in something else. If mounted backwards the valve may not open because there is just a fairly weak spring operating on it when the current is switched off and the coolant flow is fighting it. As for the electrical part, hook up the wire (33R) that has ignition power when the key is on to terminal 1 (clearly marked on the connector housing) and the other wire (137) that goes to the ECU to terminal 2. Don't forget to use the seals that come in the kit to keep water out. They slide on the wire before the connectors are crimped on. The smaller end of the seal is slid up to the crimp and the two longer ears of the connector get bent around the seal to hold it in place. There are two different sizes and blanking plugs. Put a plug in cavity 3. I did this a few months ago and there's a lot of water under the bridge since, but there should be a lock in the connector shell you will need to slide off to one side a couple of millimeters before inserting the connectors. You might have to remove the big seal from the shell to do so. The lock tab will probably go between the "square" part of the connector and the crimp, so keep the wire just barely past the crimp with the insulation ending just before the crimp and orient the connector the right way as it goes into the shell. As you can see, I made a jumper, but the male end that plugs into the car harness may be hard to come by. I also trimmed off some of the BMW mounting points with a bandsaw, but be careful. I also had to modify the cold air intake tube with a heat gun to get it all to clear, but if you cut off the two mounting bits that stick up from the valve you may not have to. All in all, it works like the original.