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  1. Hello, I bought an 84 505 GL(?) a while back and loved it, then managed to find a nice 87 505 turbo. Car has only 110k kms on it and seems to have been stored for the last 30 years or so (tires on it are form 1989!). Also got a whole bunch of the workshop manuals, original sales documentation, brochures, etc. Body and interior are in great shape, but runs rough from sitting so long. Idle was super low, knock indicator light flashes almost constantly when its warmed up, alternator wasn't working, throttle got stuck if pressed down past half way (that was a little scary), was very unhappy to go on boost, and a bunch of small things on the interior like sunroof, fog lights, and high beam switches not working, hvac fan only turning on at a few positions, front speakers not working, etc. Power steering pump pulley is toast (luckily came with a whole spare pump) and valve cover gasket has a small leak at the front corner. What I've already done: spark plugs, plug wires, coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, wideband O2 sensor (has a controller with narrowband output so it'll play nice, still need to wire this in), and alternator. Unstuck the wastegate flap (thanks to another forum post where someone else had the issue of ignition cuts at 2750 rpm), set idle speed and fixed sticky throttle (screw was backed all the way out and catching on intake temp (?) sensor). Whats next: vacuum lines, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, check for cracks in VAF-turbo accordion pipe, re-align headlights (pointing way low), going to run some injector cleaner and octane booster through the fuel tank (fuel in tank smelled foul even after flushing it once) - hopefully this solves the knock warning issue, then re-assemble and test it out. Electrical issues on the inside I'll have to start probing around. Also going to put LED bulbs in the taillights and marker lights. Questions: Anything else I should look at thats prone to failure? Good way to take apart center console without cracking anything? Where to route wires through firewall? Removing the firewall insulation plastics? Ill try and add a pic once its back together
  2. [CAR IS IN AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND] Price NegotiablePeugeot 505 GTI 1989Finished in light metallic blue with deep blue interior5 Speed MANUAL.2.2 Fuel injection model66000 miles currently. SMR Alloys.Currently legal on NZ roads.Try find a Peugeot 505 GTI in this good condition anywhere!These cars are solid and you can see why they are used extensively in parts of Africa because of their durability. The body panels are built more like a Mercedes of that period.The car has adjustable front seats, with lots of legroom both front and back.Electric windows all round, electric sunroof and electric door mirrors.Has original ALPINE tape deck.Huge boot.The GTI features, like rear spoiler and lower front valence, with front fog lamps and the standard SMR alloys.Completely original 505 that has been kept in near showroom condition it's whole life. - Manual- Original paint in perfect condition- 66,000 miles (approx 110,000kms)- Runs perfect, no mechanical issues- Everything is original (even has original receipt of purchase in 1988 for $54000 NZD)- Beyond extensive handwritten service record- No rust anywhere on the carSo the car will need to be imported if you are overseas, which is why I am setting the price lower than the average 505 for sale on this site, even though this car is in far superior condition. I have loads more pictures, and am willing to negotiate on price, just flick me an email!
  3. Hi, everyone. My name is Vash. Nice to meet you. I wanted to tell you a very crazy idea that I have, only idea because I have been presented with various opportunities and I wanted to discuss them with you. The other day, I had the crazy urge of buying a 505 without a engine (there’s a lot where I live) and installing a 1.6hdi. I do want to know that you think, and if it’s even possible. I have a list of pros and cons if you want me to explain them too. But I'd be interested to know what you think of the idea. Thank you so much!
  4. Hey all! So I’m a 505 owner and recently I made it my mission to replicate some fading decals that I believe came factory on my ‘92 DL wagon. The decals have the Peugeot logo with a crest and the text reading “World Rally Champion”. They are stuck to the inside of the glass. As I was going to make them for myself, I figured I could offer them to you all too. They are the exact size of the old ones, 5.5in x 5.5in and stick to the inside of the glass just as the old ones did. I have created an Etsy store (mainly to keep track of orders) where you can find them here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/Eurorepro I’ve got around 100 in stock to start but can make more fairly quickly. The decals go for $6 usd.I also threw a mug and a T-shirt on the store simply because I wanted them, but I figured I could offer it to you guys as well. The T shirt comes in four colors and goes for $14 usd, the mug goes for $12 usd. Everything ships worldwide and I keep towards usps when sending things. Stay tuned for more reproduction decals and such, my main goal is to recreate the (little) unobtanium pieces that came with our cars! If you have any questions or comments, feel free to reach out either on here or via email at [email protected] I am in Detroit, MI, the decals ship from me, everything else ships via a drop shipping website as I do not stock the mugs or shirts. Thanks!
  5. Hi. I have Haynes manuals leftover from vehicles I sold years ago, 405 ('88-'97 Euro Edition/Petrol - Hardback, Good condition) and 505 ('79-'89 4-cyl Petrol- Fair condition). I'll donate them and meet up with anyone in the NC Piedmont area. Other than that, I wouldn't mind a few dollars for shipping. I just want them to go to someone who can use them.
  6. Looking for a 505 front windshield. Unfortunately mine cracked right on the bottom left corner.
  7. Selling my friend's Peugeot collection for his widow. 2 diesel cars, 604 with engine installed (was running when it was parked in the shop a couple of years ago...), and a 505 with the engine removed. Includes (2) diesel engines in the shop (minus the stands), many, many extra parts and a good selection of manuals. Asking $2700.00 for the whole collection. I am no Peugeot expert by any means, so please peruse the photos I have included and feel free to ask any questions and I will do my best to provide reasonable answers. I'm really hoping this collection can go to someone who will appreciate it! Reasonable offers considered. Thanks, Larry
  8. Hi guys. Been reading the posts, some quite interesting info on the 505. I'm from Argentina, recently blew the head gasket on my Peugeot 505 station wagon. Had the head removed, sent in for reconditioning, bought the new gasket , seals water pump etc. Now the mech tells me that the sleeves on the block are also damaged. Looks like we're going to have to do up the whole engine. Thing is that the cost is at least 2 thirds the value of the vehicle. Or at least that's what I can presently sell it for. (Interestingly, second hand cars are dirt cheap in Argentina presently for anyone coming in from outside with dollars. A peugeot 505 in good condition would go for about $1000) Anyway , I'm between continuing to fix or sell as is. Any opinions..?
  9. Hello everyone! I am interested in learning more about 505's as I don't know that much about them. I'm sort of looking for a project car and my uncle has a 505 turbo (86 I think) that has been sitting in a half enclosed shed for at least 20 years. I understand that when the car was parked it ran and drove, and I don't know what caused it to be abandoned. He has been talking about getting rid of it, and I am thinking about the possibility of trying to get it going again and saving it from an unknown fate. My first question is what resources should I call upon if I were to try to get it on the road again? Where can I look for more information about these cars? What are some common problems that these cars have? Where do y'all get parts? I have some mechanical aptitude and would do all the work myself of course, and I am trying to decide if it's something I want to undertake. I live in Oregon and the car was originally purchased in California. Thanks!
  10. Hello everyone, Okay, so the thing is, in short form, I have installed a ZPJ V6 engine from 605 to 505 gti. And as I really dont know how common this particular engine swap is worldwide, and because I think many of you would like to see my version of it, I registered to this forum. The car had 2.0l ZEJ-engine as I got it. But lets begin with the project itself. So two years ago I bought a really nice looking 505 GTI from "not so convincing" owner. So the car was leaking gasoline and didnt start even after half minutes of start grinding, the electricity was done bad REALLY BAD, test drive was total disaster, but yet so hilarious as we saw that the previous owner didnt know anything about cars. But I was in love for the 505, especially for this one, hence the paintwork and additional lights and the price wasn't so bad, so I bought it. The price was tight, and it wasn't negotiable because "It would bring bad luck", said the previous owner. I can't even imagine what would happen if we had even slightest bad luck with us! So after we came down to our home city, the car almost bursted into flames.. There was smoke coming inside the interior carpet, luckily we managed to locate the faulty switch, that was the engine fan's on/off switch that the previous owner had re-located inside the cabin.. So now you see why I teared the whole car upside down to get rid of the sh*tty wiring and stuff. The whole car's electricity system was f**ked up, and I got two plastic bags of wires that I threw away. The wires were build following this rule: about 7 cm wire (3"), then a connector, and same again.. And the most of the connector's weren't even protected in any way! At this point, as most of the wires needed complete rebuild, I hit my eyes on my extra ZPJ engine, which I had bought for spareparts to my 605 SV 3.0. So that's where everything started. First of all, I built a stand for the ZPJ engine, and by doing so I figured it was running and in good condition. I knew it would not be easy to fit the 3.0l frontwheeldrive engine to the 505, as the oilpan, clutch cover and enginemounting's will not fit straight. I didnt know that the pedals, distributor and the whole brake system required heavy modding as well. As the V6 engine was in good condition, it was time to get the proper gearbox and clutch cover. I found the gearbox from V-M. I used BA10/5 box in this vehicle. My friend made the clutch cover from combining the 505 Turbo Injection clutch cover and the 605 SV3.0 clutch cover. After plenty of measuring and fitting, we had a clutch cover, that connected the BA10/5 to the zpj engine. We fit the Turbo Injection's hydraulic clutch cylinder to our clutch cover. So now that the clutch cover was ready, we needed proper bottom end to engine, otherwise the oilpan doesn't fit. I used the same that can be found in ZN3J, it fits directly to ZPJ. It was time to first fit test and bang, the powerbrake and climate blower was in the way, so I removed them. After that, the engine fits in its place quite nice. At this point, I knew I have to mod the powerbrake system and distributor in order to get the pedal box fit. So I used 205 gti's powerbrake, a 605 brake master cylinder, and lowered the pedalbox 5 cm (2"), turned the distributor 120 degrees with the help from my friend and mod the valvecover very little.. After those "little" tweaks, as I call them, the engine fitted in place just fine. So now I needed the engine mountings.. This was the end of summer 2012, and as I dont have an garage,and it is really nasty to do anything outside during winter time as your fingers freeze and drop out, there was an inevitable break.. All good stories come with sequals, so will this one too Just kidding, but I have been writing this for an 1.5 hours now and clock is eleven at night + early morning, so I will continue writing this tomorrow.. If anybody has or has done, or you know somebody that has or has done similar project, I am more than happy to hear about that. I will add millions (maybe not millions, but at least 10 ) of images later also.. By the way, I have couple of videos in youtube about this car. This may be the best one: Best regards, Wales
  11. I have a bunch of miscellaneous parts for the 505 series new and used. Located in Seattle Wash. Mostly 505 gas turbo but also some from series 1 xn6 sedan. Looking for someone to take the whole lot. There are new and used parts. No reasonable offer refused. Here is the dropbox link to all the parts pictures. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u6xnb0du9n1st08/AAC6ZHcB1MDved_UHHJY0TB5a?dl=0
  12. So I broke my fuel level sender cleaning the rust out of my gas tank in my 85 505 wagon (XN6), and while hunting for a replacement I found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-Boat-Fuel-Sending-Unit-Car-Truck-Water-Level-Gauge-Sensor-240-33ohms-IP67/382502418876?fits=Model%3A505%7CMake%3APeugeot&epid=15020832874&hash=item590eebb9bc:g:ngQAAOSwFrtbMd13 It looks like a good fit but I think the resistance is wrong. What's left of my sender measures around 500 ohms. Does anybody have the resistance spec for the fuel level sender on these? Or recommend where to get an OE replacement?
  13. Hi, I am Ivan from Croatia. Here is my 1981 505 STI that I almost all restored. It was bought i Croatia (ex Yugoslavia) in 1981, driven by a Peugeot dealer director. I have it since 2017. Here are some pictures, when I bought it: http://213.147.125.109/isporcic/Forumi/505sti/505.jpg http://213.147.125.109/isporcic/Forumi/505sti/108b_16.jpg http://213.147.125.109/isporcic/Forumi/505sti/108b_17.jpg
  14. Hey all. I've uploaded a whole host of misc parts that I have for sale. I tried to do it in a manner that shows the part number and the condition of the part if possible. I realize that there are no prices up (yet) but you can always make me an offer, the worst I can do is come back with a counter offer. I will have a parts list and some prices up at some point in the future - soon hopefully. check them out: https://picasaweb.google.com/116400569354424146538/PuegeotParts cheers Tony
  15. Edit: THIS ITEM HAS BEEN SHIPPED AND IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE. ------------- I have a brand-new, in the original Peugeot parts bag, ignition switch and door keylock set for a 505.. Includes two keys, the later 1986+ style that have the square rubber heads with the logo on them. Long, long, ago, in a galaxy far, far away... I had 4 different 505s over about 7 years, and somehow this ignition set got stuck in a drawer and never used before I got rid of the last car. I'm too sentimental to throw away a perfectly good part kit that somebody could probably make use of, so it is FREE to the first person who sends me an address (domestic US only, please). I'll send it in a USPS small flat-rate box at no cost. Just put it to good use and get it out of my house!
  16. Last weekend, we picked up a 1983 505 (XN6, manual) in Austin, Texas that had been off the road for about two-and-a-half years. When we got it it wasn't clear if it was going to be a pile of parts or a project. After spending a few days getting it running again, its status is officially 'project' I'm starting this thread in part to seek advice with issues that the car has, but also to keep track of the state that it's in and how it progresses over time. So, with that said, here's where things stand at present: The car: 1983 505, XN6, manual. Odometer says 155,400 miles but the speedo has the usual issues which mean that it could be 1,155,400 for all I know. General condition suggests that number may be about right, however. The good: Clutch, gearbox, steering, cooling, and electrics all seem to be pretty solid. Body is straight. 33 years of shopping cart dings, some clearcoat peel and minor solar oxidation, but overall it looks OK from 20 feet away. Well, maybe 30. No leaks, drips, or other haemorrhages seem to be taking place. Tyres seem to have somewhere between 40% and 50% of their life left in them. They'll do for now. The known issues: Ignition switch doesn't always engage the starter. A $10 Harbor Freight starter button is attached for the times where it doesn't do what it should. Will order new switch when I get tired of using the starter button. Starter was having a protracted death. Replaced it, everything's fine. Ignition switch problems may have been related to the tachymetric relay; repaired relay, awaiting long-term results. Tachymetric relay repair didn't hold. Replaced it. Speedo needle operates on a 'pick any number between...' basis; odometer and trip meter untrustworthy as a result. Speedo cable is waiting to go in. Tachometer is believed to be a liar. Claims cold idle speed of 2500 RPM, down to 1250 or so RPM warm. Engine doesn't sound anywhere near that. Need to get inductive tachometer to verify. Inductive tachometer confirmed that the mechanical one isn't even close to accurate below 2000 RPM; adjusted idle accordingly. Need to replace mechanical tachometer. Vacuum leaks everywhere were contributing to this. Going to manually reset tach needle to zero rpm when speedo cable is replaced and see what happens. Factory clamps on vacuum line joins are useless after 33 years; many vacuum leaks suspected as a result. Continuing to track these down; will start replacing hose clamps as I go. Failed brake booster was main cause of leaks. Replaced vacuum hoses; saw distinct improvement. Suspect one or two lingering leaks (there's one known one at the ventilation distribution controls) but overall much improved. Sensation of fuel delivery occasionally pulsing. Car came with almost a half-tank of 2.5-year-old fuel in the tank; topped it off with no-ethanol 87-octane and Seafoam. Still running the lousy gas out. Have now run out all of the old gas; car currently has a tank of fresh no-ethanol 87-octane in it. Got slightly better after half-assed throttle body cleaning with Seafoam via fuel evaporative line; will clean throttle body with entire ass and hope for further improvements. New fuel filter en route since I have no idea if the old one is full of mud or not. Replaced old filter; it was full of mud. Solved fuel pulsing issues. Electric radiator fan works when jumpered directly to battery or A/C is selected but does not automatically switch on when driving. Suspect switch in radiator; replacement is ordered and should be here next week. Switch is installed. However, the thermostat has also been replaced along with the coolant. Waiting to see if I can get it warm enough for the fans to kick in. Fan now not coming on at all; will investigate when not Winter. Suspect resistor pack. Warped brake disc at the front. Just going to replace all four discs and the pads plus flush the fluid; everything looks antiquated. Brakes otherwise functional, just not as good as they should be. Much better post-booster replacement. Speaking of the A/C, the compressor is seized and the belt to it has been cut and thrown away. Guessing that pretty much the entire system is going to need replacement. Cabin fan has exactly zero speeds. Fuses look fine. Windows roll down (and up) so will worry about this when it's not 100degF outside. Fan works on speeds 2 and 3 with some jiggling of the switch. Need to pull switch and clean contacts. Sunroof doesn't work, but, given that it's a 505, not an unexpected development. Avoiding this job unless being held at gunpoint to complete it. Still waiting on basic tune-up parts to arrive next week so haven't yet pulled the plugs, distributor cap, etc. to check them - I'd rather not start pulling things apart until replacements are on hand. Overall, it's a decent driver. Despite the running issues, it pulls surprisingly well (yes, I know how counterintuitive that sounds) and will make a decent car for getting around in. Looking forward to seeing where all of this ends up.
  17. I'm looking for a 505/604 diesel coolant expansion tank and you find cheap ones in Argentina, the thing is that just by looking at the plastic you can tell that it's not as good as OEM. So the question is are they worth buying and installing or do you have to change them after one year or two? And now for those interested it's story time, I want one to see if it can be made to fit on a 309 GTI16. On this car Peugeot used the exact same part except that they moved the nipple under the tank away from the exhaust manifold. GTI16: OEM 505 made in Argentina: Non OEM 505, it could be better as it's closer to the firewall: Maybe with a little plumbing and an heat shield GTI16 owners will have an OEM-looking alternative to worn out and overpricied water tanks.
  18. Looking for an European headlight for a peugeot 505, passenger side. Please call me at 562 356-7776 . Thanks ask for ruben
  19. Looking for an European headlight for a peugeot 505, passenger side. Please call me at 562 356-7776 . Thanks ask for ruben
  20. I bought a '87 505 STI 2.8L V6 Zn3j with ba10/5 transmission earlier this year and have been slowly cleaning it up. The next items to be changed out are the oil pan gasket and the spark plugs. I have done these on other cars and feel comfortable changing them. However, I'd like to know if there are any "special" steps that are required for these two processes with this engine? Also, what are the torque specifications for the oil pan bolts and the spark plugs? I checked the 505 and Zn3j manuals and have not been able to find this info. If you can help I'd really appreciate it.
  21. car starts at 1100 rpms when cold, runs smooth but after around 5 minutes the idle goes down to 950 and the vibration starts. I open the idle screw one third of a turn and the vibration stops. At around 8 minutes when the engine warms up the vibration returns so then I close the idle screw almost a one third of a turn from the end and the vibration stops but when I reb the engine it smokes a little because it needs more air, so if I open the idle screw and reb the engine the smoke goes away but about 2 minutes later the vibration returns. Any suggestions are welcome, Thanks
  22. I have inherited a 1983 Silver Edition 505s Turbo Diesel with 83,000 actual miles - one owner. The paint is rough and the body is straight. The turbo blew in 1997 and the car has been in a barn for 18 years. Incredibly the tires were up and it rolled onto the trailer just fine. I want to know if I should scrap the car or attempt to rebuild. I do not know where to start. It would need some major work on the turbo and paint. Otherwise it appears sound. What value, if any, does the car have as is? I have a clear title to the car and it is located in Paducah, Kentucky.
  23. I am selling my 1989 505 Turbo 5-speed sedan. It has just under 112,000 miles on the odometer, with about 500 miles traveled after the speedo cable broke. I have received a couple of offers over the past few months, but I don't fancy myself an exotic car dealer, so I am planning to list it on Bring a Trailer at no reserve. I could easily have flipped it with no effort at all, but instead I decided to give it some of the attention it deserves. This was a one-owner car until January. The original owner passed away in 2013, and it sat in a garage for a couple of years. Judging by the crack-free dash and leather, it spent the majority of its life under shelter. A logbook includes entries not just for major service, but for each and every tank of gas. The car originally lived in Maryland, then moved with its owner to Tennessee about 15 years ago. From what I've learned, they had several Peugeots, but this was the only one they kept. Here is a list of improvements since I brought the car home in February: • Euro headlamps • Valve adjustment • New spark plugs • Good set of OEM plug wires installed • Powdercoated valve cover, intercooler bracket, heat shield, and front lift bracket • Crappy nuts and washers replaced with proper metric stainless • Stripped and repainted intercooler • Rebuilt left front caliper and replaced brake hose • Brake light switch repaired • Fifth alloy wheel procured for spare • Side trim refurbished • Turbo intake hose repaired • PCV valve replaced • Side marker replaced • Damaged wheel center cap replaced • Catalytic converter heat shield repaired • Driver side mirror motor replaced • New old stock lower speedometer cable installed • Air filter housing customized to accept Lexus SC430 filters • Radio antenna motor replaced • Four new stereo speakers installed • Leather cleaned and conditioned • Window switch replaced I'm probably forgetting something. The sunroof works. All the windows work. The A/C does not at the moment, but I'll be checking that out this week. There is one spot of bubbling paint on the front left fender the size of a quarter, but underneath the chassis is cleaner than any Peugeot I've ever owned. Wait, that isn't saying much. Just look at the last couple of pictures. No holes, no splitting seams, no blistered wheel arches. The logbook mentions some bodywork and paintwork due to a tree branch falling on the car. There are three small dings still visible on the hood, but the paint is glossy and you can only see them from a certain angle. There is some smoke at startup - warm or cold - for about 3-5 seconds. Once running, it is smoke-free, whether on or off the throttle at speed. Over 500+ miles, driving from Knoxville, Tennessee, to Arlington, Virginia, the oil level changed by maybe 1-2mm. According to the logbook, both the cylinder head and turbo have been replaced. The car is on its fourth speedometer cable. This thing was babied by a proud owner who gave it whatever was needed. I have uploaded an album with more photos: https://flickr.com/phot…/41474352@N00/sets/72157665038087702 I will be taking more photos and a walk around video soon. I haven't even washed it yet. I just want the word to get around before the auction goes live. This is a rare opportunity, and I hope this car ends up in deserving hands. I can be reached at 703-231-9888 if you'd like to talk in person. Karl
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