Bean

So there were no changes to the stock gasket when you ran the big pistons V-M? I seem to remember they have the worst shaped piston holes and that you may have had a tiny bit of head gasket into the combustion chamber which was a partial cause to the failure - but that's just from memory. I'd like a custom one, and since a lot of the new race engines are using these multi-layer steel gaskets I figured it was worth a shot. There's also that nice gasket with the combustion rings from Italy that was on here (Tama?) that might be worth a shot - but my ultimate goal is to be able to source the rebuild from North American suppliers so that it's easily duplicated. As for the Dani heads - what would you sell them for? I know you've made your own - and that might be a possibility for me as well. I know you've detailed the work to make one into a Dani head, so I might have to give it a second look. (Do you have your link handy?) My biggest problem with the stock head is that recessed area the plug is in. The Dani head has a much better location and combustion chamber design in conjuction with the cosworth pistons - so it'd be nice to how close one could get to replicating that. I just don't like the 10mm plugs it uses! Be nicer if standard 5/8" plug fit it instead. Maybe the best mod to buy is a tig welder! Rabin

Instead of primer which actually holds moisture (it's not sealed to moisture) - I'd look at something like POR-15 for them. Seals them really good and bonds to the rusty stuff. If not POR-15 - make sure to paint them with some sort of paint like Tremclad otherwise the primer will likely make it worse. Hope to see some pics soon! Rabin

Well I had asked for info about the race spec but it wasn't addressed - so I sent another specific e-mail asking if they'll now share the race spec details for the hobbyists that still own these cars. I could see these being "trade secrets" in the heydays of 505 racing - but now it should be safe to share the details. Hopefully they decide to share... As for prices - the only ones that seem OK are the timing chain and tensioner set, and the steel head gasket. I've asked if it's a multi-layer steel gasket, and if so if it's possible to get a custom one with 95mm piston holes... Again - we'll see what happens. I was talking with a buddy about the issues with rebuilding the engine and we discussed the possibility of offset grinding the crank to a smaller journal and a narrower width to fit a different Ford rod. The 2.3 Turbo has 3 different rod lengths that have been developed with different pistons, so it might be possible to bore it and stroke the engine for the Ford bits... That seemed crazy to be as it would likely get to be a 2.6 - 2.8L turbo 4 - but if done well - would still be cheaper than getting any left over OEM / NOS bits. I'm also still waiting on the cost break down for doing the supercharged V6. I'm trying to cap the engine built at $3K - but will be able to likely swing $4k if it means having the motor of all motors. Rabin

Glad you were able to stick it out and get it back to a healthy state. When they're running well - they are VERY rewarding cars to drive. Easily one of the most under rated / not even known about cars on the road. So how did you resolve the rusty strut issue? And what was the final issue with the stumble? Rabin

Holy cow - can't even tell it was an E30! And that looks like a pretty big turbo on that straight 6 - must have been a fast car! Rob - There's only sadness if you get rid of the Peugeot! E30 is a nice car and all, but it sounds like you did alright with the S60. Now is this the same S60 that was in your sig? Rabin

Yep - definitely too esotaric! I just assumed it was a bamboo stick used for canings... But I never looked into it. Rabin

505 Momo wheel I was thinking of putting in an offer for this myself - but I already have a really nice Momo wheel and adapter for mine. I had to debate it a bit as I'd really like to get it just for the motorsports colours and the emblem - but not worth it for $$ for me. (Plus I have a nice chrome standing lion for mine... Anyone remember the nice Peugeot specific Nardi wheels from a few years back - I still kick myself for not picking one up. Rabin

I'm either dense - or there's missing words in your statement... "I cat of 9 tails mine "? I think "give it a good caning" was one of the things the brits said that I picked up working with them in 04' at PPIHC. They had tons of good sayings and slang... Rabin

Welcome to the forum! The top picture looks like it was from the US with the other US spec cars! Do you guys have a club or something in France for imported US cars? The 24V engine should be a really nice upgrade - you'll have to keep us posted! Rabin

Alrighty - here's the response: Politecnic sarl 180, chemin de Baratière - 38330 Saint NAZAIRE LES EYMES - FRANCE Tél. (33).04.76.52.20.85 - Internet : www.politecnic.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Danielson head = Epuised (Can't find a definite meaning for this - assuming it's "used up" from context of other paragraphs when I googled it. Anyone know for sure?) New original cylinder head - with valves = 1 589.00 € steel head gasket = 65.30 € pistons Coworth complet (axles + clips + rings) = 991.00 € crank bearings = Epuised rod bearings = 225.70 € Kit timing chain with hydraulic tensioner = 105.00 € Restant à votre entière disposition pour tout autre renseignement, nous vous prions d'agréer, Monsieur, l'expression de nos sincères salutations. Bablefish translation: Remainder fully at your disposal for any other information, us you prions to approve, Sir, the expression of our sincere greetings. Politecnic sarl Cyril Gracia

Cool - originally it sounded like it could have been two issues - hopefully the hardstart (initially thought as a fuel issue) was due to the battery as well and you have no other issues. Gotta love it when it's an easy fix! Rabin

Glad to hear you figured out the power issue - but is the hard start issue still and issue? Or was the lack of juice causing the long starts too? Rabin

Brakes too if they're modded at all... And thanks - can't wait to see the detailed pics! Rabin

I was thinking - if they're actually willing to deal on 505 Turbo stuff - is there anybody here interested in a group by on some of the components? I'm thinking the Dani head of course, but are there any other parts people are interested in that we can possibly work a group buy? (Bottom end bearings? a total rebuild kit? rods? pistons?) The prices on the site are pretty darn high - so I'm only interested in possibly the head. I'd like to see if there's a way to rebuild the bottom end with readily available parts if possible - so I'm not real willing to spend huge cash on the full meal deal. Although the fully built engine isn't outrageous as far as crate engines go... Still - I figured I'd get a gauge to see if it's worth discussing with Politecnic. Rabin

yep - from the top. You'll have to work by touch, but with extensions making the ratchet just longer than the starter it should be straight forward. I swapped the starter out after work and before an event - so it wasn't too bad at all. Having the right tools makes a HUGE difference though... (Used to be a mechanic so I got a LOT of hand tools!) Rabin

Peugeot wheels are often hard to come by as the old Subaru guys will pick them in a heart beat as well. The older Brat, Loyale, GL-10 etc run the same 4x140 and the Peugeot mags are a nice upgrade for them. Rabin

Hey Koll, Measure the voltage under load - ideally when you're cranking. You can also "load test" it with all the lights on to see how fast the voltage is dropping. Monitoring the voltage under load should tell you if it's got enough amps in it to do the job. Another thing to help diagnose is to check the lights (or voltage drop) during cranking - if the dim/fall drastically you know the starter is pulling too much load and is probably on it's way out. Lights and voltage should return to close to normal levels after the cranking though. If it turns out to be the starter - it's pretty easy to pull out. I've R&R'd one in about an hour outside. Rabin

I know they respond well the usual intake and exhaust mods, and they like a better ignition. It's all about getting more air/fuel into it - so the same rules should apply by doing intake and exhaust mods. Best bang for the buck after the usual stuff would likely be cams. There are some really wicked weber carb conversions as well - but they're big money if you can find them. After that - then you're looking at forced induction. Like with any other car - It depends what your goals are, and how much you want to spend! Rabin

Cool - got a response from them! Asked me what I wanted so I sent a list. We'll see what the prices are if they come back some info! Rabin

Action you say? I added some pics of my 505's in action - and there's some winter event pics in there as well... 505 action pics Rabin

Hey man, Throw some skinny winter grips on some extra rims and it'll turn into a damn good winter car - lowered or not... I've pushed through snow so deep I came to a stop after pushing a bank of snow up infront of the car - backed up and saw the "face" of the 505 in the snow... Was able to back up and go around it and was on my way... Easily 12" of powder as the door pushed snow when I opened it. Not sure how the Torsen does in the winter though - the clutch type LSD's are supposed to be better on loose surfaces - so that might have made the difference too... Rabin

Well - they're most certainly over 5 years old - probably more like 10... There's no weather cracking, and the blocks are nice and soft. They're also all 220's so they're a lot of rubber for the car - which is why I was going to auto-x them. They had a great dry weather rep - and the car felt fantastic with them on... Keep me posted as I likely won't use them till May... Rabin

I'd agree with Johnny and advise to check your timing. I'd also suggest making sure that all the turbo to intake hoses are nice and tight. You also might want to check the o-rings on the cast turbo pipe to make sure they're in nice shape so you're not getting any leakage. Do you have a boost gauge? If it were me I'd want to verify the wastegate is opening properly just to be safe. I use a small hand bike pump that I attach directly to the wastegate that has a built in gauge. Not the most accurate unit - but I get a good idea of the pressure it's openning at. Rabin

What kind of boost are you seeing when it starts to sputter? There is an overboost protection circuit that will cut in if you're overboosting... You'll need to be really specific when describing the issue. RPM's. throttle position, gear - enough info that we could get in your car and duplicate the issue. Rabin

There's no market up here for them. I know there are some Ford Mustang guys that might like to get them - but I'd prefer to have them go to someone who needs them for his Cit... I don't want loads of money for them - but I'd need enough to replace the rubber as I'd be losing a set of decent tires for slaloming. (200 tread wear and they're still sticky with soft tread blocks.) If they're not in dire need for them it's likely not worth the effort to send them down - but if they were needed I'd make the effort. Rabin