Bean

Worth a shot, otherwise if you can get a hold of a coolant pressure testing set up - that might help figure out what’s going on. Pull plugs as well when you test just in case the leak is there. Checking torque can’t hurt. Rabin

The only spot where the two can mix is the head gasket. What did you use for a gasket? Head bolts? Torque value and sequence? You might need to check the head and block surfaces to make sure they’re flat. Rabin

That’s an awesome success right there Jayden! That’s no simple feat, so congrats man! Rabin

Easy enough to test by applying vacuum to the diaphragm if it holds vacuum and it moves the plate inside it’s functional. If it won’t hold a vacuum or the advance plate is stuck then same boat. If advance is static when you rev it, then timing advance is not working and the car will be pretty leisurely. leaking rear axle is a fair amount of work - it’s similar to Ford 9” where the seals are behind the axle bearings, and there’s a pressfit collar holding the bearing. IIRC you have to drill a hole into the collar and then strike with a chisel to break it so it comes off. Pull bearing, then replace seal, and reassemble. Rabin

I’ve had good luck eyeballing alignment - in one case it was more accurate than the included alignment tool! (Trans wouldn’t engage, but alignment tool fit. Thought it was spline count, but when I checked it was just out slightly. Aligned by sight, and it went together no problem) Rabin

Mike said it - bearings would’ve definitely made noise and are totally shot. If axle bearings are shot my guess is the pinion bearings are shot as well. Do you see any numbers on the bearings? Can you include if so? Are you sure about the axle ratio? I thought the Torsen diffs were 3.46 - does yours have the code plate on them or have you counted gear teeth? Pics of the teeth aren’t detailed enough for me to see if the gears are worn - I do see metal folded over the edge, and the gear profile looks like they may be worn, but it could be the lighting or reflection. Let me see if I have the FSM for the diff - I’m not sure if the axle bearings are shimmed, or if the pinion gear would be the only adjustment. I do have tools for measuring, but I think those gears are shot. Bearings would be felt as roughness when turning but wouldn’t /shouldn’t bind and lock up - any stiffness rotation or locking would be gear engagement - but I would have expected you to see more metal in the case when you opened it. (Or the oil looking like metal flake paint) Rabin

Thanks for the update D00zer! What wheel and tire fitment are you running with the adapters? And did you go with adapters for the offset and wheel availability? Any updates on how it’s running or pictures of the car? Looks great! Rabin

Axle bearing race picture? The pinion does look a little rough, but ring gear doesn’t look bad - but pictures aren’t good enough to tell. You might need to take apart at good diff to compare pinion gear teeth condition. I think I’d try swapping the Torsen center section into a different diff. If the ring bolts up you should be golden. Rabin

Peugeot Sport offered optional sport springs for the 505 Turbo - the plan was to have them copied so that we could offer them for sale. The cool part of him installing them however is he said they’re fantastic - he’s had them on his car at VIR and they were better than his coil over set up he had made. Still the plan if we can get them off the car and to a spring manufacturer. One option might be to install the Torsen center into a known good diff - You can’t mix pinions and ring gears, they have to stay paired, and if you did swap the Torsen into say a 4.11 then you’d need to verify gear engagement and any play in the diff were all in spec. Rabin

That looks really good in the housing - no sludge or sparkly metal bits! There should be some sort of pinion bolt holding the pinion gear in - If you can remove that pinion then you should be able to get a number off the bearing. I’d only use a used bearing if it was the only option. Gear teeth appear to be good but if you can do close up pics of both pinion gear and ring teeth, as well as the bearings on axle (rollers and race) that should indicate what if any wear exists. Rabin

Another option would be to see if a regular diff could be used as the donor to fix the Torsen diff. I bought a spare Torsen but my brother Arun accidentally installed it in his car. I think it may have been when he accidentally installed the Uber rare factory sport springs I found as well. Poor guy is really accident prone! Rabin

Play on the input shaft or the axles? Play would mean bearings being shot, and if they’re shot then the ring and pinion likely worn. I know how they work, and I’d guess whatever the issue is with it *should* be readily apparent. Wether it can be repaired will depend on what it is and what kind of access to repairs you’d have. I’m lucky in that I live in an agricultural based economy and have contacts and friends that have full machine shops - that said - if it’s not an “easy” fix or needs parts that are unobtainable then cost of repair limits if it can be repaired. If you did pull it apart I’d of course help anyway I could. Rabin

I don’t know of anyone that would tackle them, but I’d be willing to buy one to see if I can fix it… If there is a fix then I could document it so you can fix the other. (Or get both and send one back to you if I fix it) Im not even sure what in the diff could make a noise like that… Gotta either be bearings or the ring and pinion have worn out - Do any of the axles or the pinion have excessive play? Rabin

So what did you get? You can conclude the post with finally finding the car - I’m curious what you ended up with even if it wasn’t a Peugeot. Rabin

Yes - Quick Google search seems to verify that year range for the manual mirrors. I remember some NOS ones on eBay years ago, so might be worth saving a search there. I’d also try contacting some of the vendors listed on the forum to see if they had any sources for them. Rabin

Yeah - that’s the early style with the manual knob and will be much harder to locate a passenger one. ? - 85 they moved to the door, and then 86+ the moved back to the window corner but were electric. I’ve only known of/had one early 505 - 1980 505 SR. bought it as a total loss many years ago and put it’s motor and 5sp into my 504. Might try eBay? Rabin

The 81 might have a different style mirror - Can you post a picture of the driver one? There were 3 styles and I’m not sure when the first to second change was, but second to third style changed in 1986 MY. Rabin

The LED is likely flashing a code - count the flashes to see if there’s a repeating pattern. Id also check timing and verify the TPS voltages are still in spec. Might also want to check for vacuum leaks, or leaks bypassing the VAF. Rabin

Welcome to the forum! You should be going far right and down, and if the linkage isn’t engaging reverse then you’re likely grabbing 4th. Should be able to inspect from below, or remove the console and tunnel cover to get access to the shifter assemble. Control rod sockets can get very loose, and the bushing on the shifter boot can get hammered out as well making for a very sloppy shifter. Rabin

The opposite of love isn’t hate, it’s indifference. Love and hate are usually two sides of the same coin… Also stumbled across this so had to share: https://www.thegentlemanracer.com/2013/06/why-i-miss-peugeot.html Rabin

Great job nipping the rust in the bud and getting the car in great shape - looks awesome! Hopefully the rear axle is just preventative maintenance and is easily serviced. Rabin

Looking forward to the results! Hope they mail the paint match as well…. Rabin

Hi Rusma - there’s not enough info to go on for value, and usually the more unknowns, the more risk the buyer assumes which means lower offers. Lots of pictures and details will only help your sale. Rabin

I’d make sure your vacuum advance is working and timing set as well - these are known to have the vacuum advance diaphragm fail over time. The engine will run fine, but be down on power, sluggish and possibly hesitant if base timing is off. Thanks for the update! Rabin

Makes sense - I just assumed it was the trunk getting painted, but what is getting done then? Undercoating and sealing underside? Is body getting paint somewhere? Rabin