Bean

I used to daily my 89 505 Turbo in winter on some incredible ContiIceContact studded winter tires. Ridiculously fun car in the winter, but the best ever was doing a winter rally cross where I beat 18/19 of the local Subaru club guys. This was made even more insulting for them as the car had two kid seats in the back... I’ll have to talk to my buddy to see if he still has these or if I downloaded them - Stupid Photobucket: Rabin

I pursued having them machined into something useful and I even had a good friend that had a wheel machining / restoration business and he simply refused. Not enough meat in the lips to machine down to 15”, didn’t look like a good fit to machine them into wheel Centers. He said it’d be much better and stronger to use forged billet blanks and machine centers rather than using old cast aluminum. Some guys in Australia machined the wheel center out and then welded them into the alloy bells of a Nissan wheel - looked great, but he didn’t want to do that either. He made some good po

Haha - That’s how it starts... These things are insidiously addictive, but is a good way. Rabin

Hi Stafford, The center caps, and the lug nuts are common to all 505 wheels, but the metric rims themselves are a tough sell. If you don't get any offers I'd suggest selling the caps and lug nuts separately, and then recycle the alloy rims. When I took mine in I got $50 - better than throwing them out. Rabin

Fantastic find Todd - And welcome to the forum! The early series 1 505 TD cars are pretty great. I used to and still kinda prefer the the later interiors in 86+ cars, but the simplicity and clean design of the early cars is growing on me a LOT. And 60K on it makes it barely broken in in - some would argue it hasn't been... What are your plans for it going forward? Rabin

Videos are pretty bad quality, but this was in the early years of digital video technology! You're 18 though so it should be OK if you find out that there might even be some street racing documented! lol I just installed at new feature on the site called Downloads - I still need to figure out how I'm going to organize the content, but I've got a ton of data to make available to members here, but there should be a ton of documents that will help you out. I've never driven a 405 in anger, but I think they're the better pavement handling car. I'm more of a 505 guy, and while 505's ar

Way too far away to even consider, but I’m guessing little to no rust? Glass good? Paint is toast but seems like a decent candidate to save as it looks well sorted mechanically and the MANUAL series 1 XN6 wagons are very rare... Hate to say it - But it’d be worth decent money to an exporter that is sending cars to Africa - Might be worth checking into. Rabin

Damn - You’re not having any luck with seals! I have to say I was very impressed with the pace you had getting it sorted - well done. Curious what the winter car plan is? Will the Mi16 get stored or will it get some winter tires? My R on Hakka9 studded tires is the best winter car I’ve ever been in. Rabin

Welcome to the forums Jayden - Tell your Dad I said hi. He and Joe Grubbs were/are legends from back in the day. Pretty sure I still have video of your Dad doing burn outs in Blackie. We're pretty biased about how fantastic these cars are - but you can believe Vin Wiki: I have Blackie's twin - can't remember if it was Auto or Manual - but I think it was a manual? Feel free to post up pics and post up threads on each car if you want. Will do our best to help you get them going. Really great that you've taken this on and will be trying to get them going again.

I think your oil temps are fine - you're running a decent synthetic and it's running under 300F - I confirmed with multiple sites referencing 220-240F being optimal for oil temps as that's when the oil has it's best characteristics and the least amount of parasitic loss. Over 240F is still safe to 300 - they just advise that extended temp intervals shorten the life of the oil. Initially I thought the car was reading incorrectly, but now it's probably best that it's not! Still worthwhile knowing what temps you are hitting for sure, but it's likely by design. Fun fact: I was curious

Was surprised it went for as much as it did - Hopefully the new owner posts about it and it's resurection! Rabin

Sorry Koll - Did you ever get this sorted? Rabin

As discussed you first need to make sure you’re working with good data - Doesn’t take much to skew a sensor reading. Temp sensors usually have ohm ranges depending on temps to ensure they’re calibrated properly. Stated value: Up here we can’t get stated value unless it’s been professionally appraised for that amount - Is that not the case with Hagerty? Rabin

So oil free now, and I assume no codes? Does the car feel any quicker? Rev faster? Better MPG? Any other plans for it modification wise - Or just keeping it OE and pristine? I'd also HIGHLY recommend getting it appraised and insured for stated value if possible. The vehicle registry on this site was set up to hopefully become a repository of vehicles for insurance purposes. If a bunch of us get cars appraised and valued PROPERLY - it'll make it easier for others to get appraisals, as well as have solid arguments with insurance companies in worst case scenarios. Rabin

Hopefully you knew just because of the recent work? It can be tough when doing a LOT of work and fixing years of deferred maintenance and just plain dodgey previous repairs - Temptation to start blaming the car for the issues tends to start surfacing. Should be fairly straightforward replacing the seal - hopefully replacement seals go in without issue. BTW - what gear oil were you running? Rabin