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About Bean

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    Peugeot Enthusiast
  • Birthday 06/21/1971

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    Regina, SK, Canada
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    Contact me via e-mail at [email protected]

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  1. No response from Miles yet, but will keep you posted if I do. Rabin
  2. Does the front have arch trims? On second look they are wider than I first though, and that 205 SRDT is pretty choice looking. Tough call! Rabin
  3. If it were mine: I’d delete the rear arch trim, and paint the belt line mouldings body colour. The black trim ages the car a lot, and I think body colour just fits with the cars look better. If the plan was to change the looks to be more of a restored stock look - I’d still delete the rear arch trim ‘cuz it looks like a Pep boy’s stick on piece, and the front arch doesn’t have anything. Rabin
  4. Cool - Now I know what the 176* tag means on the side of the motor, but I think the 86+ cars here were all X - 7.5:1 Question for you VM - Have you ever seen a way to associated the engine to the VIN? Many other cars will state “numbers matching” - but I don’t think Peugeot had anyway to verify an engine belonged to a VIN. Rabin
  5. I'm not much of a web guy, but I've been able to muddle my way through keeping this site functional - So I sent Miles a message to see if there might be anything I can do to help out. Web support can be stupid costly, and super frustrating if you're not familiar with it. I'm tech savy, work in IT, but it's still such a steep and frustrating learning curve! Rabin
  6. I'd disconnect and connect 12V manually to ensure the solenoid is working - there'll be silence when you do it and much easier to hear and feel. Should be easy to unscrew and check that it's working for sure if there's still doubt. As for the filter with primer pump - if the diaphragm is leaking then that pump won't work, and the injection pump won't get any fuel. My 86' TD 5sp sedan is doing this now, and I have a new filter head to go on without the coolant heater in it which means I need to do some re-routing to clean lines up. Car will never be a cold weather car so I'm just going to delete the heater circuit. I've actually got some great reference material for diesels that JoE has sent me as I'm working on redoing the tech files section on the forum to make them easier to find and download. Will send you some that will likely help you out as well, but having a printed copy is pretty nice too. Rabin
  7. https://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1967-peugeot-404-cabriolet-c-3991.htm Not a lot if info, just some pics:
  8. As long as they're aware you're open to improvements I'm sure they'll suggest similar unless it's pretty good out of the box. Are they doing the complete rebuild and reassembly as well? Or just machining and you're assembling? Rabin
  9. I'd suggest a 3 angle valve grind, match porting the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head, and a very mild port just to smooth things out. It's astounding how much efficiency can be gained with just some simple tweaks to a stock head. Are the pistons pretty contoured? The head has no squish pads at all and looks to be quite recessed. Curious if the pistons come up above deck height much at all? Rabin
  10. The beauty of diesel is it's oily nature really protects the fuel tank so it shouldn't need much at all to get sorted. I'd put a pre-filter just before the main filter assembly just to catch any big stuff. I used one of these hand pumps as it has quite high suction and can surface any leaks in the primer easily: The fuel solenoid is here (6 cylinder but same pump really): Might be worth checking to make sure it's working, and the ignition should be on and this activated before doing the suction trick. Once you get some diesel purge into the injectors and the pump I'd let it sit a day before trying to get it to fire. I've also used ether very very carefully just to get them to fire and so it's not cranking for so long. Rabin
  11. Curious how the lip is being attached? And is it decent quality? I'd consider something similar for my 505 turbo for an added layer of scrape protection - plus it looks cool. Rabin
  12. What's the plan for the motor rebuild? Usually things like decarboning the combustion chamber would get done if you sent it in to get planed / trued up, and I'd think valve seat grind with valve lapping and valve stem seals at a minimum? Any other tricks? Rabin
  13. I’m not experienced with diesels, but I just love them! What have you done with the diesel in the tank? I’d drain and fill with fresh with some diesel additive before you start with anything. What I do to prime / test the system is to put one of those transfer / suction pumps on the injection pump return line. I then draw diesel from this line which pulls diesel through the system. If you use clear vinyl line between the injectors you can see them purge. Not only does this draw fuel through the whole system - but it also ensures there’s no leaks in the primer assembly. If it leaks it won’t feed the IP. If that checks out I’d connect the fuel filter outlet to the diesel purge can so that you pull diesel purge through everything. Let that sit in there for a day or so, then retry. I assume you’ve got power to the fuel solenoid? And fuel solenoid is working as it should? Tail lights: The absolute biggest issue with these cars are unsealed electrical connections, and bad grounds. Inside the trunk you can access the grounding tree in the inner quarter panel. Make sure all the connections are clean and wires in good shape. Tail light circuit boards are also complete crap - you can sometimes “tighten” the plug on the board with a thin bit of plastic (like credit card thin) on the opposite side of the connections to make the board thicker. Others have cut the ply entirely and soldered the wires to the board. Connections on the board can also be crap as can the bulb sockets. There’s also grounding trees under the hood on either side of the rad, and another on the steering column under dash. Consider ALL electrical connections suspect! I usually clean and tighten spade connectors, and then use dielectric grease to seal and protect them going forward. That should give a good start at least. BTW: Is this an auto or manual car? Rabin
  14. Apologies as the site would have gone offline shortly after you posted this! Car looks amazing, and I'm very glad it's fallen into an enthusiasts hands. Have you made much progress? Once we touch base on where you are now, I'd be happy to spit ball ideas. Talk soon! Rabin
  15. Bean

    Great job!

    Beautiful! That sound must be amazing - nobody does it better than the Italians. I've also had to take a STRONG hand with many of my parts I've horded over the years, but thankfully my friend Hugh is even more Peugeot crazy than I am, so I borrowed my sister's truck and a large trailer and I took all my PRV V6 stuff to him. Freed up a LOT of space, and thankfully I didn't have to throw anything out. I might have to give up on my diesel cars as well so I can properly focus on the turbo cars - but will make that call this summer. I've promised myself no more storing of cars - they either are functional, or I have space for them at home. Most important will be to finish my garage. I have a fair bit of work to do for the garage to be complete, but once done I'll be able to make great progress on my projects going forward. Very much looking forward to you getting back to your 505's V-M! I have you to thank as well as I was able to confirm with Art at ARP that the Porsche 944 ARP head stud kit 204-4211 will work on the N9TE with stock 944 head stud nuts like you did on your motor. (ordering the kit was way easier.) I now have a Cometic head gasket, and a set of ARP studs to install on my 505 Turbo SW8... It's also getting a simple standalone ECU, 465cc/min injectors, and a custom T3/T4 turbo... My 89 505 5sp sedan is getting the NEW stuff and will get worked on next winter if all goes with with the SW8. Rabin
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