N9TE

Hey, I'm going to be doing some work on the black car and I wanted to "rechrome" the silver lion on the grill. I was thinking of gilding it (silver leaf) in silver. Has anybody ever done "leaf"? It's an artsy-craftsy thing and that's not really my area of expertise. I would like it to look very nice and hold up against the elements as reasonably can be expected. Noooo... I'm not going to do it in gold. I don't want to be confused with this guy:

Seriout. Bruce Ashment sezs so here. (Using Google cache as vectorbd.com is spitting back 403s (permission forbidden) today. Ya, an area where Victor would know more about somthing than just about anybody would be 505 suspensions I would guess.

Hey all. I'm looking for some advice from some gurus. The inner edges of my rear tires are wearing faster than the rest of the tire. Probably in the neighboohood of 3x faster than the rest of the tire. I didn't think the rear (or fronts for that matter) could be adjusted for camber. You'll have to go slow for me, using Peugeot terms for parts as I'm going over the factory manuals and parts fiche. My guess is that I've got some worn bushings. At least that what I got by doing a good search of the Peugeot-L newsgroup. The fronts are adjustable by some voodoo called "strut bending" where the engine is unbolted and the engine cradle is bent to adjust the camber. Any advice would be appreciated.

I dunno about going the electric water pump route. If cost is a factor, even getting the W-H unit would be cheaper. You don't want any low-buck thinking to permiate any aspect of the cooling system. Google "electric water pump" "daily driver" Meziere seems to be the brand of choice out there with the V8 crowd.

So what was the exact problem and your brisk fix my fine neighbor to the south?

I used the factory Peugeot thermostat when I replaced mine. Works perfectly and IS a drop in replacement. Most people don't follow the factory prescribed procedure for bleeding the system and have air in the system. But, glad your good to go.

I'm looing to restore many of the electric (mainly window) motors in my car to like-new (or hopefully better) performance. I've searched the net a couple of times looking for general information, but came up short. Has anybody gone down this road? There must be some people that do this. Old cars from other makers and the like. Any direct experience? Thanks, K o l l

Yes, that all makes sense, Victor. Perhaps the 89 would have been a neat car, but they (all 14 of them?) all came with ABS. Ever get a chance to drive a Torsen car? Rumor on the Peugeot-L list is that the ABS cars (mine) can be fitted with a LSD and it won't adversely effect the braking. I guess Peugeot was taking the conservative route. Do you know if they put the Torsen in automatic cars? I'm figuring what my odds are of actually getting my hands on a Torsen unit!

Sorry to hijack the thread, but Wow. About a month ago I downloaded the video of your SCCA exploits. I was floored. Lke everybody else here, I'm also eager to learn the dirty details of PSA's inner workings back when they were still a (small) player in the US market. First question is: why didn't you campaign again in an 88 or 89 turbo 505? Wouldn't such a car be even more competitive or had the car been reclassified? A N9TEA with ABS in your hands could crossed quite a few checkered flags I would guess. I can understand why any sane person wouldn't. I can only imagine how grueling it would be to run from town to town racing for two years solid. I don't know who the bigger stud is, your car or you. I followed (online) Andi Barachi's MKIV Supra do One Lap and that seemed like a nightmare. Ever get thrown in jail for gong 3 MPH over in Ohio? Ramble on all you want. You're the best thing to happen to us since Peugeot Pete! Koll Seattle

I forget, do you have an ABS car? If so, then 14 inchers are a no-go.

I went down that road. Not fun. No real interchangeability I came across. Realistically, if you had to, you could make nearly any alternator work. The tricky part would be mechanical - ie: correct fitment. However, there's a much easier route and you get to keep you stock Valeo. Have it rebuilt. I had mine rebuilt and it worked fine for 6 months and then took a poo. Turns out the jobber brushes wore down in that time. I must've put a whole 3,000 miles on it. Anyway, I happened to have in my stash a new Peugeot brush/regulator assembly and once that went in, it was fine. The charge indicator in the dash still ever so faintly glows when idling with lights on and I hit the brake pedal, but so far, I'm keeping the battery charged as intended. Other rebuildables required for an alternator R&R are readily available to rebuild shops - bearings, etc. The only thing that will really cause you grief is the armature or stator. Those things nearly never wear out. If you're going to tackle the alternator job, do yourself a favor and tackle the power steering issue(s). At least the part where the PS resevoir douches the alternator. Cost to me was $100. The correct regulator/brush assembly for my car (87 S - N9TE/5sp, alternator Valeo A14N88) is a Paris-Rhone unit (pn: 5761.67). W-H has them for $97.

Ya, but realistically, what's it gonna take to get a N9T to do 300+ all day? A crate engine from Danielson? High end engine management (Autronic, Motec, etc.) Right there you're at $10K if you do it on the cheap. Yup, that's not MKIV territory, but I've some some outstanding last gen MKIIIs (91-92) go for that kind of money. The N9T is a similar engine to the M Toyota engine. Mid eighties L tronic bad boy. Except the M has 4 valves per cylinder and is .8 liters bigger. I've known scores of guys that who's wallets have crashed against the cruel rocky shores of engine upgrades. Blood, sweat and tears and still not what they wanted. Sure, some did it well. But for every guy who runs well, there are 5 blown engines. All I'm saying is that it's just as hard to do a N9T engine as a 7M except parts are rarer than shit and it's not as good as a starting point to begin with. I think most of the 1000HP guys did a little bottom end work. But, I know more than one guy who did 900 on a stock 2J block. http://www.t04r.com/to4r.php I'm not looking to pee in anybody's Cheerio's®, but people who aren't familiar with these engines should be given the straight dope. Those of us who've been around the List and other places for a few years have heard way too many N9T sob stories. In fact, it's precisely the scarcity of basic N9T parts that keeps me from going down this path. If I get the money, I will go for a crate engine and all the goodies, but short of that, I feel my efforts would't meet my expectations. That said, I think the current efforts by guys on this board to do good stuff are very valid. FMIC, turbos, exhaust. All critical things that have to be sorted out right before any serious HP is on the table. I'd like to see a little more about fuel.

Hey Puck, I used to have a 87 Supra. I still own a Cressida and I cut my teeth on the M engines. If you want to put 300 HP down, it's gonna be real tough. You'll be using nearly the identical Bosch L fuel system as the M engine(s). You'll get one chance with an old N9T engine and whatever you can scramble to find as replacements. If you can afford to get an honest 300 from a N9T, then you got enough cash to get a real nice MK3 Supra or even a MKIV. All I'm telling you is appreciate the car for the complete package. You'll never take a big turbo MK3 or BPU MKIV. You can still buy a 7M-GTE short block from Toyota and JDM engines are $1200 from several vendors. The M engine also has a nice 4 valve-per-cylinder head that tuners just leave alone it is so good. Just look what the last guy on the list had to do to his motor http://www.7mpower.com/raymond_khublal.shtml If you really want to make a 505 run like the wind, you'll have to swap in another motor. I measured, a 7M won't fit! Then again, you might start spitting differentials and drivelines with 300HP. If I decided to do it, I'd go with a 3S. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Don't overlook the cheapest option. Changing out that hose. Mine looked perfect and didn't make any hissing sounds, but it still leaked. Any false air will kill any efforts to get a stable idle.

The pump is not supposed to run constantly. You'll burn it out in no time if that's the case. It is meant to cycle. If you've removed all the wiring, I'd just see about putting a standard non-abs master cylinder in there. You'll probably need a donor car that can supply the vacuum booster, etc.

I don't think there is any interchangability between the ABS and non-ABS systems. I think you've got to swap out pretty much the entire system. That and the front suspension is substantially different on the ABS cars. So, things like wheel bearings and rotors will still be on the outrageous side. However, I think the admin here has successfully ditched (or worked-around) his ABS system. He'll no doubt let you know. If you (or anyone else) wants to get rid of their ABS stuff, let me know. I'm keeping mine as long as I can.

As many of you know, my interior was damaged by a vandal last April. I've been looking, but to no avail for a set of leathers for the front and back. If you have some or know where I can find some let me know. Thanks, K o l l 87 S

Just joined up. There is never enough Peugeot stuff to get. So, I advocate as much as possible. I've got some rare manuals, but to scan them properly would mean destroying the perfect binding. Might do it anyway. They're generally designed to be held with 3 ring binders anyway. K o l l 87 S