V-M

I orderd set from england, cost 240e. V-M

I have asked price for these (local store), ARP-200-8428 ARP-300-8396 ARP-AU7700-1B There was allready discution about these bolts and I would use those on opposite way so no need to change block treath. And for fast look from summitracing that set would be around 150$ (imported here price would be ~220e (postage and taxes)) V-M

Back in track, some things happened with new engine. Block machined for Volvo 92mm pistons and main axel for 0,1mm over size and conrods (saab) for saab 0,25mm over size. New pistonrings came today so all parts are ready for complete build. Will see in next week if have motivation enough to start final fittings and measurements. 1. block with new paint 2. main axel canals cleaning with wooden taps (to keep cleaner in) 3. new back seal oil bath 4. glass blown and lack painted cover I try to remeber take pictures time to time. V-M

My comment from 150$ was on based just arp net search like this one -> http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/brand/arp/product-line/arp-pro-series-cylinder-head-stud-kits?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&N=400295%2B315797%2B4294948658 Some one has taken original bolt measurements? Maybe some other brand car manuf bolt set will do the job. Answering to my self. M12 (19mm head), bolt length 190mm, threath lenght 27mm and lift 1,25 V-M

well there is sets sold as ^150$ so it sounds like shooting in dark. Bit more info before proceed V-M

per stud? Bit pricy... Why no nuts and spacers? Not even offered? V-M

Price? 2 sets if price is around 100$ V-M

I just got all machined parts but waiting piston rings so estimation is 3weeks from now. What is MLS price diff from 1 or 5? V-M

I have used spreading water spray or small amounts start pilot spray on possible leak spots is easy way to check leaks. Dont use too much pilot spray or it will explode... and how I know that U can just take that hose out and replace it temp any hose fits to check. I have connected it also bypassing turbo. Directly from meter to head inlet. V-M

If you just get std bore size info thats okay. Any thickness will do (probaply they have that 0.059" if any) V-M

Did they have any on stock? V-M

Check that knock sensor box on right side on inside console, same issues occured when heater adjuster starts to leak and it leaks directly in that box and there is no hole where water can come out so it will fill up and destroy box. Cause it should indicate someting when reving. Hard idle also if there is leak on inlet side (try close any hose in inlet, also break vacuum). V-M

Interest to know what they have in std bore size. If no stock then I'll think some other supplier. V-M

when running try to unplug sparkwire one cylinder at the time to see if its one cyl or more general prob. V-M

I have trying to contact cometic now 3 months (sending emails, fb contact) no answer. Calling is way too complicated to proceed in my case. Any direct contact name there or other way? Or maybe they not interest to deal with beond artic cirle I was just trying to get info about availability and price at this stage. STD size. V-M

If cmpression is okay (readings?) and plug wires are correct ones and installed right. Next one is to check cam at there is all nozzels as they should. Small wear will not effect engine run so much (it will worn fast when started). How did rough run start, at sudden or little by little? V-M

Good at there was easy solution for problem. V-M

Some billet wheels are looking strange cause rough surface which is not good for air flow. Have no real data about it, just a feeling. I agree on copying. I have not seen any failure caused by casted wheel. Billet has good value if have made for make better spooling or flow or more air mass. V-M

Yes V-M

I'll go with same set up as Tama did and I have build one engine with same setup to other finland hobbyist some years ago. Volvo B21ET 92mm pistons and saab conrods, cheap and easy build. Those pistons are hard to find (new or used) but can be done. Those engines are used also in us version of 740 turbo (my father did have imported one). I did buy my piston set from sweden around 100e including postage. Set of conrods was 50e. have some fade memories talking about it with joe years ago. V-M

Any has those C pilar turbo decals? V-M

I have used these c8e plugs mainly with dani head and cam, tested cr9ek but there was some probs when cold weather or someting (cant remember for sure) Still have them and try when new set up is running. V-M

I used std ones on those, I only added adjustable fuel pressure cap and added more 0.5-0.6bar pressure (old pump did not give more and it dropped 0.1-0.2 when boost) and adjust boost to 0.8-0.9bar peaking 1bar. I think those was only ones from mixture pow. Those changes u mentioned are are common ones but I decided to use fuel pressure cause easy to adjust and neat installation. U ment water temp resistance I think, to ecu provide richer mixture (cold engine)? I have currently those original Bosch 300. And will set all same way to new engine to ensure at all works as before and then start to install all those bits collected during years 600cc inj.. Megasq etc. tempting to put two Garret GT17 (have some extra on self) just for fun and experiment also bought fuel pump bosch -044 for more pressure and flow V-M

Color in spark plugs? That work only when using lead contained fuels. Seen some changes in plug color only if something is really wrong (not working at all). Also u can disconnect that over boost circuit and try sofly if it makes diff. Those over boost switches I have was from 1,0-1,4bar limit. Sounds like stucked wastegate (common prob). V-M

Yeah... but how many 80's or 90's cars are having wb with self tuning ecu yeah some after market installations. surely even re85 can be used (after pump and lines etc is changed). But with these old systems and engines this ethanol is not giving any good sides. (there I need to correct my self... here in cold countries it was in since 60's very common to add 1-2dl ethanol/methanol in each tank fill to prevent ice in carb and tank). V-M