V-M

Do you mean that "box" next to ignition coil? V-M

I'm here, not so active but trying I have answered in pm. Sending is costly for those heavy parts for private person but I'll have a look. Luckily I have 2 extra cranks. Sending is 100-150e roughly, depending how strong and heavy package gets. V-M

Thats hard work! Respect! I have put in parts better condition turbo chassis than that. This latest one which I'm selling is far better in chassis side. If you need special parts for engine or chassis let me know (dani head, cam, rockers and full sets).

Volvo B21ET pistons (92mm) and saab B201-202 conrods, all mod of that engine used same conrods (134mm), both takes power up to 400hp. 3 engines now build with that set up. Pistons (used) and new rings 300e and conrods (used) 50e. Pistons are hard to find, my set came from sweden. But in US there was many 740 series with that engine so imagine those pistons could be found from delalers old storages or engines from scrap yards. V-M

My engine works nicely loosing nicely grip 3 gear when accel (got fine of speeding yesterday, 200e) pff

I was looking information about BMW 16v 320is/M3 engines (s14b20-23) and did not find good pictures or information so I just deside to order headgasget for measure and see. Compared on copper N9T head gasget. So its no go also. Bretty close but no.

Those are available on web stores? seems around 10$ fex -> https://www.autonvaraosatpro.fi/ajusa-7246028

There was sunroof cables available on ebay few days ago.

Yeah, was looking info also and all looked correct when I ordered them. Seems some error on studs or coding. That nut coding was from local importer. Runned engine hot few times, opened valve cover to check valve gap and checked torgues of nuts. All looked fine and all in same torgue as I did set them. All okay so far. Found one initial problem which could caused earlier problems or maybe it came during not using engine. Hose from expansion can was stuck some air did go trough but when I opened both ends and put pressured air it make pop sound and some thing came out and air started flow easily.

Engine running nicely and no major probs. Now need to fix things for inspection pow. Brakes, lights etc...

2 different models exists. Short <-85, long -> 86

Nuts came this morning from France (pretty fast delivery at home door). Surely there could been other alternatives than these Porsche 924,944,928 nuts but that was only which I found with correct spec and reasonable time limit. Nuts fitted perfectly as u see. Correct! 300-8307 are M12x1,25 but 300-8307-1 M12x1,5 is not listed cause its special order limitation. Note! This currently installed head is one which was self made danielson head with similar cindered cam than danielson but has bit more lift on cam (if I remeber correct it was 0,3mm more on cam, so its around 1mm in valve)

Small draw back... those nuts are wrong ones. wrong threat these 300-8396 are M12x1,75 and it should be 300-8307-1 M12x1,50. Lets see those Porsche 944 head nuts are suitable (ordered them from France yesterday). Those 300-8307-1 was available from ARP but delivery time was 4 weeks, and those 944 nuts should arrive tomorrow or monday.

Time flies This morning I thinked at today I'll do some garage work. Engine has been ready pretty long time And all needed parts been there also long time. So here is result (see pictures). Tomorrow I'll put head on if I get some help lifting it on place, have to be accurate cause those loose rings can move easily wrong spot. Put also new treads (helicoil) on head side front cause those are often tighten too much and threats are worn. V-M

Yeah, those are also options but why change hubs? Why not just drill holes for desired pattern and do tread there or place studs? I have extra hubs to do also those but I wanted explore this original size first. Also one reason is at I have 6 sets of original wheels (14"- 15"). Some have done pattern change also with spacers. V-M

Also first ABS versions did not have lock at all. Reasoning was at at the time there was not confidence enough to ensure ABS working with locked diffs V-M

Used same pattern on title cause year has gone and not much happened on car side. Changed summer tires and did anti corrosion for car bottom. Now its time to change winter tires just in case I have time to start engine swap. But first, here is my latest innovation I opened google and just browsed wheels on general... after some time my eyes catch someting which looked somehow good. Large bolt pattern, I searched more info and so I found at Japan made suv and pickups have lug pattern 6 X 139,7 (some us cars have it also) and next day I go for local tire store and picked one Toyota Hiace wheel for sample. Looked good. Then I stared looking offerings, many promising ones with wide selection of size and et. But then I found good one and even more better it was 16" (last picture) but I was 1h too late. Those was sold. Kept looking and I found exactly same looking 15" set as I have original wolfrace 140x4 set for summer tires. Today I recieved set (second picture). Not sure how it will go but looks promising

Here is some pic. I dont know ford pattern. Do you ment for exh pipe side or manifold side? Many turbos have pipe side fitting same as n9t but none have same on manifold side. V-M

There was sweden and switzerland versions of engine after ->86 (low emission ones). V-M

2 piece ones are old <-85 versions, some replaced after that year cause those are fitting new assembly. Only reason to keep old one is if stick on original exhaust. Sold last non cracked original 2 piece garret to Danmark. Have still 5 original 2 piece turbos and all of them are cracked same way. Same problem is also in other t3 and t4 (t4oe) type turbos. They all cracks on wastegate and some one also in housing. V-M

CIH is very familiar engine for me (my Opel Manta have 2.0L) Need to check head gasket for bore match. That CIH 16v is bit too rare and costly anyway, need to check if opel fellow hobbyists have some extra V-M

Yes. Need also to follow that lead for BMW heads and see if there is closer ones. Would be nice to have selection of heads and lurk around with 505 turbo head gasget Need to ask some disassemble stores if I can "shop" around next summer V-M

Found some more spacing info: Ford OHC/Cosworth YB 102 mm US Ford Lima-series 106 mm How much is Mi16 Bore spacing? V-M P.S document about that lada poch (also other parts from 505 used and ROC relations)-> http://www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter/resources/Lada_Niva_Dakar_preparation_part2.pdf

Was so busy to sent it, forgot to take picture of those. (just for those who are curious about special bolt) V-M

I think its just microswitch and you can measure it just with multimeter. I have opened some and just cleaned it. Some has actual microswitch in and its generally used part and separately sold in any electrical shops. Not seen potentiometer on any of my cars so far. If there is aftermarket ecu used then there could be potentiometer. Not sure about USA sold cars if they have. But its bretty easy to open and see if not sure. V-M