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I made adapter from old plug, pipe and air connector. I would check timing and distributor gear play. Also distributor internals. Look with timing lamp if there inconstancy in spark and advance from idle to 4000-5000 area. I made one gear with slotting but it did not make realy difference with dani cam.

Fuel pump? Have you lamda to read afr? Stock turbo? Stock turbo exhaust side is too small to handle over 200hp specially that newer model which has smaller even than early models. Temp and back pressure comes high when revs go up.

From experience I would say at you need to replace head gasket. It will leak, surely you can try. I have tryed it several times, also tryed to cut that front from new gasket and used silicon in that connection point but no luck.

I think you mean this one bosch 0 280 230 006.

Dude from Finland spotted 505 on his USA trip

Have you checked detonation ecu box? I dont remember if its located same as earlier model, in earlier model its located under dash so at if heater valve is leaking it leaks directly to box and its not water tight. So in time it consume moist and starts fail. If its okay remember at least turn it so at connector is down to prevent it happen.

Sent me PM and define what parts you need.

New front plate. This is for NA engine but fits also to N9T. Only difference is at needs one spacer for steering pump holder, I have this same one on my car.

Bearing set's available in 0,1mm and 0,75mm and 1mm, only main bearings, some shells (half's) for 0,2mm 6pcs. One Std set available for main and conrod.

First measure crank and see how much needed for grind. In case its out off repair then I'll can look my storage for better option. Surely welding and regrind is possible but thats bit extreem in cost way cause it needs to be straighten also and of cause all grinding to top off that.

Here is some info, first pdf is about na engine but crank and con rod sizes are same. That N9T does not list 1mm over size but I have those also. img20230209_20124398.pdf img20230209_20134674.pdf

Are you sure for H7? Should be H4?

It hard to say what is good for driving cause it totally depends overall and combination of things in car. My setup is original front shocks with modified valves (pretty easy job) and bit stiffer oil, tyres are 205/55/15 and rear shocks are koni adjustable with extra springs. Springs are currently original but I have sets for front Volvo 240 and rear Mercedes 124 (not sure about models, those have been on my storage over 10y) Engine has currently around 250-300hp and thats not enough in summer to keep slides in control, if power cuts then its hard moves cause long front suspension movements. Hard to control compared to other rwd cars. I'll look new rear tyres for size 225/50/15 for next summer. One comment on handling, high tyre wall is also flexible so its not ideal for handling in fex track or sport style. Its more comfortable type of usage, more silent and softer feeling.

I bit doubt over 130 (200km/h) speeds with original suspension, in straight and wide road and good weather maybe 140. I have done 210km/h with GPS but suspension and engine is not stock.

There is many power houses if looking widely from 4cyl to V6 which are easy to put 400+hp wheel and much cheaper than building it from original or with engine which needs a lot of fitting work. I would say at this current build as I have is around 300-350hp and was cheap option to build (did take time to collect and fit all). Surely needs to use some more adjustable ECU for that numbers but thats an another story (currently running it with original ECU and injectors etc). From memory BX 4TC there was some text saying at it was measured around 400hp but I dont remember where it was sayed. Still pretty weak numbers compared to other B group cars at the time.

As said above these heads are originally not designed for turbo usage and thats one reason to add to list, heat waves and knocking (even slight ones) combined to over heat are killer for this head. Good thing is at usually heads which are professionally welded repair are not so sensitive for those issues mentioned. I have passed to other users or used my self around 15-20 heads. And still have 4-5 heads on storage which are not welded (no dani heads anymore). Welding costs around 400e + machinery+valve work. I did make one dani head from normal one but that was very costly, combined price was around 1800-2000e. I have T4OE (from Group2 Lancia integrale), saab 9000 IC, Volvo pistons (B21et), Dani head and cam, special head gasket from italy with separate seal rings (can be reused).

Insurance not available here, max 2kg items are can be insured. So totally sucks. Still waiting some answers from carrier.

Carrier just informed me at they only cover std amount money, not based item value crap! I sent package allready last year November.

I did make good package of complete head and sent it to USA... and it seemed lost some where. It did leave Finland but then trail is lost Local sender back payment only covers partially this lost. But problem is at those heads are not available. SHIT... This is last time I'll sent anything valuable by carrier which does not cover full back payment.

They are same lift. Only difference is that oil channel.

It depends what are your goals with engine and of cause budget. Standard pistons are weak, those can take around 220hp with good knocking control. Standard turbo is max 220hp, peak could be bit more but starts too much heat. Standard head is not first limiting thing, but there is custom head and cams available. But there is long storys here in forums about these things. Just ask and lets see if can help.

Hi, there is some sources in Finland for those. https://peugeotclub.fi/varaosat/ If you need help for queries or else. let me know

Looks very nice work! Precise and quality!