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todds

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About todds

  • Birthday 09/02/1976

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cambridge, MA
  • Interests
    Old french bicycles, audio gear, coffee

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  1. I still haven't figured out how to get it out and have given up for the moment till I know more. I don't want to break anything. I guess my radio will have to lay silent for the time being ?
  2. Hi All, Does anyone know the correct procedure to remove an original 505 radio from an early dash? I see two screws up by the top of the radio portion and tried removing the ashtray below but found nothing in there. After removing the screws it was more loose but still nowhere near coming out. Thanks, Todd
  3. Thanks, I have new rotors for it. So I have to remove the big nut eh? I guess I just hammer the staked portions away with a punch or something... Does this mean I should replace that big nut with a new one as well? I imagine eventually you can't really stake it in place any more. Are there torque specs for all these things? Thanks, Todd
  4. Hi, Can anyone explain to me how to remove the rotors on this car? I can see the 4 allen head bolts thru the hole in the existing rotor and looking at my replacement rotors it seems that they attach from *behind*? I can't fathom how this is to take place. I'm assuming the four allen bolts undo some portion of the hub and somehow it slides off, then the rotor comes off. I also see a gigantic nut in the middle of the hub that probably holds it to the axle, it seems to be staked into place. I'm hoping that doesn't have to come off too, it looks nasty, but I have a feeling it probably does...
  5. Thanks Rabin, a diagram would be wonderful but actually drawing up my own and piecing things together from various other models/years has taught me a lot about my car's electrical system and generalities that peugeot uses. For example, I've found that wires with "M" in them or M and a number are generally grounds, for instance wire 16 may be the positive lead for dome lights and M16 will be a ground wire for the dome lights. Other things seem to be common between the models, like some of the numbers cross over. "25" seems to refer to instrument lighting in general, 113 is the switch wiring for the rear window defogger and 107 is the heating element itself. It helps that peugeot did a great job labeling all the wires right near the connectors! I've solved the issues of strangeness with my clock, hazards, dome lights, radio and surprise surprise, there is now a key chime too. ? Along the way I've found some puzzling things. My issues were *related* to the burnt track on my fuse board and blown #5 fuse, but I do not believe were *caused* by it. The track I have that burned up went to the horn switch on the stalk by the steering wheel, strangely enough with this track destroyed the horn STILL worked. This is very odd and I'll be investigating why, I'm guessing perhaps someone wired the horn separately to pass inspection or something. I don't believe the horn or horn switch caused the original problem, I actually believe it was caused by.... the starter! The reason all of those accessories above were not working is because my accessories track on the fuse board was dead, at 0V even with the key on. This track powers the left side of a bunch of fuses, #4, #5, #6, #7, #9, and the optional right position of #14. The track itself appeared fine, it was connected to a large brown wire underneath the board which went thru the side of the plastic fuse box and seemed original, it had original wrapping and routing back around the brake booster. It snaked down and went to an original loop connector and was screwed on by itself to a part of the starter relay, the wire number is "1A". Apparently this was supposed to be powering my accessories with 12V+ all the time instead of being ground. Probably also burned out the #5 fuse/etc. The other wire connected to the screw was large and disappeared very quickly into a hole in the starter itself. Note that this WASN'T the post on the relay that the battery cable goes to. I unscrewed this 1A wire from the starter relay and hooked it straight to the battery + terminal along with the other positive leads, fit on like it belonged there. I wonder if someone misplaced it when changing the battery or something, they didn't do the greatest job of this simplest of tasks with the terminals crammed in place and the battery kicking around loose. The really weird thing about all this is that all of the wiring diagrams I have appear to send 1A to the battery anyway! Maybe someone with an early diesel can look under the hood and see if a large brown wire is going to the "other" starter relay post (not the one with all the other wires and the + battery lead going to it). Another issue I discovered is that one of my two white square relays towards the back of the board were leaking some voltage! There's one for the accessories and one for the rear window defogger. Using my multimeter I checked across the relay on the track that powers the accessories (supposed to be key-switched on or off) and the hot +12v track from the battery. I found that with the key ON it all worked fine, but with the key OFF it would cycle back and forth between 0.00V and a a few hundred mV up to 1V or so every 2 seconds. That can't be good for my battery! I unplugged the identical defogger relay and tried it in the Acc spot and lo and behold, it worked perfectly leaking nothing. Worth a check on your own car if you're reading this and easy to do. I've found an alternate part number for a Meyle relay made in germany that should swap in for $5 instead of the ancient "Valvar Italia type 23" which was past it's prime on my car. I'll post back and let you all know how it works out. /<>/>/> Cambridge, MA
  6. Thanks, My plans are to use it as an occasional car (I have a daily driver already). The problems I'm discovering are mostly electrical in nature. It's interesting as my owner's manual seems to be for a gas car even though it's the correct year. It has pictures of an older style of fusebox with bayonet style fuses and wiring that makes no sense in light of my car, for instance it refers to things like lambda sensors and other items a diesel wouldn't have. The #'s simply don't match up. My car instead has a newer blade style fuse holder with #'s 1 to 14. I sure could use a diesel wiring diagram or owner's manual fuse box diagram! Mine is an 81 but any year would help shed light at this point. The problems: My clock works great when I hook it up to 12V, keeps great time, however not when plugged into it's place in the car. Other things nearby that don't work: Cigarette Lighter, Hazard lights, Dome light, Key light, Turn Signals work correctly outside the car but the indicators in the dash flash both at once instead of individually (is this normal?) The radio *sort* of wants to work but doesn't, turns on, you can hear the speakers hiss and radio lights come on, AM/FM switch works but the digital display for the station is off and tuning doesn't seem to do anything. Probably a different issue than the above. I dug around in my fuse box today, pulled it out and found this: Not sure if you can see but the circuit board track that runs under the middle bottom row of fuses is burnt out, it runs from the 23 Brown wire to the 10 Brown wire on the other side, through the #5 fuse, which was blown, and then to the large 1A brown wire underneath, which I'm guessing is some sort of always hot type lead. My theory is that this is the circuit for the stuff that doesn't work (above) including the clock, as I saw that 23 Brown wire appears to do that on a later gas wiring diagram I have for an '85. I tried drawi ng up my own crappy version of *my* fuse box and wiring here: Please excuse the typing, it was originally a letter to my gf. At any rate, I could REALLY use a diesel wiring diagram if anyone has one to help clear up this detective work! TIA, /<>/>/> Cambridge, MA
  7. Hi Pug Lovers, I just wanted to introduce myself to the forum here as I've acquired a 1981 505S Turbodiesel, potentially a silver edition as it seems to have all the gear. I've attached a few photos in the as-found condition after a decent wash and general cleanup. It has 59k miles on it and was originally a san diego area car, the next card in the maintenance book was for 60k so I guess they kept up with it! There are, of course, a few problems to address but for starters here's the car in my driveway: I haven't had a car with round headlights in a while! Almost looks a little Jaguar-ish with the US lights Driving thru Boston traffic on the way back home to Cambridge Interesting stable-mate parked next to my house... Think he wants to race? ? Nice interior after almost 40 years! Clock ticks, IF I wire it direct... (more about that later) I have over twice that mileage on my daily driver, all the guages are working and accurate Thanks for having a look, /<>/>/> Cambridge, MA
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