91MR2

Fair point, I already cleaned everything at the sensor, might have to go up and check it at the block. Also I'm not sure what the resistance should even be on the sensor, anyone have that information? Lastly, electrical is not my specialty. I have a multimeter but can't even remember the last time I used it. Also not sure which setting I should be checking it on. Any help with these matters would be most appreciative…

I agree, I'm not too concerned about the oil level gauge, that's simple enough to check on my own...

Hey guys, was able to get the car up on my lift today and figure some things out. For starters, the connection to my oil temperature sensor was fine, no corrosion, just a little bit of oil, so I disconnected and cleaned everything, and put it back together snug. Took it for a drive this evening and all the same symptoms. Another thing I noticed is that the oil level gauge is quite erratic too. When you turn the ignition on, it gives you a reading on the gauge, if I turn it off and then turn it back on again I get a completely different reading, and so on and so forth. So it just seems like the sensor is bad at this point. I spoke to Brian Holm, but he doesn't have any in stock and cannot get one for at least six weeks. Anyone else know where I can get a sensor in the meantime? I checked all the regular places I would normally check, but no luck…

OK gentlemen, have a small update at the moment with regards to the oil temperature gauge... Finally picked up an infrared thermometer today. MASSIVE disparity between what the gauge on the car is reading and what the infrared thermometer is reading... Oil temperature gauge on the car was reading around 230 and the infrared thermometer on the bottom of the oil pan was reading between 160 and 180 depending on where I was shooting it... Now to figure out why, about to put the car on my lift, will report back soon I hope…

Yes, I'm quite sure it has one, and pretty sure that was even covered in this thread some pages ago. I'm going to be checking a lot of things this week with the car on my lift, I'll report back any relevant findings...

Thanks Mike, I use Mobil 1, which is what I use in all my cars. This info. is helpful, since the biggest struggle in owning this car is finding others that have them where you can compare/contrast issues. Even the guy I bought mine from, his '92 Mi16 oil temp. never seems to get hotter than around 190-200. If I recall correctly, Savo's cars seem to also be in that 190-200 range. So am just still trying to gather as much info. as possible as other Mi16 owners...

Took the Peugeot out for another ride last night, as we've had an unusually early spring. Drove it for a good hour or so. As always, paid attention to the oil temp. gauge, as that's always been a concern of mine. Biggest concern being not so much the temperature it runs at (which should still be safe, if the gauge is to be believed), but how much more it is than the water temp., which is consistently around 170F (my oil temp. is often closer to 220F, even 230F). This disparity still doesn't sit well with me. Hoping I have a bad oil temp. sensor, since on a drive in the fall, I did watch the oil temp. gauge mysteriously drop down very low on a drive (see post somewhere on page 15), only to return back to normal after turning the car off and then back on. Will be picking up an infrared thermometer, as well as check the connection on the bottom of the engine, perhaps something is loose. Took a few shots from last night, they are rather poor due to darkness, but the niagara river is in the background...

Thanks for the input guys. I took the car out for a ride today, and in the daylight, it actually doesn't look as bad as I initially thought. Still not great, but passable for now. I think I will peel it off later in the season, and just do what Mike said and spray it myself. It's simple enough to do. Here's the photos from today.

Well, 10 coats of peel paint later, and here we are. It's both better and worse, but mostly better. This peel paint doesn't lay so great, leaves some splotchiness (this a word?), but the color match is certainly much better, and I was definitely after that. The other issue is that even though it's gloss white, the finish is quite flat. May have to buy a can of clear to finish it off. I'll drive it for a bit this way and see how much I can tolerate it...either way, not a bad investment, worth a try for $25...

Well, got some vinyl wrap quotes for my hood yesterday, and they were more expensive then what I wanted to spend. The quotes ranged from 150-300, and the repaint quote was 200. Might as well just have it painted eventually. However, since I bought the peel paint last fall, decided to give that a try today. Free is always nice, so we will see how it looks when it dries. The first 2 shots are prepping, and the last 2 shots are after 8 (yes, you read that correctly) coats...

Some pictures from yesterday's drive, parked in front of a European cafe' in Buffalo...

Yes, good point, I know this and should have been more clear with my post. I said blast and coat, but really meant whatever needs to be done to strip and/or paint safely/correctly, ha...

I agree for the most part, with regards to gearboxes, however the concern can be with certain "yellow metals" as is such with the Esprit (Renault) application. The Renault transaxle calls for Castrol TAF-X, which is very difficult to source in the states these days. A tried and true acceptable substitute has been Redline MT90. Again, I know this is an exception, but still something burned into my brain, ha...

Yes, that is what the factory manual calls for, but I've had a hard time finding it in synthetic, I've talked to many mechanics and they all said 75/90 should work just the same…

Bean, thanks for the advice, but since you don't know how it may perform in the Mi16, for now I'm going to stick with the Mobil 1 75/90 synthetic, only since I know how well it works in there. If other Mi16 guys can chime in, I'd think about it. I hope this came out the right way, ha. I'm very gun shy when it comes to new gear fluids, and here's why - the 2nd gen. MR2's and Esprit throughout it's lifetime (using both Citroen and later Renault) gearboxes are not the strengths of these cars. I've dealt with crunchy synchros enough growing up to know that I don't want to ever deal with them again, ha...

Hello gentleman, long time without a check in... Winter has pretty well wrapped up (famous last words?) as of March 1st, so been charging up the batteries of some of the cars over the last week or so. Took the Peugeot out for it's first ride in a few months today. It ran great. Couple things I plan to do with the car this season: - taking Bean's advice and going to have the hood wrapped. Never got around to the peel paint, and for the price of vinyl, going to see how that comes out I think... - purchasing a used valve cover from Brian Holm, going to have it blasted and powdercoated, then install on my car. Using this method to avoid driving downtime (maybe will put my original one on the garage wall...). - change the gear oil back to synthetic (Mobil 1 75/90). I had that in originally and the car shifted great, but when one of the axle seals let go last summer, ended up filling it back up with regular. The synthetic makes the shift quality better... - my car seems to have developed an oil leak from one of the cam seals unfortunately, so my "new" timing belt could very well be compromised in time if I don't sort out the cam seal leak. So, the car will get new cam seals and again a new timing belt... That's it for now, hope you guys are doing well...

Goce/srdt, thank you both. I will look into both of these solutions soon... On a different note, does anyone have an extra valve cover that they would be willing to sell? I'd like to buy a used one, and then have it stripped and powder coated so that I can swap on and off without being down with the car in the meantime...

Gentlemen, happy new year. We had a decent snowstorm on christmas, but quiet and dry weather otherwise since, so took the Peugeot out today for a ride. Car ran great, but had an interesting thing happen. After about 20 minutes of driving, the oil temp. gauge (which has been well chronicled in this thread with me thinking that it was maybe reading a tad high), started DROPPING out of nowhere to near the bottom of the gauge as I drove along. When it happened, I pulled off, shut the car off, and then restarted, everything went back to normal. Signs of an oil temp. sensor/switch on it's way out? Also, ideas on where to get one? Not listed on rockauto, and not sure of a part # so ebay is like a game of roulette... Here are photos of the evidence...

Hi Goce, I didn't really get on the car too hard, so tough to say, all I know is that the CEL seems to be a long gone issue put to pasture (well until the next issue, ha), and the car runs and drives as I imagine it once did back in the early 90's... Very pleased, it was definitely worth all the reading/research/work to get to this point...

Yesterday was a brisk but dry day, so I took the Peugeot out for about an hour, ran excellent, looking forward to many more drives like this throughout the cold season, so long as the snow and salt stay away…

Ha, thanks guys. Bean, doing the peel paint may not age well (or even look good, for that matter), I agree, but for $20 in paint, it is worth a try, no? Souvenier, I already got a quote of around $200, so that will likely happen at the earliest, in the spring, if the peel paint doesn't look good or hold up. This is just an easy winter project to make it look better...

Hey guys, I picked up a couple cans of white plasti-dip type paint, think I'm going to give myself a little winter project and try to paint the hood of my car in my garage. Best case, it is a better color match and will be passable for a while, worst case I just peel it off and continue to look at my crème colored hood with my otherwise original white paint. Stay tuned...

Things are starting to wind down this time of year, basically just getting ready for winter. I've washed/detailed/winterized all the cars and put them away, with the exception of the Mi16 and S2000, as I hope to drive them throughout the year as long as there is no snow/salt on the ground. Took some photos tonight of the Mi16 in downtown Buffalo, and got a few shots in front of a french café down there as well. Car continues to run well...

Hi Mike, I should've clarified in my last post, however the subject was also covered very early in my thread, the front shocks are still original Peugeot. I expressed much surprise that after 170,000 miles the original shocks could still be good, but they have great rebound and they are not leaking, so I stuck with your guys suggestion, and I am glad I did so...

Took the Mi16 out for about a couple hours this evening, still running great. One thing I think I might want to do is the front LCA bushings. They are the only thing I did not replace when I redid my front end this year (for no particular reason other than looking like they might be annoying to do). While the handling is great, it takes the bumps more harshly than I would think it should. Maybe that's just the way they are. Regardless, extremely pleased with where the car is at. As we roll into the cold season, I intend to drive it as often as possible throughout, so long as the roads are clear...