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91MR2

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Everything posted by 91MR2

  1. Small update, after speaking to Brian Holm, it seems there are 5 total sensors/switches related to coolant temperature. The 3 clustered near the thermostat / water jacket are the one for the temperature gauge (1 wire), one for the signal to the ECU, and one for the fans (we think). Then there are 2 others, a low coolant warning (suspected to be in the radiator), and an overheat light sensor (not exactly sure where this one is located). I ordered the sensor for the fans, as well as one for the temperature gauge (just to be sure everything is accurate/linked). Once it arrives I'll install and update accordingly.
  2. Also, I'd like to replace all the coolant related sensors, anyone know the part #'s and a good place to purchase from? Also, how many sensors there actually are? 3 or 4? More?
  3. Ok, let me look again on the car and see if I see a plug/sensor on the radiator. Thanks for the info.
  4. Gentlemen, another update... Took the car out for a ride the other day and noticed the cooling fans were taking WAY longer than normal to come on - close to 220, and even then only the low speed function (I think) seemed to come on. No sooner than when the car got that hot, I was merging onto the highway, and it quickly got back down to 175-180, which is pretty normal from what I've seen with this car. The car has 3 coolant temp. sensors that I'm aware of, the 1-pin connector for the gauge, the one nearby/below for the ECU, and one one that goes vertical up into the water jacket, which I think is for the fans? This sound correct? A friend and I did some diagnosing, and after jumping with a paper clip the one that we suspected was for the fans, the cooling fans instantly went on the high mode. Our takeways - not a wiring or relay issue, so that fan sensor most likely needs replacing? Thoughts?
  5. Gentlemen, long time, no updates... Been slammed this summer (which is the usual routine for me), and the Mi16 has regrettably gotten very little attention these past couple months (my work is busiest in the summer), however the gentleman I bought my car from did bring me a spare gauge cluster, once time allows I will pull mine out and see if it is even the same cluster as what I have. I believe there are 2 manufacturers. If they are the same, I'll swap out gauges and see what happens. Not much more I can go on at this point, since the new oil temp. sensor didn't change anything. Will update at that time... Hope you all are doing well.
  6. Guys, thanks for the responses. I like what you both are thinking, and will continue to try and figure out this issue. Does ANYONE know the specs of the oil temp. sensor? I have been unable to find them. That would be a great start, as my mechanic has some ideas as well...
  7. Gentlemen, long time, no update... I've been enjoying trouble free driving in the Mi16 for the last couple months, as I waited for my oil temperature sensor to arrive, and it finally did the other day, so after a few days of fiddling around in the garage, it is now installed. However, my issue is still there with the higher readings. My first clue that this wasn't going to fix my issue was when it arrived, I tested the ohms on it compared to my original one. Sadly, they were reading almost the same. I kind of figured that it was unlikely to cause any changes once the new one was installed, and of course that was the case. Was worth a shot for the low price/effort, plus my oil was due to be changed anyways... Seems the issue now may lie in the gauge itself (good call, Bean), since as I noted, the oil level gauge too gives seemingly incorrect/inconsistent readings. I now have to decide how far I want to go with this issue... Since I've been able to verify oil temperature with my infrared gauge (getting around 175-185 when I shoot the bottom of the pan), I think it is safe to assume my gauge is regularly reading about 50 degrees too high. I hate looking at it knowing this, but at least I know for sure now... Options at this point now are to pull the cluster and then ??? I already briefed my mechanic on this one, he's not sure yet if he wants to start pulling the cluster apart. Can't say I blame him, as I don't want to either. I could buy a used cluster from Brian Holm I guess, and then try to match the odometer. Or try to find the gauge itself if possible and swap into my cluster? But struggling a bit with the decision of whether it's worth it or not... Thoughts?
  8. Thanks for the information guys, I obviously have some more stuff to figure out here... I guess I never realized that the oil temperature sensor acted alone, and the oil level sensor is a different one altogether. I never considered that the gauge could be an issue, but now it seems like that is another potential here… Still looking for the specs on the oil temperature sensor, but I should be able to find it. I'll also check the connections at the block for both sensors and go from there... Will update soon, and thanks again, you guys are the best...
  9. Fair point, I already cleaned everything at the sensor, might have to go up and check it at the block. Also I'm not sure what the resistance should even be on the sensor, anyone have that information? Lastly, electrical is not my specialty. I have a multimeter but can't even remember the last time I used it. Also not sure which setting I should be checking it on. Any help with these matters would be most appreciative…
  10. I agree, I'm not too concerned about the oil level gauge, that's simple enough to check on my own...
  11. Hey guys, was able to get the car up on my lift today and figure some things out. For starters, the connection to my oil temperature sensor was fine, no corrosion, just a little bit of oil, so I disconnected and cleaned everything, and put it back together snug. Took it for a drive this evening and all the same symptoms. Another thing I noticed is that the oil level gauge is quite erratic too. When you turn the ignition on, it gives you a reading on the gauge, if I turn it off and then turn it back on again I get a completely different reading, and so on and so forth. So it just seems like the sensor is bad at this point. I spoke to Brian Holm, but he doesn't have any in stock and cannot get one for at least six weeks. Anyone else know where I can get a sensor in the meantime? I checked all the regular places I would normally check, but no luck…
  12. OK gentlemen, have a small update at the moment with regards to the oil temperature gauge... Finally picked up an infrared thermometer today. MASSIVE disparity between what the gauge on the car is reading and what the infrared thermometer is reading... Oil temperature gauge on the car was reading around 230 and the infrared thermometer on the bottom of the oil pan was reading between 160 and 180 depending on where I was shooting it... Now to figure out why, about to put the car on my lift, will report back soon I hope…
  13. Yes, I'm quite sure it has one, and pretty sure that was even covered in this thread some pages ago. I'm going to be checking a lot of things this week with the car on my lift, I'll report back any relevant findings...
  14. Thanks Mike, I use Mobil 1, which is what I use in all my cars. This info. is helpful, since the biggest struggle in owning this car is finding others that have them where you can compare/contrast issues. Even the guy I bought mine from, his '92 Mi16 oil temp. never seems to get hotter than around 190-200. If I recall correctly, Savo's cars seem to also be in that 190-200 range. So am just still trying to gather as much info. as possible as other Mi16 owners...
  15. Took the Peugeot out for another ride last night, as we've had an unusually early spring. Drove it for a good hour or so. As always, paid attention to the oil temp. gauge, as that's always been a concern of mine. Biggest concern being not so much the temperature it runs at (which should still be safe, if the gauge is to be believed), but how much more it is than the water temp., which is consistently around 170F (my oil temp. is often closer to 220F, even 230F). This disparity still doesn't sit well with me. Hoping I have a bad oil temp. sensor, since on a drive in the fall, I did watch the oil temp. gauge mysteriously drop down very low on a drive (see post somewhere on page 15), only to return back to normal after turning the car off and then back on. Will be picking up an infrared thermometer, as well as check the connection on the bottom of the engine, perhaps something is loose. Took a few shots from last night, they are rather poor due to darkness, but the niagara river is in the background...
  16. Thanks for the input guys. I took the car out for a ride today, and in the daylight, it actually doesn't look as bad as I initially thought. Still not great, but passable for now. I think I will peel it off later in the season, and just do what Mike said and spray it myself. It's simple enough to do. Here's the photos from today.
  17. Well, 10 coats of peel paint later, and here we are. It's both better and worse, but mostly better. This peel paint doesn't lay so great, leaves some splotchiness (this a word?), but the color match is certainly much better, and I was definitely after that. The other issue is that even though it's gloss white, the finish is quite flat. May have to buy a can of clear to finish it off. I'll drive it for a bit this way and see how much I can tolerate it...either way, not a bad investment, worth a try for $25...
  18. Well, got some vinyl wrap quotes for my hood yesterday, and they were more expensive then what I wanted to spend. The quotes ranged from 150-300, and the repaint quote was 200. Might as well just have it painted eventually. However, since I bought the peel paint last fall, decided to give that a try today. Free is always nice, so we will see how it looks when it dries. The first 2 shots are prepping, and the last 2 shots are after 8 (yes, you read that correctly) coats...
  19. Some pictures from yesterday's drive, parked in front of a European cafe' in Buffalo...
  20. Yes, good point, I know this and should have been more clear with my post. I said blast and coat, but really meant whatever needs to be done to strip and/or paint safely/correctly, ha...
  21. I agree for the most part, with regards to gearboxes, however the concern can be with certain "yellow metals" as is such with the Esprit (Renault) application. The Renault transaxle calls for Castrol TAF-X, which is very difficult to source in the states these days. A tried and true acceptable substitute has been Redline MT90. Again, I know this is an exception, but still something burned into my brain, ha...
  22. Yes, that is what the factory manual calls for, but I've had a hard time finding it in synthetic, I've talked to many mechanics and they all said 75/90 should work just the same…
  23. Bean, thanks for the advice, but since you don't know how it may perform in the Mi16, for now I'm going to stick with the Mobil 1 75/90 synthetic, only since I know how well it works in there. If other Mi16 guys can chime in, I'd think about it. I hope this came out the right way, ha. I'm very gun shy when it comes to new gear fluids, and here's why - the 2nd gen. MR2's and Esprit throughout it's lifetime (using both Citroen and later Renault) gearboxes are not the strengths of these cars. I've dealt with crunchy synchros enough growing up to know that I don't want to ever deal with them again, ha...
  24. Hello gentleman, long time without a check in... Winter has pretty well wrapped up (famous last words?) as of March 1st, so been charging up the batteries of some of the cars over the last week or so. Took the Peugeot out for it's first ride in a few months today. It ran great. Couple things I plan to do with the car this season: - taking Bean's advice and going to have the hood wrapped. Never got around to the peel paint, and for the price of vinyl, going to see how that comes out I think... - purchasing a used valve cover from Brian Holm, going to have it blasted and powdercoated, then install on my car. Using this method to avoid driving downtime (maybe will put my original one on the garage wall...). - change the gear oil back to synthetic (Mobil 1 75/90). I had that in originally and the car shifted great, but when one of the axle seals let go last summer, ended up filling it back up with regular. The synthetic makes the shift quality better... - my car seems to have developed an oil leak from one of the cam seals unfortunately, so my "new" timing belt could very well be compromised in time if I don't sort out the cam seal leak. So, the car will get new cam seals and again a new timing belt... That's it for now, hope you guys are doing well...
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