Mr_rye

Awesome projects! I think my grand dad still has one 405 and I have his 505S wagon (for sale!) These cars handle and ride so well....almost like magic!

underhood

That's right! Selling the car because it doesn't get much love these days due to other projects. The car runs and drives well, starts fast even in cold weather. XN6 gas engine w K-Jet, BA7/5 5 speed manual transmission. new front brakes, new brake master/remaned booster, new Bosch inline fuel pump, new Delphi lift pump in the tank, gas tank cleaned of all rust (from filler neck lol), new plugs/cap/rotor/wires, ign dizzy vacuum advance works, repacked wheel bearings up front, rebuilt starter, fairly fresh oil in the air filter, new tires (as of 2018), grounding trees cleaned, WUR cleaned and functional,fuel dizzy/injectors tested and within spec, factory mag wheels and steel spare, factory jack, trailer hitch, new shifter link. The bad stuff: interior and leather seats are pretty sad, some rust spots under the hood, EGR and cruise control deleted (needs a one piece speedo cable!), DOT headlight assemblies are falling apart, fuel gauge not terribly accurate due to use of a 504 fuel sender, passenger seat heater not working, some dash accessory switches broken, A/C compressor present but seized, lug nut missing front driver side, rear door handles broken/missing, paint job sad...... $2000 OBO I'm located in Central New Mexico/Albuquerque Metro area

The rich running is probably from the control pressure being too low (defective Warm Up Regulator) or the fuel metering vane/plunger being stuck or adjusted wrong. The temperature sensors (I think) tell the ECU when the engine has warmed up enough to read the O2 sensor. The big sensor on the bottom of the radiator near the lower hose is the fan switch. You may have to rig up a fuel pressure meter to see if the fuel pressure is correct according to the engine/ambient temperature. Also a compression test and leak down test may be in order to determine if the headgasket is bad. Hopefully someone more knowledgable that I will chime in, this car seems to have a lot of sensors on the coolant, maybe one of them provides feedback to the frequency valve/ECU but from what I understand the frequency valve, which does a fine trim control on the fuel mixture is controlled by the O2 sensor.

All my rust was coming from the filler neck and clogging the fuel filter. screens were clogged because the car sat for 15 years. I Naval Jellied the crap out of the filler neck and now its clean and rust free. I went to U-Pull this morning and grabbed a fuel float/sender off a '78 diesel 504, I cleaned it up and it seems to work, 400-ish ohms empty, 15 ohms full. and it should fit, but we'll see. If not I'm only out $9.......

Renault Duster spotted in ABQ. Chihuahua plates: Volvo 240? coupe with hardtop also spotted in ABQ:

So I broke my fuel level sender cleaning the rust out of my gas tank in my 85 505 wagon (XN6), and while hunting for a replacement I found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-Boat-Fuel-Sending-Unit-Car-Truck-Water-Level-Gauge-Sensor-240-33ohms-IP67/382502418876?fits=Model%3A505%7CMake%3APeugeot&epid=15020832874&hash=item590eebb9bc:g:ngQAAOSwFrtbMd13 It looks like a good fit but I think the resistance is wrong. What's left of my sender measures around 500 ohms. Does anybody have the resistance spec for the fuel level sender on these? Or recommend where to get an OE replacement?

Fairmont? Hmmmm.......Those particular Fox cars aren't collectable as far as I know...... Here's a really clean 240 spotted in Albuquerque I remember when these were everywhere. I'll see if I can grab a pic of that Citroen SM that may or may not be around town

Yeah I've replaced my fuel filter twice in the last month or so, First time the old accumulator took a crap and dumped a bunch of rust. The second time it was rust again! I probably need to drop the (plastic) tank again and have a look see. Last I had it off the fuel sender and float assemblies weren't rusty but the filler neck sure is. TL;DR When the fuel pump runs excessively loud, check the fuel filter first.

I haven't cracked open the drums yet, on my to do list. though the wheel cylinders did bleed ok. The parking brake works flawlessly FWIW. I also have been meaning to investigate the power mirrors, I think the switch isn't giving them enough juice.

WUR screens were plugged pretty good, vacuum advance does work (verified via timing light, I also made sure the insides of the dizzy weren't seized). The car easily keeps up with traffic now. No real rust, a few small spots. I've still got a few bugs to chase, for one the fuel pump starts getting noisy after 45 minutes of driving, the brake pedal is still a tad squishy despite new rotors/pads/master/booster. I gotta get some weather strip too, I found some generic strip that should work well. The tires are cheapo 205/70R14s, kinda an odd size, but that's what were on it when I got it.

Yeah these pics I took this afternoon. I deleted the EGR, EVAP, and what was left of the cruise control and added an electric radiator fan. This morning I took off the WUR and yanked the screens out of it. The car was running lean and was gutless. much better now. The paint job is pretty ugly but it was no good 15 years ago and the New Mexico sun hasn't helped

I'm trying to figure this out too, but on a BA7/5 transmission. I took out the speed sensor on mine (2 piece cable with cruise control) this morning while removing the clutch master. I am planning on gettin a one piece speedo cable for mine and not bothering with the cruise control. The knee panel is held on with some m6 bolts with 10mm heads, the steering column shroud needs to come off first though. its held on with some philips heads and is kinda tricky to get around the cruise control/turn signal switches

I have the knee panel and steering column shroud out on mine cuz I'm doing the brake master/booster and clutch master. This one is an 85 wagon w/ an xn6 That black relay is the tachyometric relay. I cleaned the contacts inside the relay and on the outside socket as well, there's also that white connector that might need cleaning. I also ran 12V straight to the inline fuel pump when I was resurrecting the car and wasn't ready to deal with the tach relay yet note the red wire running along the luggage rail and down the passenger door ?

When I did my fuel pump I just got the Bosch one off Rock Auto, fits like an OEM pump (because it is!) also get an assortment of metric copper crush washers off Amazon. sometimes you gotta put a little RTV on the crush washers to get em to seal. As for the in-tank fuel pump I went to Autozone, looked up the in-tank pump for a 1982 Volvo 242DL and bought the Delphi one, and an AC Delco TS17 strainer. The fit wasn't exact but it was real close.