NinaYo401

I noticed a grey Two prong plug, with wires leading to the blower, but there appears to be more going on. Almost looks like the o2 sensor was pulling power from the grey connector I have the Haynes book, but the schematic is Greek to me. The legend didn’t even seem to corespond Is one wire of the two prong a ground? I’m thinking white is ground. Or does the fan have a separate ground to body? i need one of those voltage & polarity test probes for this project. im getting nothing from the blower. It’s dark now, but I fiddled with those connections and no change. There was a damp relay nearby 30/20amp, smelled of urine. could bad dash slider control resistors cause no fan? is there a separate rheostat?

I’m not getting anything from my heater blower motor lately. I was constantly blowing, now nothing. My mechanic turned the switch all the way down. It was blowing steady beforehand. I hear the relay click. which fuse is the blower? Any insight? I wiggled around the 20amp fuse the blower was running at one speed regardless of slider position when first acquired. My wiper motor moves very slow, and my horn is not working. I figured the horn was a bad switch, since mine is broken in half, but the light switch aspect works.

Everything is back together and running fairly well. New filter and accumulator installed. My car still smells a little gassy. I haven’t washed it yet. So, I’ll reassess after a wash. Seems to be a little rich on fuel when starting now. I might have slight flooded it the other morning trying to turn it over. hopefully the engine’s “memory” adjusts itself. I feel like new spark plugs would help get it going a little easier. copper core plugs? What gap for plugs on the 2.0L k-jetronic?

My mechanic says the rust isn’t too bad and he sees nothing that wouldn’t pass inspection. He suspects the spare tire’s weight of causing that crack, abd says he could weld a patch easily. He felt the issue in the front was a very simple fix.

I think this rusty line is the fuel return line? It has a rubber line between it and a very rusty accumulator? But there’s a mystery blob of gunk near the accumulator. The banjo bolts going into the accumulator are making me nervous. And the accumulator isn’t cheap. How do the fittings work? Is there a cap nut? I’m assuming crush washers are necessary. What’s behind the blob of gunk?

There are local students who weld for free on Sunday, but it’s sculpting the replacement metal which would be the challenge. I think they do that as well, but underneath a car is unlikely. shoujs I get something welded to the front? I could possibly have that done. as long as I can get pads and rotors working on the back, I’ll fiberglass a patch back there. But the area in the front might benefit from a couple hundred of welding. Might be able to get a couple straps welded in back, to support the fiberglass and hold things together.

This is good news. I’ll try to enjoy it and invest very little. I’ll look for another one. I really like this 2.0L automatic 4 combo. i wonder if the turbo 5-speed for sale in Vermont is equally crusty underneath. im afraid of my corroded fuel return line behind the accumulator. And I’m not replacing that cruddy accumulator for $125 unless it starts leaking. It’s decroded

Is the rust super dangerous? Should I fiberglass patch the issue? Spray some rust converter and enjoy till the struts fail? Is it worth welding the frame rail in the front? Or fiberglass it too?

I’m wondering what if any chance of dealing with the rotten areas of my 505 sedan. i think I heard a crack while driving on my 12 hour trip home, and an fairly certain this passenger rear wheel housing was the casualty. Also suffered some damage in the front when having tires put on, likely caused by the jack. im going to get the opinion on my mechanic tomorrow, and might ask my local custom exhaust and welding person to give me an estimate.

Whats up with that piece of black tape on the valve cover? near the cap. ***I think the Blue circle hose above is leaking at a junction with the gates hose? seems like a crude junction. though the hole seemed clean. If I could find a valve cover gasket, and the new hose or radiator repair totally rids my cooling system of a hiss; I'd paint the valve cover, re-torque head, and check the valve adjustment. Or combine valves adjustment with a timing chain and tensioner job if I ever find those parts along with a timing housing gasket. probably worth waiting to see a leak and hiring a pro. but the valve cover gasket is probably good for a few reuses

Here are highlighted photos of my mysterys. -Red & green are hoses to nowhere, red is pretty large diameter. oil filler hoses cap outlets are capped, and I’m unsure where the associated hoses went. - second red. Is that the air filter housing? Dry or oil? blue? Hose coming out of second red is very greasy.

Another couple questions. im wondering if a new rear brake line would be wise. I’d need to get the rear brake’s bleed screws loose. The fluid in the front most bubble of the master cylinder was the same color as a drip I found in my fuel catch can. mechanic is looking into it on Monday. Possibly running new steel lines. A new rear line might be wise, but budget is very thin. couple more inquiries. Hose to nowhere, and a previously foaming, now the line is damp, mysterious. Please advise

I have a hard time with the search feature in this website. Any chance of a link to you how to? there must be a way to make the lines. The mechanic forms these ends with a hydraulic press, but I’m unsure if he’d have the correct ends. You replaced yours with plastic? There are two fuel lines? Or just one? Is that the parking g brake cable or Supply and return fuel lines? I’m thinking I’ll need to have they replaced. Might need to park the car till then. the rear brakes definitely have pads/shoes. I’m assuming the parking brake consists of shoes in a drum. But the rear brakes share the single line? I’m pretty sure I only counted the 3 lines on the master cylinder. One line must be vapor return. The delivery must be the leaker. Either way, a couple nylon replacement lines might work, if there’s something solid left to connect them to. might get a fuel filter too.

The drip appears from the middle line in the bracket, the first photo. Are the fittings common? Can the lines easily be fabricated? which one is the brake line? Are these disc or drum brakes?

I have a rusty car. It has a leaking hard fuel line. how should I fix it? I’m gojng to talk to my mechanic across the street tomorrow. but it’s keaking and stinks. I figured it was something to do with the pcv system. But maybe the lines were disrupted when I got tires the other day.

Yes, coming soon, and gone now. Thank you. I’ve added a third to the power steering bracket, which I’m reconsidering. Since it creates a kink. but I now have a major smelly fuel leak, on my hard line, between the brake lines, or return fuel lines. I’ll get a new thread going.

Brake booster is installed. I tie wrapped the radiator hose down to the expansion tank bracket.

What’s the condition of the front struts? I may be interested if they aren’t rusty, and someone is willing to pull it apart. I’d be using them in an 86 sedan.

upper and lower rad hoses are coming from in from Australia. I noticed a couple dots of “mayo” under the oil filler cap. Fingers crossed the head/gasket is ok. i noticed a loose wire, about 5’ long going to the negative battery terminal. Connected it to a nearby relay and the electric fan later came on. Added some coolant, heater is working. really nervous of white under oil filler cap. It was minimal, but now I’m spooked

How do you undo the clevis? There isn’t a clear depiction in my manual. Is it intuitive? and the fluid won’t spill out of the master cylinder when the booster is detached? Manual says to use a new gasket. I don’t have a new gasket, and I’ll be installing a used part.

Update: after playing with every I could reach which appeared to be connected to the climate control system, and adjusting incrementally, while listening to the clicking solenoid, I eventually found a fulcrum point on the temperature slider which was like a hair between clicks while adjusting, I went for a drive, took some sharp turns, drove up a hill, while fiddling with the adjuster, then presto HEAT. heres another link to a manual on the 86 climate control system: http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/505_my86_hv.pdf

So my 86 sti 505 has no heat at the moment, or intermittent at best. It was working a few hours into my 12 hour maiden voyage home after purchasing the car. The other day I was enjoying the heat, but was feeling overwhelmed and decided to try my luck by adjusting the temperature control slider. I moved it from the top to about 1/4 down around 85. That was it for having heat. I pulled a big long sensor out of the heater core area, and broke the corner of the air sensor on my dash off while trying to pry up to look in. I guess it just feed ductwork and isn't the same style as the long one? I can't figure out where the heater valve is. I've played with the little silver box near the vent infront of the jetronic computer. I've found a couple threads on the HVAC subject: Peugeot 505 Series II Temperature Control HVAC tutorial Earlier 505 (84) heater valve with photos: where to find heater core valve replacement Where is the Heater control Valve? Can it be manually adjusted? Should i knock on it while trying to manipulate an adjustment? Is there a sensor in the engine compartment? I can hear a click around the ECU. I hear nothing along the lines of a valve being actuated. How much coolant should I have in my expansion bottle? It's freekin' cold here today. Climate control and sunroofs are on my avoid list, and of course this Peugeot has both.

5/16 = 7.938mm, won’t work in lieu of 8mm? What spec coolant does this 86 505 Sti drink? Pretty sure it’s full of GM Dex-cool at the moment. Must the brake fluid reservoir be drained before unbolting and disconnecting from the booster? Can I use dot 4? I'll extract and fill a few times with a large syringe. The gar brakes very well. I'd like to install pads and rotors and lubricate the brakes soon. possibly just explore and clean / dab of lubricant first. I haven't jacked the car up yet. I noticed there are sturdy looking frame rails. should I try to place my jack under there? There appears to be a central jack point in the front? Mine looks to have a little touch of rust, which i should probably address with a wire brush followed with white encapsulation or converter spray. It's too cold for that at the moment. I'd rather not jack the front center, which would block access to the oil pan anyway.

Any chance my brake booster hiss is related to the PCV system? considering my missing hose, should I be worried? I need to trace those hoses, but it’s so cold out. couldn't find an 8mm square. Actually ended up ordering a 5/16 square drain plug socket.

Radiator hoses for Sti? I’m assuming those are tough to find. Radiator upper CH1892 Lower CH1893 upper and lower, and a thermostat. What thermostat? There’s a Chinese made one with a plastic housing. And some loose ones. whats the gasket situation in there?